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Old 11-08-2011, 06:59 PM   #101
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The OEM heating unit is enough to melt the ice off of my REAR window in the dead of winter, when it was around -15C...I don't think a huge one is too necessary.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:07 PM   #102
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More details on defroster? I'm still looking into option to make my gutted car driveable in rainy/winter conditions.
OEM heater core removed from housing. 6" or so Derale fan, small fabricated sheet aluminum box, OEM dash ducting. Fan is a bit overkill but it blows a fogged windshield dry in about 20 seconds at 80 mph. That its also about 85db goes relatively unnoticed in a 100db interior.
Whole thing weighs maybe 4lbs. Nuclear defroster.

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Crusher-crusher_defroster_2.jpg   Crusher-crusher_defroster.jpg  

Last edited by emilio700; 11-08-2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:37 PM   #103
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We need to think about the windshield washer system, as well. If it rains enough to get the track wet (and hence muddy, since most cars don't have driver selectable ABS!) but not enough to keep the windshield clean, clear vision becomes a struggle against the constantly-muddied-windshield from spray from other cars as we zoom past them. Having to do an extra pit stop to refill washer fluid would be a bummer.

Cheers,

Dean
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:57 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
OEM heater core removed from housing. 6" or so Derale fan, small fabricated abs plastic box, OEM dash ducting. Fan is a bit overkill but it blows a fogged windshield dry in about 20 seconds at 80 mph. That its also about 85db goes relatively unnoticed in a 100db interior.
Whole thing weighs maybe 4lbs. Nuclear defroster.
Gotcha. I was hoping some fancy CF ducting and vents. I hate setting stuff up onder the dash, especially since all the OEM vents etc. are gone.
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:16 PM   #105
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We need to think about the windshield washer system, as well. If it rains enough to get the track wet (and hence muddy, since most cars don't have driver selectable ABS!) but not enough to keep the windshield clean, clear vision becomes a struggle against the constantly-muddied-windshield from spray from other cars as we zoom past them. Having to do an extra pit stop to refill washer fluid would be a bummer.

Cheers,

Dean
Good idea. Yet another thing on the list for John. Probably run some alcohol or anti-freeze as well to keep it liquid. Probably fit a really big tank so we don't have to refill it every stop if the track gets ugly.
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:23 PM   #106
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The OEM heating unit is enough to melt the ice off of my REAR window in the dead of winter, when it was around -15C...I don't think a huge one is too necessary.
We have no heater, just a defroster. So all of the system's substantial heat is aimed at the windshield only. That is exactly what we want for what we are doing.

If you are referring to what might be necessary for a track day or street car, maybe so.
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:05 PM   #107
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So all of the system's substantial heat is aimed at the windshield only.
Text in mirror: "Objects in mirror are losing"

Read aloud in Italian accent: "Whats ina da rear view mirra doesn'ta matta!"
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:31 AM   #108
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Uh, unless that thing in the mirror is an approaching LMP-1 car, and rumors have more than one showing up to do this race! All cars running amber lights SHOULD be at least 10 seconds a lap faster than us. Many won't be, but they SHOULD be...
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Old 11-10-2011, 01:02 AM   #109
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Default Wet weather testing

BRP open test day. Rained early in the day so we got everything good and soaked, tried different tires, defroster, wipers, abs and whatnot. Gradually dried out all day and was finally dry when we left around 1pm. Went from tippy toeing around short shifting, looking offline for grip to hammering through the esses in 5th at about 110mph in the last session.

We were playing around with a big rear spoiler config matched with different tires trying to get a read on what combos would be best for what conditions. Since weather and track were changing all day, we were chasing pressure all day. So every time Sonny or I rolled out of the pits its was an easy lap to get a feel for the changes before going for it. A few laps to stabilize lap times and generate some driver feedback then back in to try the next combo. It's actually more tiring than just staying out the whole time. For the big test days I like to bring another team driver to switch off with. Easier to stay fresh and sharp that way. Otherwise, 6 hours in the seat in one stint with a constantly broken rhythm of frequent pit stops melts your brain.

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Old 11-11-2011, 11:45 AM   #110
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94-00 gasket, no other mods.
Based purely on analytic research, I believe this to be the most optimum configuration. The later gaskets appear to starve the front of the head for upwards-flowing coolant, which is a good compromise given the front-mounted thermostat, however I believe the most optimal cooling system configuration to be precisely what Emilio has implemented- the nearly-model gasket combined with a rear-thermostat reroute.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:13 PM   #111
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My god, that torque curve look DELICIOUS! What a great advantage to be able to avoid shifting so often. Fewer gear changes = less wear and tear AND less chance for over rev/missed shift/etc. You've done this right!

BTW, nice hand work there, brother! Nice to see you drive through the moments where the car gets very unsettled but then comes back to you...
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:30 PM   #112
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Linkie to dyno plot?
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:33 PM   #113
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I think since Dean is on the team, he gets access to privileged info.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:41 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
Linkie to dyno plot?
Won't be posted as far as I'm aware.

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I think since Dean is on the team, he gets access to privileged info.
I'm pretty sure Dean hasn't seen it (neither have I!) but its very apparent from the video Emilio posted.
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:06 PM   #115
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Nick's right - I was just commenting on what I was seeing in the video - the strong acceleration out of corners where Emilio is not downshifting where you might expect him to.
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:42 AM   #116
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Is that the 1" wilwood brake master in the first post? Which booster are you using with it?

I'm trying to decide between the NA or thin/msm NB booster. I give up trying to modulate the brakes with the fat NB booster and the v8r brake kit.
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:21 PM   #117
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Is that the 1" wilwood brake master in the first post? Which booster are you using with it?

I'm trying to decide between the NA or thin/msm NB booster. I give up trying to modulate the brakes with the fat NB booster and the v8r brake kit.
NB1 base model manual booster. Our brakes are a bunch smaller than your but the modulation is fantastic, effort just a little less than stock. Dumb luck in my case. I figured I'd start somewhere and just keep trying boosters until I got the pedal I wanted. Stock boost from that tub was perfect.

I have driven an NA6 with the full V8R kit and it was overboosted. Too little effort and not much feedback. Apparently, booster choice is critical.
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:25 PM   #118
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NB1 base model manual booster. Our brakes are a bunch smaller than your but the modulation is fantastic, effort just a little less than stock. Dumb luck in my case. I figured I'd start somewhere and just keep trying boosters until I got the pedal I wanted. Stock boost from that tub was perfect.

I have driven an NA6 with the full V8R kit and it was overboosted. Too little effort and not much feedback. Apparently, booster choice is critical.
Im trying to figure out sizes so I can just ditch the booster. How about a full V8R kit with no booster? what caliper piston sizes do they run?

Bob
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:33 PM   #119
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Im trying to figure out sizes so I can just ditch the booster. How about a full V8R kit with no booster? what caliper piston sizes do they run?

Bob
Goodwin front, Wilwood front, V8R rear 1.38" piston 120-6806 caliper
V8R front 1.75" piston 120-6816 caliper
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:39 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Goodwin front, Wilwood front, V8R rear 1.38" piston 120-6806 caliper
V8R front 1.75" piston 120-6816 caliper
Then they run 1.38 4 piston in the rear with 1.75" 4 piston in the front?

Seems like you wouldnt need a booster at all?

It's like double the clamping force for the same pedal effort.

Bob
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