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Old 04-16-2010, 12:50 PM   #441
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215/40/16 is the same diameter as stock.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:40 PM   #442
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Then I will most likely get a 205/45R16 for the front so I can get the front end down a little more, and I can leave the 215/50R16 in the back and drop the back down a little more and I should be good to go.
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Old 04-16-2010, 06:23 PM   #443
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one evil looking photo
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Old 04-17-2010, 09:57 PM   #444
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Yea I know I look like I am about to grow horns and blow fire out my eyes.
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Old 04-18-2010, 01:39 AM   #445
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American flag FTW. Wheres that giant *** mustang hood you had?
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:05 PM   #446
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The giant mustang hood is sitting on my buddies 87 notch LS6 swap with a PT88 turbo I will post pics of the other two cars we are working on when I get a chance.
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Old 04-19-2010, 11:43 AM   #447
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Here is a pic of the finished rear crossmember all I need to do is make a rod link to go to the rear so nothing moves. Also here is a pic of the other car we are working on. It is a 87 notch with an LS6 turbo. It sould put out somewhere around 1000WHP and be in the mid 8's on drag radials. We will see it sould be ready to fire up in the next few weeks.Name:  Justinsnotch.jpg
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:47 PM   #448
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I want to know why any one would spend $100 on a used Miata drive shaft for a 1.8L because the u-joints went bad when you can go to the drive shaft shop and have one built with replacable joints for $210.00. I was told by the guy there because the Miata and Toyota u-joints are "Staked In"/ non replacable that they could not balance my new drive shaft correctly so what did they do. They are building a brand new one with new yokes and rear flange and pipe for $200 so you guys out there making big power next time you blow a u-joint don't buy a shaft build one its cheaper in the long run and they claim that the steel shaft I am having made will be able to with stand 500HP so I will let you all know how long it last. How many people out there have had one made and how well did it work out for you.
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Old 04-24-2010, 05:21 PM
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Old 04-24-2010, 06:32 PM   #449
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Glad to see things are still moving along Sean. Looks like this project is really coming together.

Thanks again for the exhaust, it is kinda loud but provides a lot more flow than stock.
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:21 PM   #450
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Glad to hear you like it. If you put a glass pack after the cat it will quite down a lot without interupting flow. I hope to have it running and ready to go to the tuner in about 2 weeks.
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:41 PM   #451
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Here is a pic of the rear link I made to hold everything in place. It should work well I hope between this and the shims under the rear mounts it should not move. I got a good bit of stuff done this week as well the starter is in and wired other than the signal wire I am gonna hook that up tonight and see if it will turn over. The next thing is to wire the alternator, get the bolts for the new drive shaft, I need some hard ware for the rear link and then its off to my buddies to finish the wireing. After that install the SAFC and send it to dyno then beat streets. I hope to get this all done in the next 3 weeks we will see how that works out.

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Last edited by Sean; 04-28-2010 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 04-28-2010, 03:31 PM   #452
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This may be a dumb question but I am going to ask. On the harness that goes to the transmission there are two pairs of wires. One is for the reverse lights and the other for nuetral safety. Witch one is witch one has blade connectors and one has round connectors any one have and idea witch is witch that would be great.
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Old 04-28-2010, 04:41 PM   #453
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witch witch went witch way. I'm no help.
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:23 AM   #454
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Ok I figured out that the reverse light switch is the round pins and I can hook that to my sc trans but the other question I have is the neutral safety is the sqaure blade connector and I wire those to my new neutral saftey will they work or do I need to just bypass it and put a jumper in it and call it a day.
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:29 AM   #455
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Ok so there is hope for me yet. Last night I got the motor to crank and it works with the miata key and clutch pedal. YEA!!! Now I just need to finish some brakes lines and the wiring for the ECU and it should run. Then its on to installing the SAFC and tuning. It should deff be on the street by the end of may or at the latest early july.

Question of the day. - On the small harness that goes to the trans there are two sets of connectors that come out of it. One pair is for the reverse light switch I no these are the round pin connectors. The other two are a mystery to me. They are a pair of blade style connectors and I no they used to hook to a sensor in my trans but now I am wondering what they went to. If anyone can help that would be great.

Last edited by Sean; 04-30-2010 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 04-30-2010, 02:59 PM   #456
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bump for info on harness as stated above
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Old 04-30-2010, 03:48 PM   #457
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Neutral switch I'm pretty sure. I've left both of mine disconnected and been fine, however I think some people have had issues. And when they do, it has to do with those blade connectors, not the reverse switch. If nothing works, just jump those. I think.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:42 PM   #458
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that is awesome if i had a extra miata with a blown motor I might would try something like this if the 2jz engines aren't too $$$$$$$$$
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:03 PM
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:07 AM   #459
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Do it please I need another 2j freind and u can find the 2jzge engines cheap the gte is the expensive one. I'm gonna jump the two wires togeather and call it a day
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:54 PM   #460
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I got a little more work done. I got my brake lines re-plumbed to the 99 master cylinder and my adjustable proportioning valve in line and ready to go. It looks better in person than it does in this pic but you get the idea. I need to finish wiring the trans and the oil pres. sender, and some other small things then its off to get the ecu wired. We will see how this all goes.

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