ABSURDflow/TSE Time Attack Miata v.2010 upgrades - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-02-2010, 11:39 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I thought the same thing. My oil pressure is teed in with my turbo feed line. I took the line off the pressure gauge and stuck it in a bottle of oil, then cranked it - nothing came out. After doing that for a while, I pulled the filter, and it was dry too. I just q-tip swabbed the oil passage right off the oil pump and it is totally dry.
Just figured I'd throw it out there. Brain and I were going over wiring diagrams and all kinds of **** since I had to solder back in some important connectors. Couldn't find anything. Then started wondering if I missed something simple like a thrust bearing. The we looked closer and saw that the meter fuse controlled just the cluster needles. Checked it and viola. Fixed, and had great OP. Its also possible that your sensor is bad, do you have a mechanical gauge you can put inline if need be?

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Originally Posted by curly View Post
Might want to take the gear cover off and prime it with engine priming grease.

That's one thing I've never care/remembered about during rebuilds. I just start it up and notice it takes 5-10 seconds for pressure. But it always shoots up to 90psi. Sounds like that woulda been a bad risk in your case.
I always pack mine with redline assembly lube. I <3 that stuff.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:04 PM   #22
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Its also possible that your sensor is bad, do you have a mechanical gauge you can put inline if need be?
yeah what he said.

Did you check your cotton swab to see if that was broken too?
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:49 PM   #23
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It cranks and builds oil pressure. Just sorting through all the AEM stuff now. Tried to fire it up and it cranked for a few seconds and then let a BIG backfire off so now I'm going through things in the calibration, seeing what might be off. I'll have some dinner, fiddle with the MAP sensor settings, and have another go this evening.
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Old 02-04-2010, 09:32 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
It cranks and builds oil pressure. Just sorting through all the AEM stuff now. Tried to fire it up and it cranked for a few seconds and then let a BIG backfire off so now I'm going through things in the calibration, seeing what might be off. I'll have some dinner, fiddle with the MAP sensor settings, and have another go this evening.
Can't wait to see the numbers on this thing and then a good track video!
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:00 PM   #25
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Disconnect coils and/or injectors.
Open up crank cam settings screen.
Crank and watch the sync error count and sync yes/no screen
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:46 AM   #26
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Will do.

Jason, I have another question for you regarding map sensors. I'm using the MAP input on one of the middle connectors. I have what I believe is a GM 3-bar, although there are no GM markings on it (picked it up on eBay, so take it for what it's worth). With the sensor wire unplugged, I get .46v as read by the AEM. TurboTim gets the same thing on his AEM so I think the box is fine. At atmospheric pressure, I get 1.08 volts and ~65kpa using the GM 3-bar wizard that correlates to my map sensor. Tim gets ~101kpa and 1.64 volts. If I use a pressure pump and increase pressure so that it read 1.64 volts, I get ~104kpa through the AEM. 5v input confirmed by multimeter. Am I missing something or should I be looking for a new sensor?

While I can tune an ECU, I am not a wiring or setup guru, especially since there is so much new about this setup. (do what I say not what I do - change one thing at a time.) I first hooked the GM sensor to 12v - could this have fried it? I am going to try to find a real GM sensor to test, but they aren't the kind of thing people just have laying around.

The AEM gets an RPM reading while cranking, which is a good sign. Looks like Sears Point is going to rain and my car isn't waterproof, but I might still go up since there's a dyno on-site I can use if it does rain. Hoping I can maybe get this sorted out and drive it around a little to put some break-in miles on the motor tomorrow.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:26 AM   #27
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I'm looking forward to seeing your car again in action. Should be interesting. See you soon, either for MC or [email protected]
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:29 PM   #28
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"I first hooked the GM sensor to 12v - could this have fried it?"
I don't know.

" At atmospheric pressure, I get 1.08 volts"
Sound like a sensor that's > 3bar, if it exists. Do a search for it.

"The AEM gets an RPM reading while cranking"
If you are using a 99+ style crank trigger wheel the AEM cannot read RPM properly below around 450 RPM. It relies on the 10*BTDC tooth to fire the coils.

Does the SYNC STATUS variable go from NO to YES afer a couple of cranks?

Be warned that if you are >= 20* (crank degrees) retarded on the intake cam, the AEM won't be able to sync.
If the cam is advanced even 1 tooth, it will lose sync when you go to full advance on the VVT.
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Disconnect coils and/or injectors.
Open up crank cam settings screen.
Crank and watch the sync error count and sync yes/no screen
I get sync, not super quick but I do get it. This is with VVT disconnected. There are timing errors, it rises by 1-2 every second. Is that something I need to deal with?
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:01 PM   #30
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Since electronics are goddamn boring, here's some car ****. First bit of my E85 fuel system conversion, full stainless steel big-bore fuel rail. .500" ID.

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Going to pair this with steel fittings and Aeroquip PTFE lines in the engine bay, and either anodized aluminum or SS fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay. Haven't worked out what the filter or pump setup is going to be - I'd like to run a Bosch 044 either in the tank or in the line, with a feeder pump in the tank. I'm not planning on doing a surge tank, but that could change. Injectors will be upgrade from the RC750s I have now to a set of Bosch 1000cc saturated injectors - The RCs aren't E85 rated and I'm not sure they will feed 400whp on E85 at their max of 65-70psi.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:09 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I get sync, not super quick but I do get it. This is with VVT disconnected. There are timing errors, it rises by 1-2 every second. Is that something I need to deal with?
It is normal if it stops incrementing.
I can't recall if it is normal that it keeps incrementing while cranking.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:41 PM   #32
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Cool.

I'm gambling that the MAP sensor is dead. Going to just order a new one.
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:10 PM   #33
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So there is no issue using a 99 oil pump w/ the BE gears on the 02 motor?

Correct me if I am wrong, all the previous BE run of gears fit all the pre-01 oil pumps correct? (and after like 92?) I think I still have a set sitting around.

Last edited by miatamania; 02-05-2010 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:51 PM   #34
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So there is no issue using a 99 oil pump w/ the BE gears on the 02 head?
my oil pump goes in the block, not sure about yours though.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:33 PM   #35
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Quote:
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my oil pump goes in the block, not sure about yours though.
Doh. Only semantics. (yes...I know it goes in the block :P)


Also need to learn to read.

Last edited by miatamania; 02-07-2010 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:13 AM   #36
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If you won't go over 22 psi, you may wanna consider the $10 or so, Motorola MAP sensor from Digikey.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:41 AM   #37
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We were seeing ~23psi at Calspeed and that's a number I'd like to get back to with E85. I definitely want 300kpa of headroom. Thanks, though. Hopefully a fresh sensor solves the issue and I can move on to break-in and tuning.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:47 AM   #38
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This thread is gay!

Waiting for more! Car **** appreciated.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:51 AM   #39
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dynoed today. Not thrilled, not disappointed with the results. 259whp, 241wtq at ~12psi. Approximately 20 miles on the motor. Going to get a few days on it, get a quality intercooler into it, and head back for more boost.

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Shitty spool (vvt is unplugged, defaults to full retard, so good top end but **** spool):

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Here's today's numbers compared with the last motor's numbers on the same dyno (14psi, BP4W head vs 12psi, VVT head):
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Big difference in spool. The car hits noticeably later and slower. This shouldn't be a huge deal, but it will hurt driveability in the short term. My next project is to play with the VVT voltages and work out a table to start with - Jason has done a bunch of work with the solenoid, seeing exactly what the solenoid wants to see in order to produce x result. I just need to sit down with the car in the garage and make it do what I want.

Car also ran less timing than before, by around 5 degrees through the torque peak. I added 2 degrees across the board after my "final" pull and gained nothing.

I need to get this bullshit intake manifold off the car, too. The fuel map drops like a rock past 5000rpm. I bet the car would make 290-300whp with an intake manifold at 12psi.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:50 PM   #40
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Awesome.

I think there will be growing market too for a 'bandaid' that allowed controll of the VVT somehow. Just a thought.

One other thing to throw in: Excuse the ignorance, but can you see lifters and all if you pull the old 710 cap on a Miata? If so, I would just have someone crank the motor will the plugs pulled untill you see oil flying around in there. I trust that more than a guage anyday for that type of situation. Just be sure to have gogles on.
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