Orly? Well that could change my future plans(pending NASA ruling next year).


That +1 could be used to swap to a square-top manifold for a few more peak HP.

 

Honestly, I'd not touch anything in the engine if you're building the car now. Get the chassis set up with a stock sway setup and wait to see what the 2017 rule book has.

 

This is probably the most sound advice for anyone building up a car right now.

 

Yep

 

That's what I'm doing!

 

Is there a list of PT/TT track records anywhere?

 

NASA Time Trial

They're listed within the regions. Some records might not be updated recently, depends on the region I suppose.

 

There is no single spot for all NASA track records but individual regions keep track of records on their own.

For example, you can see NASA Great Lakes records here:

NASA Great Lakes - National Auto Sport Association

 

My old classing vs. new classing after switching to e85. I made a little more power than I wanted but oh well.

Going off of the changes made to Appendix C to make these relevant to this year.

PTE Base: 128whp at 2395lbs (18.71lbs/hp)

PTE* Base: 136whp at 2430lbs (17.87lbs/hp)

 

Was E85 the only change between those two runs?

 

Flywheel/Clutch
Injectors
Changed to different catback for sound limit purposes but both are 2.25" mandrel bent.

All the information and a dynapack before/after are in my build thread.

 

Aftermarket sway bar endlinks a points item? stock sways.

 

Is this a question? Would you be willing to spend a bit extra to purchase a verb?

 

"7) Add, replace, remove, or modify anti-roll bars (“sway” bars—front, rear, or both) or end
links—may have spherical joints on the end links and/or relocation of the mounting points without additional points assessment +2"


replace, remove, or modify end links: +2

 

What does everyone do for kill switches?

2 post vs 4 post?
Where did you mount it?

 

4 post.

Big post kills positive battery cable coming from the back of the car, small post kills ECU power so I don't have to mess with alternator stuff. ECU shuts off, car shuts off, and when alternator stops spinning nothing has power anymore.

Mine is mounted near the forward corner opening of the driver side window. I can reach it and it's clearly visible and accessible from outside. Pictures are in my build thread.

 

I did a 2 post in the link below. worked just fine and confirmed to shut off all power, both from head tech official and regional director. a few good posts in there that simplify install. if you do do this, be sure to cover all engine connections. I used liquid electrical tape.

Spec Miata Community: 2-Pole Master Switch?


as far as mounting goes, its up to you where to mount it but ideally you will want it somewhere easily accessible from the outside in case a safety worker needs to shut it off if you forgot too. mine is by my right hand and also by the fire pull handle.

 

4-pole from Miatacage for me. After being intimidated thinking about playing with wires in my car, I spent less time actually installing the kill switch than I did reading the dozens of threads out there about it (meaning you can't go wrong if you read 'em all).

I have mine mounted at the intersection of the main hoop and harness cross-bar, passenger side. Battery is still located in trunk. I can turn it off while strapped in tightly and it is only a couple of inches from where the passenger window would be so the outside world can get to it if need be.

 

We only use the high capacity 4 pole from Longacre. We have had a few of the standard hi-lp cap switches die when running alternator current through them.

Longacre Battery Disconnect Switch 45782

 

2 post with the alt and battery on the same post just like the SM guys that way you avoid running the alt current through them. I bought a 4-post the first time and have no need for the second pair of posts. I just bought a 2-post Longacre for the new car