EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning) - Page 64 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 07-20-2012, 06:50 PM   #1261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Perfect:
Sorry bud. Not perfect. The issues are with the firesleeve:
1. Should be a stainless steel clamp securing the end of the firesleeve (looks like a zip tie in your picture!);
2. The frayed fiberglass at the cut end of the firesleeve should be finished with Red RTV to prevent wicking of combustibles into the firesleeve; and
3. You need a refill.

I only mention this because I care.

BTW, download approved aircraft repair and alteration practices here (FAA AC 43-13-1B):

AC 43.13-1B CHG 1 [Large AC. This includes Change 1.] Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair

Safety wiring covered in Chapter 7 Section 7.

7 minute firesleeving video here: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:33 AM   #1262
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We use this ones and had never trouble with loosening Bolts or Nuts.
I.L. Motorsport - MX-5 Tuning, Zubehr und Ersatzteile
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:55 AM   #1263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandro View Post
We use this ones and had never trouble with loosening Bolts or Nuts.
I.L. Motorsport - MX-5 Tuning, Zubehr und Ersatzteile
I'm not convinced given the heat cycling that any hardware which uses deformation will last in the long term (on a track car).

Grade8 hardware isn't terrible expensive and it absolutely will not move. Why seek other options when you can buy perfection?

-Zach
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:38 PM   #1264
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That's a nice Inconel Sicherungsmutter:

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Old 07-26-2012, 03:27 PM   #1265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
That's a nice Inconel Sicherungsmutter:

...but will it fit on a T28 turbine housing?
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:28 PM   #1266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Sorry bud. Not perfect. The issues are with the firesleeve:
1. Should be a stainless steel clamp securing the end of the firesleeve (looks like a zip tie in your picture!);
2. The frayed fiberglass at the cut end of the firesleeve should be finished with Red RTV to prevent wicking of combustibles into the firesleeve; and
3. You need a refill.

I only mention this because I care.

BTW, download approved aircraft repair and alteration practices here (FAA AC 43-13-1B):

AC 43.13-1B CHG 1 [Large AC. This includes Change 1.] Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair

Safety wiring covered in Chapter 7 Section 7.

7 minute firesleeving video here: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
I heeded your advice on the firesleeve from another thread months ago and wrapped them in silicone tape, the zip-tie was always temporary. I've also ordered tighter fitting stuff so it's even better now. Advice like yours is always appreciated.
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:15 AM   #1267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
...but will it fit on a T28 turbine housing?
The M10 Inc Nut has 12mm height, 17mm width at the collar and 14mm wrench size.

The M8 Inc Nut has 11mm height, 15mm width at the collar and 12mm wrench size.

A normal M10 copper nut (Thermag-Nut) without collar has 10,5 height and 15mm width.

I used it on a T3, GT2860RS and the IL Turbo housing. T3 no problem, GT2860RS and IL Turbo you have to dremel the housing a bit for the two nuts on the WG-Side of the housing. The nut fits without dremel but you need some space to tighten it.

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Last edited by Sandro; 07-30-2012 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:04 AM   #1268
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Stupid question- does anything change if you use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and nut? I saw a few pics of setups like that many pages back, but no info on how well they hold up.

Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:18 AM   #1269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crono36 View Post
Stupid question- does anything change if you use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and nut? I saw a few pics of setups like that many pages back, but no info on how well they hold up.

Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?
They would stretch the same as studs, and with most manifolds out there you can not fit a nut/bolt.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:07 PM   #1270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crono36 View Post
Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?
Actually no the main issue is not studs/nuts backing out. Its the studs stretching.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:55 PM   #1271
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Only difference is I'd prefer nuts/bolts (inconel of course) to studs, as there wouldn't be any potential damaging of the threads. If you do, it's a $20(?) bolt, instead of fixing or replacing a $350+ manifold.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:27 PM   #1272
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that's also something I've considered. I'm checking to see how much bolts would be, but I don't know how hard it will be to find something the right size/alloy. I'd pick up the TSE kit but I don't trust my own ability to tap the manifold. If it comes to it I'll take it somewhere to have it done, lol.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:29 PM   #1273
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found these on ebay:

AIRCRAFT ENGINE BOLT / INCO 718 / 3036T34P01 2T498 / INCONEL 718 / HIGH TEMP | eBay

Looks to be approximately the right size. No guarantee of it actually being inconel though, and I don't know if 718 is the proper grade. For $20 might be worth trying?
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:51 AM   #1274
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not if its the wrong size. contact the seller first
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:50 PM   #1275
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Ok. I read this entire thread. I saw welding mentioned a few times, but it was usually welding a nut to a bolt or a bolt to the manifold.

Can you weld the turbo and manifold together around the flanges? I have an S4 manifold and 2554 turbo with a support brace on the downpipe. In this case the turbo is hanging beneath the manifold.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:37 PM   #1276
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Did you all know that you can buy Resbond through McMaster Carr?


It's part Number 7604A56

McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3414/=jkb14o
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:22 PM   #1277
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From: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...d-turbo-70294/

I removed the turbo this afternoon and only one stud (lower front) is backed out.
Talked to a race shop and discusses that we're going to re-assemble the studs and then drill from the manifold into the stud (2-3mm) and then insert a pin that we will tack weld. This will mechanically lock the studs in and keep them from removing themselves.

This is much like the stage8 nuts: mechanical lock to keep them from undoing themselves.

Feedback?
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:34 PM   #1278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
So, one stud failed - well, the time-sert failed and that allowed the stud to move out. The other three are fine and were still tights.

I'm going to remove the time-sert and insert a new one, reseat the studs, drill through manifold and studs and insert dowel pins to lock them in place.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:47 PM   #1279
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I didn't see this posted in the thread, but I saw them mentioned. Here are the 300zx turbo studs. I believe that these are 8mm and inconel. Nissan OEM 300ZX Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Stud - Nissan performance parts
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:53 PM   #1280
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they look like Ace Hardware specials.
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