Hustler's new engine: help him pick parts, ya'll ( a thread for power tops)
#41
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As far as piston material are concerned I think the supertech ones are the best. They are a high silicon forging that expands less that other types of forgings (JE etc). This really helps with oil control. Oil control really helps control detonation.
Stock pistons are also high silicon but cast. The only downside is they are weak and more likely to shatter if subjected to detonation.
Maybe I missed it but did something happen to John's motor?
Stock pistons are also high silicon but cast. The only downside is they are weak and more likely to shatter if subjected to detonation.
Maybe I missed it but did something happen to John's motor?
#42
My original recommendation for a 10:1 piston was due to fuel, Texas summer temps and track conditions.
Rather than try to control detonation by lower compression I would suggest the following. With the below in mind 10:5 or more should be fine.
Add adjustable cam gears. Retarding the intake will bleed off static compression and move the power curve up the rpm band. Take the dyno torque curve and shift it over 250-500 rpms to get an ideal of what i mean.
Dyno/road tune for 91 oct but run race gas blends at the track. 93-95 oct makes a world of difference and is cheap insurance under high heat/lead situations.
Rather than try to control detonation by lower compression I would suggest the following. With the below in mind 10:5 or more should be fine.
Add adjustable cam gears. Retarding the intake will bleed off static compression and move the power curve up the rpm band. Take the dyno torque curve and shift it over 250-500 rpms to get an ideal of what i mean.
Dyno/road tune for 91 oct but run race gas blends at the track. 93-95 oct makes a world of difference and is cheap insurance under high heat/lead situations.
Also, as an alternative to a pimpy clutch setup, have you considered turning down a 1.6 flywheel to lighten it? I cant see that being more than a few bucks at the machine shop.
#43
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I came here to post almost exactly this. I used to do this all the time with my WRX that was tuned on 93 because I found that on the street, I would have no knock, but on the track, the knocklite was lit up like a Christmas tree.
Also, as an alternative to a pimpy clutch setup, have you considered turning down a 1.6 flywheel to lighten it? I cant see that being more than a few bucks at the machine shop.
Also, as an alternative to a pimpy clutch setup, have you considered turning down a 1.6 flywheel to lighten it? I cant see that being more than a few bucks at the machine shop.
I have a fancy, light flywheel as well.
#44
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I have a dillema, I don't think I want Supertech pistons but I'm kind of an idiot so I don't really know what I'm talking about.
I did some reading last night in bed, with a kitty, and learned that Supertech drops their quenche pads by up to 1.5mm, which is bad. I also do not like the angularity at the piston dome, it's too tall. I am not sure what to think about the "button" at the sparkplug. I'm not sure if that adds mechanical octane, takes it away, slows flame speed, or makes magic:
Look at the drop around the ring land "behind" the quench pad. Why do that? Isn't that going to put more combustion around the outside of the piston, most likely with a not-so-homogenous mixture? Again, I wear a walking helmet, but that doesn't seem like a good thing to me.
The factory 10:1 piston on the right is smoother on the top with less angular junk to hot-spot and divider between valves:
Then, things start looking really good on the Wisecos. No angular hot-spotty edges, smoother face on the dome, and possibly a deeper exhaust valve pocket (burn duration):
Here are the 10:1 JEs from JKav's build. I don't know how I feel about the valve reliefs, don't know if he actually likes those pistons, or if JE is handing out paola. I respect whatever JKav does, I'd be a fool not to...but I want a 10.5 piston since I want to see 160whp:
Then I fould this. FM pistons, those bastards, with their $800 slugs and what I predict is clearly a superior design...however I need a better picture.
The smoothest dome, no valve-separation on the exhaust side, incredibly smooth dome shape, and an offset wrist pin.
Here is their stroker piston, notice how the valve reliefs do not cut into the ring-land area:
Send us a better picture, FM. The problem with this is the price, I don't have an additonal $400 to blow out my *** on pistons, regardless of the reality that they're probably the most important part of the engine, maybe the heart.
Then, the big problem...I found this gem that I saved and I believe it's a Miata piston becuase it's labled as such in my saved pics folder, and Roller Wave is made by Endyne. Look at how deep the valve reliefs are, how smooth the edges are at every angle, and how the dome is biased to one side. ****, I think I want Endyne pistons, but they're probably more expensive than FM.
Right now I'm thinking 10.5:1 is the compression limit for 91 octane for a conventional piston. I could potentially go with the Supertech piston because I think I prefer that less-expeansive material, but Ill have to massage the edges of the piston dome/valve divider thingies and hopefully get compression down from 11 to 10.5. The quench-pad recession bothers me though. The regular Wiseco piston looks like a good choice for $100 more, requires no work, but there are some unknowns that are above my head. The FM piston is $800, at that point why not just send the engine to Endyne and get something fancy? Endyne is a great option, like a dream...but I'm not so sure I want an engine so expensive that I'm afraid to tune it or hang the tach at 7000rpm for the next five years without thinking about the money.
Talk to me, bitches.
I did some reading last night in bed, with a kitty, and learned that Supertech drops their quenche pads by up to 1.5mm, which is bad. I also do not like the angularity at the piston dome, it's too tall. I am not sure what to think about the "button" at the sparkplug. I'm not sure if that adds mechanical octane, takes it away, slows flame speed, or makes magic:
Look at the drop around the ring land "behind" the quench pad. Why do that? Isn't that going to put more combustion around the outside of the piston, most likely with a not-so-homogenous mixture? Again, I wear a walking helmet, but that doesn't seem like a good thing to me.
The factory 10:1 piston on the right is smoother on the top with less angular junk to hot-spot and divider between valves:
Then, things start looking really good on the Wisecos. No angular hot-spotty edges, smoother face on the dome, and possibly a deeper exhaust valve pocket (burn duration):
Here are the 10:1 JEs from JKav's build. I don't know how I feel about the valve reliefs, don't know if he actually likes those pistons, or if JE is handing out paola. I respect whatever JKav does, I'd be a fool not to...but I want a 10.5 piston since I want to see 160whp:
Then I fould this. FM pistons, those bastards, with their $800 slugs and what I predict is clearly a superior design...however I need a better picture.
The smoothest dome, no valve-separation on the exhaust side, incredibly smooth dome shape, and an offset wrist pin.
Here is their stroker piston, notice how the valve reliefs do not cut into the ring-land area:
Send us a better picture, FM. The problem with this is the price, I don't have an additonal $400 to blow out my *** on pistons, regardless of the reality that they're probably the most important part of the engine, maybe the heart.
Then, the big problem...I found this gem that I saved and I believe it's a Miata piston becuase it's labled as such in my saved pics folder, and Roller Wave is made by Endyne. Look at how deep the valve reliefs are, how smooth the edges are at every angle, and how the dome is biased to one side. ****, I think I want Endyne pistons, but they're probably more expensive than FM.
Right now I'm thinking 10.5:1 is the compression limit for 91 octane for a conventional piston. I could potentially go with the Supertech piston because I think I prefer that less-expeansive material, but Ill have to massage the edges of the piston dome/valve divider thingies and hopefully get compression down from 11 to 10.5. The quench-pad recession bothers me though. The regular Wiseco piston looks like a good choice for $100 more, requires no work, but there are some unknowns that are above my head. The FM piston is $800, at that point why not just send the engine to Endyne and get something fancy? Endyne is a great option, like a dream...but I'm not so sure I want an engine so expensive that I'm afraid to tune it or hang the tach at 7000rpm for the next five years without thinking about the money.
Talk to me, bitches.
Last edited by hustler; 12-13-2012 at 10:29 AM.
#49
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Hey, why don't all you neckbeards come in here and hijack my awesome thread with your tales of heterosexual virginity and intellectual depravity? If you two do this again in here, I'm banning you both.
#54
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Also, I worry that the Supertech pistons have valve reliefs cut into the quench and ring land. That's a big worry for me. I want the most mechanical octane possible.
#60
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Here's another wrench in the bidet:
Let's say I could get an H-beam rod in any length I wanted for under $400 and a Wiseco with adjusted wrist-pin geometry for $550 and I don't want to rev the car over 7200?
What sayeth the nose breathing classs?
Let's say I could get an H-beam rod in any length I wanted for under $400 and a Wiseco with adjusted wrist-pin geometry for $550 and I don't want to rev the car over 7200?
What sayeth the nose breathing classs?