Why turbo your car and get only 160whp? You can get there NA anyway for 2k. - Page 8 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-18-2008, 06:02 PM   #141
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Get your head flow numbers, then send your cams for a custom regrind at www.elgincams.com Cost ~$350.

He designs them for your system requirements:
- idle quality
- emissions
- head flow #'s
- compression ratio
- fuel octane
- revlimit
- streetability
- type of headers and exhaust
- type of FI
- bore and stroke
- etc

I had my M3 cams done... will see in a few weeks how it turns out.
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Old 01-20-2008, 04:43 PM   #142
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for all that you could have got some Nitrous and hit that mark? and had money left for the bottle to get filled
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Old 01-22-2008, 05:28 AM   #143
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Jason,
I always had this mental block about this: How do you get your cam reground, and then put it back in? Doens't that give you LESS lift? It would seem you'd need more lift to make more power. To get more duration, you would have to take off a lot, and you can't get 2" valve shims, can you?
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:01 AM   #144
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weld + regrind
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:27 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
Jason,
I always had this mental block about this: How do you get your cam reground, and then put it back in? Doens't that give you LESS lift? It would seem you'd need more lift to make more power. To get more duration, you would have to take off a lot, and you can't get 2" valve shims, can you?
They can grind the cam so that the base circle is smaller, say from 40 units large to 36, giving you 4mm more lift. However, it's best to weld and regrind and keep that the same as stock
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:55 AM   #146
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Originally Posted by andygoesfast View Post
for all that you could have got some Nitrous and hit that mark? and had money left for the bottle to get filled
i've read all 8 pages.... and i was thinking that ever since page one.... +1 for beating me to it
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Old 01-22-2008, 12:12 PM   #147
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Exactly, reduce the base circle and run thicker shims. Mazda Motorsports has a huge selection of shims, more than any dealer offers or even has listed in the parts menus. Ask me how I know.

BTW, the cams in my engine are billet, so the base circle was kept stock, but I still had to get some thicker shims to get the clearances correct.
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Old 01-22-2008, 12:17 PM   #148
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ive been following this thread slowly

and i agree on some points, and i laughed hard at others

my personal experience

bought my miata,

paid 550 for used greddy kit
200 for whole front mount setup
so far i spent under 800, and dam

ide love to see a stock na miata with 800 invested catch me
but thats not the point, he said with 2 k
with the other 1200 dollars,, dam.... i wonder what ill get

Last edited by urgaynknowit; 01-22-2008 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 01-22-2008, 04:09 PM   #149
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ok i been watching this thread for awhile.

Now First I don't get that anyone should, but it may be do able...key word may.

if you don't include the motor cost...

you need a 99 to 02 block and head, I don't it could be done with any other head..simple as that.

You need to deck the head and block until you had a 11:1 to 12:1 compression
port the **** out of the head and valves...(best bet would be to try and find valves from another motor that where larger... maybe the FE3 stock valves) this way you could increase the valve size for chearp
then hunt down some ITB from a bike and build your own manifold...

if you really look to try and stay cheap... best bet would be to get some carbed ITB from a bike and switch to a carb setup in the miata(not sure if that would cheaper or cost more)

Last would be to regrind the cams.

Then home build MS.


Now I am not say that would do it, but based on the dyno that M2cup posted it doable, if and only if you have connections and can do alot of work yourself.

The avg joe your looking at atleast 3-5K without the motor.

I think it would be a badass fun car to drive if it was in a 90-92 body, but I still rather have a turbo.


___edit____
Oh.. Foo from CR (works at R-speed) is going to dyno tune is ITB with PnpMS shortly. Its a stock block with stock exhaust, it should give a good idea what ITB and MS can make.. since for an NA the most power would come from ITB, MS, and raising compression.

Yes I know Foo needs to get an exhaust and me maybe getting my cat-back soon.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:05 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
It's 'possible' in my opinion. You would need to do a lot of research and learning on your own. You guys that think it's "impossible" to do for 2K are ignorant. You can't reach your goals paying FM to do it for you, but you could if you did enough research and work yourself. Seriously, I can't believe everyone's jumping all over this guy. If you think cams and headwork is 10 hp your wrong. The headwork is the key. Without making a list of what you'll need, you can figure 40 bucks for a good book on modifying cylinder heads. The average joe dosn't know **** about what makes a head flow well.

Agreed.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:16 PM   #151
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Originally Posted by wildfire0310 View Post
Oh.. Foo from CR (works at R-speed) is going to dyno tune is ITB with PnpMS shortly. Its a stock block with stock exhaust, it should give a good idea what ITB and MS can make.. .
Hmm...maybe 115-118 whp? Who knows...might even break 120s.

As I recall Hectors 1.6 'InfluenzaaJDM' ITBs and their related electricals made about 117-118 whp...and that was flying in guys from china to work on it. LOL....

Most 1.6 'stock' Spec guys I know make more power then the average schmo in the ITB crowd. But hey, whatever blows your skirt up right?
And besides..ITBs sound really cool...and thats worth 2k by itself.



NOT.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:55 PM   #152
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I just want to know an ETA on when this car is going to be done. Then when it is done I want to see how long it lasts. I am glad someone is doing this project. I just wish he did not have to be a jackhole to others that are questioning him. Just build it finaly and prove yourself correct or incorrect.
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:56 PM   #153
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Putting in bigger valves without the right modifications to the bowl shape can result in less flow than stock valve sizes. You also need to do the right unshrouding.

I'm not saying a DIYer can't do it, it just requires knowledge of what shape to target. And without someone who's done it on a flowbench, I think you can't really know.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:39 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Putting in bigger valves without the right modifications to the bowl shape can result in less flow than stock valve sizes. You also need to do the right unshrouding.

I'm not saying a DIYer can't do it, it just requires knowledge of what shape to target. And without someone who's done it on a flowbench, I think you can't really know.
You mean a retarded kid with a dremel couldnt do it?

I dremel 'worked' a set of 440 Mopar heads once...with good results. BUT we did have a template of sorts that was proven for part of it. Some of it was just guesswork. Plus we fucked up one head in the process when my associate opened up the port into a water galley. Oops, too much porting there! LOL...

I am all for DIY but bench racing theories is BS. My .02

And I totally agree with the last line of your post.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:50 PM   #155
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A quick smoothing on the short side radius and in the bowl will offer the best DIY improvement. A good performance valve job offers more gains than most people expect. Seems that most DIYers either just polish things up pretty, or hog the crap out of things. When in doubt, remove less material, and leave some material after the coarse cutting for polishing.
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