ABSURDflow/TSE Time Attack Miata v.2010 upgrades
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At atmospheric pressure, I get 1.08 volts and ~65kpa using the GM 3-bar wizard that correlates to my map sensor. Tim gets ~101kpa and 1.64 volts. If I use a pressure pump and increase pressure so that it read 1.64 volts, I get ~104kpa through the AEM. 5v input confirmed by multimeter. Am I missing something or should I be looking for a new sensor?
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dynoed today. Not thrilled, not disappointed with the results. 259whp, 241wtq at ~12psi.
Shitty spool (vvt is unplugged, defaults to full retard, so good top end but **** spool):
Big difference in spool. The car hits noticeably later and slower. This shouldn't be a huge deal, but it will hurt driveability in the short term. My next project is to play with the VVT voltages and work out a table to start with - Jason has done a bunch of work with the solenoid, seeing exactly what the solenoid wants to see in order to produce x result. I just need to sit down with the car in the garage and make it do what I want.
Car also ran less timing than before, by around 5 degrees through the torque peak. I added 2 degrees across the board after my "final" pull and gained nothing.
I need to get this bullshit intake manifold off the car, too. The fuel map drops like a rock past 5000rpm. I bet the car would make 290-300whp with an intake manifold at 12psi.
Shitty spool (vvt is unplugged, defaults to full retard, so good top end but **** spool):
Big difference in spool. The car hits noticeably later and slower. This shouldn't be a huge deal, but it will hurt driveability in the short term. My next project is to play with the VVT voltages and work out a table to start with - Jason has done a bunch of work with the solenoid, seeing exactly what the solenoid wants to see in order to produce x result. I just need to sit down with the car in the garage and make it do what I want.
Car also ran less timing than before, by around 5 degrees through the torque peak. I added 2 degrees across the board after my "final" pull and gained nothing.
I need to get this bullshit intake manifold off the car, too. The fuel map drops like a rock past 5000rpm. I bet the car would make 290-300whp with an intake manifold at 12psi.
Oh, in case you didn't know, atmospheric pressure is about 100kpa.
EDIT: Sooo are you going to go with a honda grafted intake manifold?
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From: Fake Virginia
You may have already solved this w/ the new sensor on order, but atmospheric pressure should be at or around 100kpa. I only know this from tuning my N/A K series motor, andd at WOT, it should be close to 100 kpa-- of course depending on altitude and all that other stuff.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
If you need to race the car before you get the variable closed loop VVT figured out with the AEM EMS, you can do what Y8S did with his hydra and just go full "on" below 5xxx rpm (?) using one of the simple rpm switches built into the AEM. You'd get his "have cake and eat it too" signature graph. Not as trick as a real VVT but you should get much better spool and still have that top end.
Oh, in case you didn't know, atmospheric pressure is about 100kpa.
EDIT: Sooo are you going to go with a honda grafted intake manifold?
Oh, in case you didn't know, atmospheric pressure is about 100kpa.
EDIT: Sooo are you going to go with a honda grafted intake manifold?
To start, probably. Looking at the Skunk2 piece. Eventually I want more of your hot sculpted product in my life, but the B18 mani will give us a good starting point for comparisons.
Last edited by Savington; Feb 18, 2010 at 01:57 PM.
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Sadly, RPM switches are pretty well proven at this point to **** up VVT heads. The switchover snaps the cam clockwise and momentarily increases the RPM of the intake cam well, well beyond the intended range of the valvetrain. I think Bill Schenker (sp?) went through 3 heads last year in his CSP car using an RPM switch - he said the intake valve seats were all destroyed on each one. I wish it were that easy........
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From: Fake Virginia
what's your oil pressure at 5000 rpm?
i wonder if there's a way to restrict the oil flow through the spool valve--like only opening it part way (decreased orafice) to slow down the opening...
i wonder if there's a way to restrict the oil flow through the spool valve--like only opening it part way (decreased orafice) to slow down the opening...
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We do have 2 spintrons here...hmmmm
It's easier to have the AEM gurus determine an electronic/programming solution.
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I have a suggested fix for those using an RPM switch:
Those using RPM switches for VVT - MX-5 Miata Forum
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Sadly, RPM switches are pretty well proven at this point to **** up VVT heads. The switchover snaps the cam clockwise and momentarily increases the RPM of the intake cam well, well beyond the intended range of the valvetrain. I think Bill Schenker (sp?) went through 3 heads last year in his CSP car using an RPM switch - he said the intake valve seats were all destroyed on each one. I wish it were that easy. Julien and Jason are playing with the AEM cam/crank sensors to see what will work and I'll do whatever they come up with.
To start, probably. Looking at the Skunk2 piece. Eventually I want more of your hot sculpted product in my life, but the B18 mani will give us a good starting point for comparisons.
To start, probably. Looking at the Skunk2 piece. Eventually I want more of your hot sculpted product in my life, but the B18 mani will give us a good starting point for comparisons.
Jason beat me to posting his link.
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Step 1 in getting the AEM to do VVT is to get it to READ the cam phase.
Go to the VVT setup screen and play with it.
Next, check that going full advance on the cam makes your phase readout show an additional 47*.
Next is to set up the feedback parameters and targets.
Go to the VVT setup screen and play with it.
Next, check that going full advance on the cam makes your phase readout show an additional 47*.
Next is to set up the feedback parameters and targets.
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Thread Starter
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
Jason, J_Man mentioned you guys are going to try a non-OEM wheel to make the OEM cam sensor work - is that just for fun or does full advance on the VVT make the sensors lose sync?
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From: Fake Virginia
full advance doesn't make it lose sync... it didn't with the hydra or adaptronic.
incidentally, if you find this useful, the adaptronic logs the current VVT angle.
incidentally, if you find this useful, the adaptronic logs the current VVT angle.
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I started a new thread on this discussion:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t44080/
Last edited by JasonC SBB; Feb 19, 2010 at 11:59 AM.
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Thread Starter
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
Just scored a used 600hp Precision core on eBay. Cleared for high boost once again. 
I am going to give the motor another full day at 12psi to continue break-in, and pending resolution/maintenance of the recent blowby issue, turn it back up to the ~18psi range. Maybe if the heavens are kind, I'll bring an intake manifold and ~350whp to Laguna in April.
I am going to give the motor another full day at 12psi to continue break-in, and pending resolution/maintenance of the recent blowby issue, turn it back up to the ~18psi range. Maybe if the heavens are kind, I'll bring an intake manifold and ~350whp to Laguna in April.
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Thread Starter
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
Update time, kiddies.
Apparently the 350hp core heatsoaks, so I found a 600hp core.
mack daddy:
Need to reduct the front end, high-dollar IC does not mean it will properly cool the car through it. Radiator needs some fresh air.
Installed and running on OEM 2002 sensors, controlling VVT. 
Done, perfect. I'll want more speed eventually but that will be accomplished by raising the rev limiter.
Done, pretty much perfect. The closed loop settings need a small amount of work but I have control. I'll take this to the dyno in about a week for concrete results - mostly in the midrange and low end.
Gospeed is a baller, my B18 mani showed up yesterday.
Currently in the process of fabbing it up. Biggest worry is making sure the warpage of the flange is minimal so I don't have to take .080" off of it afterwards. Also deleting the VTCS butterflies, obviously.
more later this year, focusing on other things first.
Hoping to make this switch soon. 100 octane is expensive and E85 makes more power safely anyway. If it's really good, I will sell my water injection system which will save ~20lbs of curb weight.
Headed to the dyno next week with the IM and VVT running. Car made 310whp at 18psi last time, so I'd like to think 340whp at 18psi this time around won't be a big deal.
SO
Here's the plans for 2010:
-Precision 350hp intercooler Precision Turbo Intercoolers from HorsepowerFreaks
The current core I am using is an eBay piece, 22x6x2.5 core. Great for street use, probably not going to cut it for 350-400whp and track duty. I want an efficient core, and I think that's my best bet.
Here's the plans for 2010:
-Precision 350hp intercooler Precision Turbo Intercoolers from HorsepowerFreaks
The current core I am using is an eBay piece, 22x6x2.5 core. Great for street use, probably not going to cut it for 350-400whp and track duty. I want an efficient core, and I think that's my best bet.
mack daddy:
Need to reduct the front end, high-dollar IC does not mean it will properly cool the car through it. Radiator needs some fresh air.
-AEM EMS. The MSPNP wasn't doing anything wrong, but it wasn't doing some things at all. I want individual cylinder trims, knock sensing, onboard datalogging, VVT control, and real closed-loop boost control. AEM does all of that, and with the Series 1 ECUs on closeout right now they are a smoking deal. I paid about $1100 for mine.
-3.909 gears. The 4.10s were just a bit short, but the 3.63s were only going to work for ACS and I don't go there enough to justify sacrificing all the other tracks. I just drove a 6-speed/3.909 combo at Buttonwillow and it's absolutely perfect.
-VVT. It's worth some power, the only question is where. Advance down low, retard up high is just the beginning here, I think. I want to play with some cams and see if I can get away with a seriously aggressive high-duration intake cam with the VVT.
-Intake manifold. Going to start out with the Edelbrock VictorX manifold and their 75mm throttle body as a baseline. Tim wants to do one in the spring, so we are going to start with that and see where I want to improve it. I'd like to play with a dual-chamber design but we'll see where we end up.
Currently in the process of fabbing it up. Biggest worry is making sure the warpage of the flange is minimal so I don't have to take .080" off of it afterwards. Also deleting the VTCS butterflies, obviously.
-Headwork. This is the one thing I've never played with in this car. In order to get the power I want, it's not going to be avoidable. This is a subject I'm quickly discovering to be kind of a black art. I want to get exotic with some of the stuff. Inconel exhaust valves and coatings on the chambers/valves for extended high-load pulls. It's going to start with a valve job and some P&P and we'll see where we end up.
-E85. This is still a few months off, since I'm going to have to essentially rebuild the fuel system, but the benefits can't be ignored. Lower EGTs, lower cylinder temps, increased detonation resistance, and low cost make it a good choice for high-boost track work. I'll have a ~95 octane map for fun track days since I expect to use ~7-8 gallons of E85 per 25 minute session.
Headed to the dyno next week with the IM and VVT running. Car made 310whp at 18psi last time, so I'd like to think 340whp at 18psi this time around won't be a big deal.
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