93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
Just bought this, it is indeed epic stuff:
If link doesn't work, search for this:
X-Treme Tape TPE-X36ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1" x 36', Triangular, Black
It's also great for wiring harness that see high heat, like ignition and injector harnesses.
If link doesn't work, search for this:
X-Treme Tape TPE-X36ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1" x 36', Triangular, Black
It's also great for wiring harness that see high heat, like ignition and injector harnesses.
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Just bought this, it is indeed epic stuff:
Robot Check
If link doesn't work, search for this:
X-Treme Tape TPE-X36ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1" x 36', Triangular, Black
It's also great for wiring harness that see high heat, like ignition and injector harnesses.
Robot Check
If link doesn't work, search for this:
X-Treme Tape TPE-X36ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1" x 36', Triangular, Black
It's also great for wiring harness that see high heat, like ignition and injector harnesses.
Reply
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I'm a firm believer that every turbo'd miata owner should invest in the silicone mishimoto heater hoses. The fluro-silicone is good up to 500deg and it won't thermal cycle harden.
They also look purty, which I know at least Jeff cares about ...
-Zach
They also look purty, which I know at least Jeff cares about ...
-Zach
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Followed Rick's advice and mounted it as he did and it works really nicely. Took it to a Welder who does aluminum railings/iron work, he cut off the original fan bungs and moved them to the drivers side. Welded some tabs onto the passenger side and $50 later and no frustration we are good to go.
Had to trim the fan a little and add a couple washers to the fan mounts to clear the blades, but other than that no problem.
Now I just need to figure out how to connect the AN connectors to the stainless lines. Just glad they are 90º connectors to clear the frame rails.
Had to trim the fan a little and add a couple washers to the fan mounts to clear the blades, but other than that no problem.
Now I just need to figure out how to connect the AN connectors to the stainless lines. Just glad they are 90º connectors to clear the frame rails.
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Elite Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
From: Cedar City, UT
Also is there a simple trick to fitting the frayed ends of the stainless lines into the connector sleeves without buying the special tool?
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I bought these as well, for the exact same reason. Gives me one less thing to worry about. For the NB readers in the audience, Mishimoto does not list fitment for the NB but the NA 1.8 ones fit with no problem.
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SantaMonk is here, still hungover from the holidays!
Who wants a roll of this ultraballersuperjdmyo tape? Electrical Tape | MSCDirect.com
I use it at work for sealing slightly pressurized containers of bovine serum, but it's "too sticky" (to itself) for some of my coworkers. I have three rolls.
Who wants a roll of this ultraballersuperjdmyo tape? Electrical Tape | MSCDirect.com
I use it at work for sealing slightly pressurized containers of bovine serum, but it's "too sticky" (to itself) for some of my coworkers. I have three rolls.
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
SantaMonk is here, still hungover from the holidays!
Who wants a roll of this ultraballersuperjdmyo tape? Electrical Tape | MSCDirect.com
I use it at work for sealing slightly pressurized containers of bovine serum, but it's "too sticky" (to itself) for some of my coworkers. I have three rolls.
Who wants a roll of this ultraballersuperjdmyo tape? Electrical Tape | MSCDirect.com
I use it at work for sealing slightly pressurized containers of bovine serum, but it's "too sticky" (to itself) for some of my coworkers. I have three rolls.
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Comments:
1. I've never had those motor mount bolts come loose if torqued to spec. That said, blue Loktite never hurts.
2. AN hose assembly instructions: http://www.jegs.com/instructions/555...ngAssembly.pdf
3. Firesleeve has a specific purpose. It is NOT meant to be a thermal barrier for radiative heat. It is a good barrier for conductive heat, and it also chars when exposed to an open flame to protect the hose (buy time) in a fire. It comes from aerospace, and it's use is mandatory on aircraft for any flexible line that carries combustible fluids such as fuel, oil, hydraulics, etc.
4. Lines exposed to metal that is so hot that it glows (radiates) need a reflective covering to handle the radiation (in aerospace, this is handled by using stainless steel braided lines that naturally reflect). Firesleeve is not a reflective covering, and the color of firesleeve that you've chosen (black) is the worst possible color. Note that you don't have to use that shitty tape stuff for your heater hose, they make reflective sleeving: Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve Insulation - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS.
5. The other thing I've noticed is that our heater hoses are probably OK without anything at all, they seem to be sufficiently cooled by the coolant flowing through them. For example, if you're using a simple rubber or silicone turbo oil drain hose, it's not uncommon for them to cook away and need replacement any time they are disassembled. In contrast, the heater hose connection at the OEM metal engine-side tube under the manifold always disassembles easily. So . . . .
6. Stainless-braided lines make excellent metal saws. Be careful to secure them whenever they run close to, well, anything. Nylon-braided hoses are a nice alternative to reduce this effect and are also lighter weight (i.e., http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...rPage=60&pno=1). One of the advantages of your oil cooler location is that you are not exposing the cooler or the lines to road debris. So SS is serious overkill.
BTW, love the tabs on the radiator. That's quality stuff right there.
1. I've never had those motor mount bolts come loose if torqued to spec. That said, blue Loktite never hurts.
2. AN hose assembly instructions: http://www.jegs.com/instructions/555...ngAssembly.pdf
3. Firesleeve has a specific purpose. It is NOT meant to be a thermal barrier for radiative heat. It is a good barrier for conductive heat, and it also chars when exposed to an open flame to protect the hose (buy time) in a fire. It comes from aerospace, and it's use is mandatory on aircraft for any flexible line that carries combustible fluids such as fuel, oil, hydraulics, etc.
4. Lines exposed to metal that is so hot that it glows (radiates) need a reflective covering to handle the radiation (in aerospace, this is handled by using stainless steel braided lines that naturally reflect). Firesleeve is not a reflective covering, and the color of firesleeve that you've chosen (black) is the worst possible color. Note that you don't have to use that shitty tape stuff for your heater hose, they make reflective sleeving: Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve Insulation - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS.
5. The other thing I've noticed is that our heater hoses are probably OK without anything at all, they seem to be sufficiently cooled by the coolant flowing through them. For example, if you're using a simple rubber or silicone turbo oil drain hose, it's not uncommon for them to cook away and need replacement any time they are disassembled. In contrast, the heater hose connection at the OEM metal engine-side tube under the manifold always disassembles easily. So . . . .
6. Stainless-braided lines make excellent metal saws. Be careful to secure them whenever they run close to, well, anything. Nylon-braided hoses are a nice alternative to reduce this effect and are also lighter weight (i.e., http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...rPage=60&pno=1). One of the advantages of your oil cooler location is that you are not exposing the cooler or the lines to road debris. So SS is serious overkill.
BTW, love the tabs on the radiator. That's quality stuff right there.
Last edited by hornetball; Jan 15, 2015 at 12:33 PM.
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3. Firesleeve has a specific purpose. It is NOT meant to be a thermal barrier for radiative heat. It is a good barrier for conductive heat, and it also chars when exposed to an open flame to protect the hose (buy time) in a fire. It comes from aerospace, and it's use is mandatory on aircraft for any flexible line that carries combustible fluids such as fuel, oil, hydraulics, etc.
4. Lines exposed to metal that is so hot that it glows (radiates) need a reflective covering to handle the radiation (in aerospace, this is handled by using stainless steel braided lines that naturally reflect). Firesleeve is not a reflective covering, and the color of firesleeve that you've chosen (black) is the worst possible color. Note that you don't have to use that shitty tape stuff for your heater hose, they make reflective sleeving: Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve Insulation - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS.
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Blaen99 welded AN fittings to an aluminum NB heater core, and has SS throughout, it's very nice. Just remember they don't flex as well. One goes to the turbo, another has a 90* fitting on the end iirc.
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I can't really say for sure, but a lot of the nice oil cooler kits I see use rubber isolators on them. For mine I just over sized the holes and use a nylon lock nut with a thru bolt and just snug everything down. That why if it needs to move a little, its not putting stress on the heat exchanger.
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