Jeff, if you can't tell -- we don't want this perfect Miata to ever be driven. So we will do whatever we can to add to your task list. LOL.

 

We share a common goal. It just gets very irritating being this close and finding **** like this. I feel like I've replaced almost all the wiring in the engine bay at this point.

 

Better to address now. Keep going! Take that hill!

 

If we are using the mountain biking euphemism, this has been one long *** hill for the downhill section!

 

Before I checkout, I'm 90% sure these are the correct connectors for the 99 TB, the only one I question is the 2 pin connector.

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » 2 Way Plug Connector Kit for Japanese applications, Gray



Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Yazaki » Japanese 3 way TPS Connector Kit (Miata)

 

Oooooooh, forgot you have the AEM ones. Carry on.

 

First one doesn't seem correct to me - the keyways are wrong - I think thats the one you already have on the IAC now, has to look like this:



Ask at Ballenger (he is at this board too Sign In - Miata Turbo Forum - Turbo Kitten is watching you test compression. for AMP part-nr. 184000-1

If you contact him anyway, I would ask if he has all the connectors and pins for the injector harness too - so that you might be able to build it completely new...

BTW. - I still don't feel that gauge panel 100%... I always think you should have done something like that:

Out of this thread at *cough* CR.net:
CollinMB's Frankensmurf Build - Page 3 - ClubRoadster.net

I guess that counts for the Greets, Sven

 

Thanks Sven, I'll give him a call tomorrow. I was trying to figure out what the connectors were for the RC750s since I wanted to build it 100% from scratch(after doing the VIC's connector, it looks much cleaner), but since I left the harness in St. George I couldn't compare the pictures to the harness.

Maybe I'll try doing it flush like that on my old tombstone, before I wreck the brand new one.

 

Good point, because you need to bondo and sand it anyway...

 

I think a RoadsterTech two gauge hole, full height plate, rack system would look pretty dope as well. Just thought I'd throw it out there, since I meant to 30 pages ago. Love the build Jeff!

 

With how much ABS plastic I have laying around, I think I'll save the money. Their rack system is pretty nice though.

Plus if I do waste additional time on the panel, I would go all out as Sven suggested, and bondo the edges and make a truly clean setup.

I think for now at least, I want to work on the important stuff, I.E., getting the car ready to run.

I need to do several things, 1/2 of which I am waiting on connectors from Ballenger till I can do them.

-New injector harness
-New IAT/TPS connectors/wiring
-Rewire the DB12 MS3x DIYBOB connector and its associated inputs
-connect all the vacuum lines to the TB
-Retune the MS3x for full sequential injection & Spark, VICs, EBC, and for the new 99 TB settings
-Bumper
-Hood, of which I need to drill/cut the Aerocatch pins
-Actually put gas in the car
-Hope my battery still has a charge on it after sitting in the garage for 6 months.

Pray to the Flying Spaghetti Monster/Xenu/God/Allah the car starts when I turn the key for the first time.

*edit* Also powdercoat the shock towers to finally get Curly to stop rubbing it in my face via post and thread tags!

 

I'd recommend that you only change the 99TB settings on the MS until you're up and running. Then do the others one at a time. Otherwise, you'll have no idea why you're not starting.

 

Love the gauge pix. Thanks Jeff! I really need to get a set of my own.

That wiring harness... yuck. Just build one.

And my reason for posting: I identified a huge rattle source on my own car. Scrutinize the HVAC cable that runs above the passenger's knees, behind the glovebox, and to the flapper on the far right hand side. On Sharka, it rattled on both the HVAC tube and the glove box. Strategic foam tape application has helped quiet it down.

 

Little done this weekend, mostly been sleeping to recover from this week but oh well.

Wrapped my coolant lines. Why Mazda designed the routing to be so close to the headers is beyond me.





Went several layers thick on the return heater coolant line.



New throttle cable is like buttah



Which port does the turbo intercooler IAT line connect to and where does the other go to?

I think I remember reading the 99 throttle body doesn't need the IAT intercooler hose connection?

 

I think those are both for the coolant to warm the TB in the winter.

 

IAT=intake air temperature

ISC/IAC=idle speed control valve

Anyways those ports are for coolant.

I also noticed you heat wrapped also your coolant tube, should prevent the metal tube from degrading

 

On a stock BP4W I believe the coolant path is mixing manifold -> thermo housing -> throttle body -> oil cooler/preheater -> nipple on the back of the head.

Actually I think the flow is reverse of what I just described, but that's where the hoses run at any rate.

The NB throttle body does not have an external air feed hose so that's yet another piece of plumbing you get to eliminate

 

Personally I'd yank the fitting out of the throttle and drill/tap to 1\8npt and plug it just to clean it up a bit. 1\8npt might be big, but you get the idea. Dangling fitting are ugly. Like dicks that don't belong.

 

Thanks! And Vuti the wrapping of the tube was to help decrease any heat getting into the coolant. It's so close to the headers I figured it couldn't hurt.

 

Are they even necessary to run coolant through with the coolant reroutes that are currently on the car?

Meaning, can I just put plugs on them and call it a day since the original setup didn't have them.