Crusher does not impress me, it is too slow. Driving it sucks.
The problem is $800, I'm just not that baller.
Headwork is pretty much out of the question right now because I have a 2-day old head that I don't want to pay for another valve-job on. Does the bowl work you speak of cut into the quench pad and what do you think about turning-down the edge of the quench pad? I see a hard edge in a cylinder and that tells me "hot-spot".
I like MBT, it makes me happy in terms of reliability and ease of tuning. When tuning with a det ceiling, you never know how close you are to det on track because although we can get close on a dyno, it's not close enough for me to sleep at night. I know you know this, but others may not. I'm really starting to lean toward 10.5 CR for my 93 octane car, that sees a lot of 91 in Oklahoma. I can bring 10-gallons of 93 with me to richen-up the 91 at Hallett. Wiseco 10.3s seem like the best option for me, but I want a little more dome height, just a touch...maybe I can weld some quarters. The other great part about those Wisecos is the awesome finish on them. I'll want to hand finish anything else I buy because that mechanical octane is valuable to me. I just broke down my 8.6:1 engine to sell the bottom end and there is zero det, I want to get back there, the enchanted land of MBT.
How bad do those 2618 pistons clanking and bang-up cylinder walls?
Welcome to 1981, year of my birth, back when Mazda put truck engines in sportscars.
I don't want to wait until summer to get this car running again. Email me on the side if you want. I'm not opposed to throwing in a prototype.

Is there any chance you have a Wiseco piston in house you can take some photos of for me? The more I obsess over this, the more I realize I need to compromise on compression ratio to build the reliability that I want. I'd like to see no less than 5-years out of the next engine running 10-15 weekends at the track per year. Now that I have a taste of W2W with RHarris, that number may be reduced.

 

FWIW, we once made over 180whp on about 10.5:1 and pump gas and only lightly reworked head. Took big cams but compression is not the only thing that matters.

 

Your clandestine piston email to me may free up some money for other things...or whatever happens when I get this head off in about 10 minutes.

 

trey don't you still have the turbo engine and all the gear sitting there only needing a welded manifold?

I'm still not sure you will be happy with simply beating the SM record after spending turbo time beating the crap out of everyone. I say that because I wouldn't be happy going slower than I am now. then, maybe you are all about the wheel to wheel at this point and are aiming for a specific class.

 

I believe Trey is faster now with less power? W2W is really fun, even a pack of 3-4 miata's in TT is ****.

 

When I get this car running again I'll let you go out for a ride with me so you can see how a man drives when his ***** require a special harness/girdle so they don't tear his vas deferns when braking.

I think that when I get this car back together, I won't be going slower than you. Pretty much everyone in Texas drives like they've never tapped a cervix in their lives anyway so you don't know what competition is like yet...I didn't.

 

I'd like to nominate the above as the official "Quote of the Thread".

On another note (thread hijack), Hey Jacob, is Spoolin2bars still alive?

 

My four day old bottom end, lol:
#1



#2



#3



#4

 

your block scores high marks.

 

leoulx.

can anyone read the bore size off the piston? I can't.

 

I don't think your machine shop guy can either. Sucks bro, what do?

 

Need to see the rings, pull that bottom like you do.

 

That doesn't look horrible. Remember a piston rocks back and forth on the rod, so you expect to see a difference in the wall honing from the piston skirts. #1 and #2 look ok, my very limited experience on the subject tell me #3 and #4 look a little high in wear. It's hard to say after only 4 miles.

 

I'd say that was pretty excessive for only a few miles. I'd expect to see that much scuffing after many thousands of miles. It's worn all the honing marks off, so it's more than just a little.

It's also uneven, which suggests the bore is not completely round.

 

lol, im in for some laps.

 

My 150-hour turbo bottom end leaks 6% and looks 10x better than this. This engine leaks 60% on #4.

 

Subscribed both for general knowledge gain, and endless entertainment. I can't wait to see the bottom end that gets built that withstands 150 hours of pounding by Hustler's special piston(s).

 

That amount of scratching on the walls is horrible for a low mile motor. I just pulled my turbo motor for a refresh. About 7 yrs of autox and occasion track abuse and there were only a few vertical lines that you couldnt even catch your nail on. And at 15psi on a stock bottom end, this wasnt exactly babied.

My piston skirt coating had more wear than the cylinder walls showed.

 

This engine probably has less than 1000 miles on it and I believe it has 6 track hours.

 

Who built this motor? Unless the bore and ring gaps were off, that would imply the wrist pins werent doing so well.

If you need a recommendation, there is a place in Hutto that built my motor last time.