Hustler's new engine: help him pick parts, ya'll ( a thread for power tops)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
BE oil pump = Reliability
Pistons: must be replaced (!$500)
Rods = too cheap to tell
Bearings = must be replaced
Cams= $700, $300 valve job.
Do the math, spare us the incredulity. Yes, that's a new word for me.
18psi, that is where I was going at the begining of the thread. I can not understand making decisions on what parts to buy, when I am not sure how good the parts are that I already have.
I am not sure why we are even having this discussion.
I am not sure why we are even having this discussion.
If revs are kept ~7k and the tune is good; there is no reason stock rods would not be reliable in this application.
It's not like there is a turbo pounding it's anus in. The torque curve is more gradual.
I say bother with rods if you bother with the head. .02
It's not like there is a turbo pounding it's anus in. The torque curve is more gradual.
I say bother with rods if you bother with the head. .02
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
FYI- This is a 12:1 piston from a buddy's 1.6L motor. It ate a throttle plate screw. Not sure who made it, but I'd wager it was worked over.
Get whatever piston you want and smooth the edges with a die grinder. Seems most all the big money motors do it.
Get whatever piston you want and smooth the edges with a die grinder. Seems most all the big money motors do it.
This was a little more drastic. If I recall the autopsy: The screw head got stuck at the valve and embedded into the seat. That broke the valve. Which holed the piston. And sent metal bits into the intake/exhaust and mucked up the neighbors.








