Excellent. I already have the hose, i just failed to purchase a joiner. Thanks!

 

I'll try to get a picture soon of that side, engine is currently out, but it doesn't show all of he cluster thats back there.

 

Thanks! OK Curly, I balled just about as hard as I could for an hour...and I'm glad I did. Thanks for pointing out how messy it was. When you are in the middle of the project you sometimes don't notice all the little things you could have done to make everything flow better.

Before



I routed the EBC hose under the radiator cover if you can spot it. Perfect place to hide it in my opinion, plus it helps seal the air better too!



Routed the catch can hoses around the back of the IM and removed all the vacuum hoses and rerouted them in the cluster **** region so they all meshed together well. Also moved a ton of the wiring around and was able to get a lot of it out of sight out of mind. Slightly bent the feed/return fuel hard lines.

Much MUCH better

 

I'll worry about tying down the coolant line when I can think of a good solution. For now it is time to get some coolant in the lines, hook up the battery and see if I can get my laptop to communicate with MS.

 

Awesome progress, and great job on the cleanup.

 

A couple big *** Adel clamps would be perfect. In my experience, make sure you get the ones with stainless bands or they will end up looking like *** with a quickness.


http://www.maneywire.com/stainless-s...-404-l-en.html

 

I just used a zip tie to the manifold brace hole. I used a clamp at first, it was a pain in the ***, cause you need a long bolt, fender washer, another fender washer, and the nut.

 

I've had coolant sitting in the lines for an hour or two now. No leaks! Need to lengthen a couple ground wires later than I'll give it a go.

On my way to the paint shop to drop the hard top off to really finish the car up!

 

I don't want it to end.

 

Not needed. I just trimmed off both ends to get what I wanted. No joiner (i.e., failure point) in the middle.

 

Ditto.

 

I sure as hell do!

How is that a big point of failure? Its not like the coolant is under a tremendous amount of pressure, and unless you are a ***** and can't tighten hose clamps I don't see it as a huge issue. But the whole picture is small after the amount of sleep I'm negating.

 

It's really not a big deal. It's not as clean as no joiner, but it's in an accessible spot. Would a metal joiner be better? Sure. 10 years from now you'll need to replace the plastic one.

Seriously. NBD.

 

Sorry that came off a bit more intense than I was feeling.

Curly is hooking me up with a metal coupler so the problem is taken care of. Those silicone one piece reroutes are sweet but pricy.

 

You need to get out more: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...e-parts-75584/

 

Ain't that the truth.

 

OK Jeff makes his first appearance...Cranked the engine for a little while till I saw oil pressure.

gauges light up, tach lights up, lights flip up and down(one at a time though...hmmm) Lights stay on(think I know the problem), windshield wipers dont work(not a big deal) but everything else looks golden.

Do I start the engine for real now? I'm a little scared to reconnect the injectors and COP.

 

LOL, as long as it has oil pressure - go for it. The sooner the better, so that if it DOES have starting problems we can help quicker.

 

Hmm well I gave it a go and MS isn't recieving power for some reason...not sure what happened there. Need to see what I did wrong.

 

OK found the issue...sort of. The starter sucked most of the juice from the battery so it has starting clicking.

Found the red white wire had a butt splice I didn't see come loose so I resoldered it. Cranked the engine and the led's on the board came on while I was cranking the engine. But the battery died right after that. Can you only access MS while the engine is running? Other than while turning the motor over, the LEDs wouldn't stay lit.

Thank god it wasn't my fault! Just hopefully, it will start once I get a charge on it.