99-00, 01-05 and MSM Megasquirt MS2 DIYPNP "Enhanced" group buy
10-07-2010, 08:31 PM
#301
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Join Date: May 2010
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I'm 6th and you 15th, I think you are in the second batch after mine. Craigo and guitarjon are 7th and 8th, then from 9th to 13th and after that 14th to 19th, where are you listed.
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10-08-2010, 07:08 AM
#304
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Manchester, UK
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Nice work Rev, those boards look epic!
Have you a rough date for shipping out Mine, Taimans and Guitarjons? No rush, I just want to set aside a whole weekend for pulling the MS-1 and installing the MS-2 and tuning the engine up.
Have you a rough date for shipping out Mine, Taimans and Guitarjons? No rush, I just want to set aside a whole weekend for pulling the MS-1 and installing the MS-2 and tuning the engine up.
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10-08-2010, 07:46 PM
#306
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Another update:
- The jumper system to control the fans (for people with COPS) is ready and works great! You have 6 jumpers: 4 of them control the main fan and the two other control the condenser fan. Each of the 4 jumpers add 1,2,3,4 degrees Celsius to a base temp of 90C. So you can set the main fan to turn ON from between 91C and 100C. The fan turns off once the temp goes 4 degrees lower than the ON temp. So if your ON temp is 95, it will turn off at 91. If you don't set any jumper, the fan won't turn on at all - the default for people without COPS. If you don't set any of the condenser fan jumpers (2 jumpers), the condenser fan will turn on at the same temperature as the main fan. These two jumpers add 2 and 3 degrees. So the condenser fan can turn on at 0,2,3 or 5 degrees after the main fan.
- The MIL overheating warning system turns 5 degrees after the condenser fan and escalates the warning level every 5 degrees. So if your condenser fan turns on at say 105C, the MIL will start blinking slowly at 110C, rapidly at 115C and will become steady on at 120C (by which time the dummy stock coolant gauge has already begun moving towards the H indication). To prevent the MIL from harassing you all the time, it will not turn on before 105C, no matter how low your fans are set.
- Another jumper controls whether you want the idle valve control to be simple or advanced (based on rpm, vehicle speed, brake, clutch and shift lever position)
- Another jumper is available for custom on/off control of something (suggest something!)
- Unfortunately, I have discovered a fault with the DIYPNP knock circuit: it always indicated that there is knock. I contacted DIYAutoTune and they pinpointed the problem and suggested a fix the next day. This is a hardware fix, so I will have to repair the 5 units I have ready and apply the fix to the newer units I will be building from now on. I still haven't tested the fix on my car, which is something that I definitely want to do.
I've been working non-stop from 10am (its now 02:40am, so that means more than 16hrs straight) and I still have things to check (plus a couple of boards to integrate on Staffah's and 99mx5's ECUs), so shipping tomorrow probably won't happen. Unless I find any more setbacks, shipping is guaranteed on Monday.
I apologize for the delay, shipping a solid product can be a bitch.
Dimitris
- The jumper system to control the fans (for people with COPS) is ready and works great! You have 6 jumpers: 4 of them control the main fan and the two other control the condenser fan. Each of the 4 jumpers add 1,2,3,4 degrees Celsius to a base temp of 90C. So you can set the main fan to turn ON from between 91C and 100C. The fan turns off once the temp goes 4 degrees lower than the ON temp. So if your ON temp is 95, it will turn off at 91. If you don't set any jumper, the fan won't turn on at all - the default for people without COPS. If you don't set any of the condenser fan jumpers (2 jumpers), the condenser fan will turn on at the same temperature as the main fan. These two jumpers add 2 and 3 degrees. So the condenser fan can turn on at 0,2,3 or 5 degrees after the main fan.
- The MIL overheating warning system turns 5 degrees after the condenser fan and escalates the warning level every 5 degrees. So if your condenser fan turns on at say 105C, the MIL will start blinking slowly at 110C, rapidly at 115C and will become steady on at 120C (by which time the dummy stock coolant gauge has already begun moving towards the H indication). To prevent the MIL from harassing you all the time, it will not turn on before 105C, no matter how low your fans are set.
- Another jumper controls whether you want the idle valve control to be simple or advanced (based on rpm, vehicle speed, brake, clutch and shift lever position)
- Another jumper is available for custom on/off control of something (suggest something!)
- Unfortunately, I have discovered a fault with the DIYPNP knock circuit: it always indicated that there is knock. I contacted DIYAutoTune and they pinpointed the problem and suggested a fix the next day. This is a hardware fix, so I will have to repair the 5 units I have ready and apply the fix to the newer units I will be building from now on. I still haven't tested the fix on my car, which is something that I definitely want to do.
I've been working non-stop from 10am (its now 02:40am, so that means more than 16hrs straight) and I still have things to check (plus a couple of boards to integrate on Staffah's and 99mx5's ECUs), so shipping tomorrow probably won't happen. Unless I find any more setbacks, shipping is guaranteed on Monday.
I apologize for the delay, shipping a solid product can be a bitch.
Dimitris
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10-09-2010, 04:53 AM
#310
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 272
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I agree - great job Dimitris.
I can only echo what has already been said, just take your time. I'm sure no one is a huge rush for their unit. They all sound superbly built btw and the custom circuits are brilliant.
I can only echo what has already been said, just take your time. I'm sure no one is a huge rush for their unit. They all sound superbly built btw and the custom circuits are brilliant.
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10-10-2010, 07:03 PM
#311
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Update:
All first 5 units are completely built. Currently testing them THOROUGHLY.
I fine tuned the firmware a little more, so besides these features I mentioned in another thread:
1) When you start the car, if you have the A/C system engaged, the A/C will not kick in immediately, it will wait 6 seconds and then engage. On most of my maps, I have the crank-to-run delay set to 4 or 5 seconds, so 6 seconds will give the engine a bit of time to stabilize the idle before it gets hit by the A/C. If the idle dips too much for any reason, the A/C gets cut off and won't start again for another 6 seconds to avoid oscillations.
2) Same goes for the cooling fans. If you give it a warm (hot!) start and the fans need to kick in, they won't for the first 5 seconds. They also don't work unless the engine is running (at least 500rpm).
I also added these:
3) Stepping on the throttle (~90%) disables the A/C and doesn't restore it until you back off the throttle a little (85%) AND 2 seconds pass by. So if you are throttle happy, you won't break your A/C.
4) If the RPMs dip, the A/C will disengage for 6 seconds before coming back to life. If you go over 5500rpm, it will also disenage and won't switch on again unless you come down to 5100rpm AND 2 seconds lapse.
Just trying to send out the best deal possible.
All first 5 units are completely built. Currently testing them THOROUGHLY.
I fine tuned the firmware a little more, so besides these features I mentioned in another thread:
1) When you start the car, if you have the A/C system engaged, the A/C will not kick in immediately, it will wait 6 seconds and then engage. On most of my maps, I have the crank-to-run delay set to 4 or 5 seconds, so 6 seconds will give the engine a bit of time to stabilize the idle before it gets hit by the A/C. If the idle dips too much for any reason, the A/C gets cut off and won't start again for another 6 seconds to avoid oscillations.
2) Same goes for the cooling fans. If you give it a warm (hot!) start and the fans need to kick in, they won't for the first 5 seconds. They also don't work unless the engine is running (at least 500rpm).
I also added these:
3) Stepping on the throttle (~90%) disables the A/C and doesn't restore it until you back off the throttle a little (85%) AND 2 seconds pass by. So if you are throttle happy, you won't break your A/C.
4) If the RPMs dip, the A/C will disengage for 6 seconds before coming back to life. If you go over 5500rpm, it will also disenage and won't switch on again unless you come down to 5100rpm AND 2 seconds lapse.
Just trying to send out the best deal possible.
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10-10-2010, 07:53 PM
#314
You are the man Dimitris. I'm sure this will get your name out there in a major way like TurboTim and Artech
The most important thing about modifying cars is quality. Most of us are willing to wait for a top notch product.
The most important thing about modifying cars is quality. Most of us are willing to wait for a top notch product.
0
10-11-2010, 12:22 AM
#316
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 30
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The only thing that rest on these MS units is to make coffe in the morning, hehe.
Great job Reverant.
Great job Reverant.
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10-11-2010, 06:07 PM
#319
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Update
All units check out OK. I made a 35-point check list, I tested each unit against the list and everything tested ok (eventually, I found some problems and corrected them). I took one of the 99-00 units to the shop today (we have a 2000 1.6 turbo waiting for a Megasquirt too!) and tried one of the ECUs on the car: works perfectly, just like on the stim.
One of the units is for an MSM, I tried it on my car today and it works perfectly except for the A/C which doesn't engage, I'll try to fix that tomorrow, and as soon as it's OK, I'm going to send out the units.
Dimitris
All units check out OK. I made a 35-point check list, I tested each unit against the list and everything tested ok (eventually, I found some problems and corrected them). I took one of the 99-00 units to the shop today (we have a 2000 1.6 turbo waiting for a Megasquirt too!) and tried one of the ECUs on the car: works perfectly, just like on the stim.
One of the units is for an MSM, I tried it on my car today and it works perfectly except for the A/C which doesn't engage, I'll try to fix that tomorrow, and as soon as it's OK, I'm going to send out the units.
Dimitris
0
10-12-2010, 04:15 AM
#320
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 272
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Sounds good to me 
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