What I know:

• China rods
• Supertech SS intake and exhaust valves
• Supertech single springs
• MSM cam
• Supermiata damper
• MSM pan with a girdle
• BE street oil pump (no VVT in my life)
• ARP main studs
• ARP head studs
• RPM will not exceed 7200 (won't rev the engine enough to benefit from a long-rod job)

What I want your thoughts on:

• Bull nosing crank (I want it to rev fast)
• compression ratio for 91 octane
• Which piston
• turning down the edge of the quench pad

I'd like to see 150whp minimum, not hungry for much more.

 

9.5 or 10 comp for pump 91. though I've heard people say they knock on 10:1 when pushing it on a bat batch of fuel

 

I have EV14 sequential now. I'm a little temped to do factory 9.5:1 pistons, but wanted some over-bore for more output. I can always reduce spark angle.

 

Why only 9:1 cr? I went 10:1 in my NA motor, I wish I had done more. I've heard rumors of an OE JDM 10.5:1 piston..also stock springs are more than adequate at 7200.

 

I'm aware but this is "oh ****, wrong gear!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" protection.

 

this is trey-flora we're talking about: he needs a fully built $5,000 engine to run stock power levels.

 

I like it when people who never put their car on a track troll me over track reliability concerns.

 

LOL all the other people with stock or refreshed stock engines must be breaking down every race

 

I've killed 2 OE longblocks this year, both due to mechanical overrevs. Those of us who know better are smart enough to spend the cash on rods and valvetrain now to save on the headache and motor swap labor later on. Kindly go troll somewhere else.

 

Pwnt

 

I'm not trolling *******.
I'm trying to save Trey a buck or two.
But whatever, **** this ****. Have fun.

 

Umadbro?

 

 

"turning down the edge of the quench pad"

Not familiar with the theory on this, although There are some people using the Singh Groove mod to alter the quench with positive results.

Singh grooves in cylinder head • Speed Talk

 

Taking the edge off the quench pad and slightly rounding it. It could add mechanical octane, I don't know.

 

What the hell is wrong with the parts you already have?

 

Most of those listed I already have, ------.

 

You know when you're sure that no one gives a crap, you're on the right track.

It's a fact

 

Trey what are you going to run for a head and intake?

At those power levels I would run stock 10:1 pistons. They will be safe with 91 oct if you have good oil control and proper squish/quench.

I am not sure what you refer to on turning down the quench pad but be careful in that area. Tightening up quench band reduces detonation tendencies. I hope that's what you mean.

 

I'm using the 99 head from my turbo car that has 2 days on it, I only need to swap the cam. I have a square-top for the intake.

I am curios about slightly rounding the quench pad lip because I see a ton of heads that have that area chipped or abraded, I saw it again this weekend.

Why do you say to run 10:1 and not higher, while reducing spark angle? I want to be sure I get to 150whp, not a single HP under it. As long as I have more than ~24* of spark angle, I'm not worried about valve burn. If that last engine made 160whp on 11.5:1 pistons with 40% leak....well, I don't know what to think. I think 10.5:1 will be a good compromise, i would go no higher than 11.0. Then, if my 11.5:1 pistons are okay I may still consider running those. I'd like to hit MBT rather than detonation, but I doubt that will happen on anything higher than 9:1. I will have the stock VVT engined daily driver on the dyno this weekend, that will probably help me make a decision. How much output does a square-top net over a 99 intake plenum?