Sorry bud. Not perfect. The issues are with the firesleeve:
1. Should be a stainless steel clamp securing the end of the firesleeve (looks like a zip tie in your picture!);
2. The frayed fiberglass at the cut end of the firesleeve should be finished with Red RTV to prevent wicking of combustibles into the firesleeve; and
3. You need a refill.

I only mention this because I care.

BTW, download approved aircraft repair and alteration practices here (FAA AC 43-13-1B):

AC 43.13-1B CHG 1 [Large AC. This includes Change 1.] Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair

Safety wiring covered in Chapter 7 Section 7.

7 minute firesleeving video here: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos

 

We use this ones and had never trouble with loosening Bolts or Nuts.
I.L. Motorsport - MX-5 Tuning, Zubehr und Ersatzteile

 

I'm not convinced given the heat cycling that any hardware which uses deformation will last in the long term (on a track car).

Grade8 hardware isn't terrible expensive and it absolutely will not move. Why seek other options when you can buy perfection?

-Zach

 

That's a nice Inconel Sicherungsmutter:

 

...but will it fit on a T28 turbine housing?

 

I heeded your advice on the firesleeve from another thread months ago and wrapped them in silicone tape, the zip-tie was always temporary. I've also ordered tighter fitting stuff so it's even better now. Advice like yours is always appreciated.

 

The M10 Inc Nut has 12mm height, 17mm width at the collar and 14mm wrench size.

The M8 Inc Nut has 11mm height, 15mm width at the collar and 12mm wrench size.

A normal M10 copper nut (Thermag-Nut) without collar has 10,5 height and 15mm width.

I used it on a T3, GT2860RS and the IL Turbo housing. T3 no problem, GT2860RS and IL Turbo you have to dremel the housing a bit for the two nuts on the WG-Side of the housing. The nut fits without dremel but you need some space to tighten it.

 

Stupid question- does anything change if you use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and nut? I saw a few pics of setups like that many pages back, but no info on how well they hold up.

Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?

 

They would stretch the same as studs, and with most manifolds out there you can not fit a nut/bolt.

 

Actually no the main issue is not studs/nuts backing out. Its the studs stretching.

 

Only difference is I'd prefer nuts/bolts (inconel of course) to studs, as there wouldn't be any potential damaging of the threads. If you do, it's a $20(?) bolt, instead of fixing or replacing a $350+ manifold.

 

that's also something I've considered. I'm checking to see how much bolts would be, but I don't know how hard it will be to find something the right size/alloy. I'd pick up the TSE kit but I don't trust my own ability to tap the manifold. If it comes to it I'll take it somewhere to have it done, lol.

 

found these on ebay:

AIRCRAFT ENGINE BOLT / INCO 718 / 3036T34P01 2T498 / INCONEL 718 / HIGH TEMP | eBay

Looks to be approximately the right size. No guarantee of it actually being inconel though, and I don't know if 718 is the proper grade. For $20 might be worth trying?

 

not if its the wrong size. contact the seller first

 

Ok. I read this entire thread. I saw welding mentioned a few times, but it was usually welding a nut to a bolt or a bolt to the manifold.

Can you weld the turbo and manifold together around the flanges? I have an S4 manifold and 2554 turbo with a support brace on the downpipe. In this case the turbo is hanging beneath the manifold.

 

Did you all know that you can buy Resbond through McMaster Carr?


It's part Number 7604A56

McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3414/=jkb14o

 

From: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...d-turbo-70294/

I removed the turbo this afternoon and only one stud (lower front) is backed out.
Talked to a race shop and discusses that we're going to re-assemble the studs and then drill from the manifold into the stud (2-3mm) and then insert a pin that we will tack weld. This will mechanically lock the studs in and keep them from removing themselves.

This is much like the stage8 nuts: mechanical lock to keep them from undoing themselves.

Feedback?

 

So, one stud failed - well, the time-sert failed and that allowed the stud to move out. The other three are fine and were still tights.

I'm going to remove the time-sert and insert a new one, reseat the studs, drill through manifold and studs and insert dowel pins to lock them in place.

 

I didn't see this posted in the thread, but I saw them mentioned. Here are the 300zx turbo studs. I believe that these are 8mm and inconel. Nissan OEM 300ZX Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Stud - Nissan performance parts

 

they look like Ace Hardware specials.