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93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread

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93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread

Old 02-08-2015, 08:33 PM
  #3321  
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I believe you need to keep the stock piece as a spacer otherwise you can't put fittings onto the thermostat plate iirc.

Put the gates belt on with the ati damper, yes. It's a pita to install /remove.
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:30 PM
  #3322  
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I think it's a 28mm. NAs and NBs are different IIRC.
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:54 PM
  #3323  
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Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
I believe you need to keep the stock piece as a spacer otherwise you can't put fittings onto the thermostat plate iirc.

Put the gates belt on with the ati damper, yes. It's a pita to install /remove.
I usually cut it down an inch or so when installing a sandwich plate so that the OE piece can be removed. Mock your sandwich plate up first with your AN lines installed to make sure they will clear everything without the factory piece installed.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:22 PM
  #3324  
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
I really haven't touched the motor at all hence the lack of a 25/26. I guess I'll need one soon as I'm putting an ATI damper and 12-1 trigger on soon.

Good time to change the timing belt with a nice blue Gates as well even though it only has 20k on it?

Thinking I may tap the Mocal sandwich plate in 2 more places for turbo oil feed and oil temp gauge.

Also, the Mocal plate doesn't seem to have the 2 coolant ports as the OEM one does. Are people just running a coolant line from the front of the motor to the rear? Doesn't seem necessary to cool the plate any more with the 25 row setrab.
What are you going to use a 25/26 on doing the timing belt? The crank bolt is 21. The big bolt on the oil filter mount is the only one I know that size on the car.

If you're putting an ATI on, definitely do the timing belt at the same time because it's a PITA to take it off and do it later.

I think most people just delete the coolant line going down the intake side. The factory oil warmer isn't very useful (except as a spacer), and the throttle body heater may or may not be useful depending on how cold it gets where you live. I removed the front feed when I did the reroute, and just capped off the port on the back of the head, this eliminates potential coolant failure points.

--Ian
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Old 02-09-2015, 04:01 PM
  #3325  
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Most people put their sandwich plates on top of that oil warmer. Also, it's an oil warmer that helps your oil temp come up to spec faster. Important if you live in cold weather.
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Old 02-09-2015, 04:07 PM
  #3326  
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Cold weather isn't a big deal as it is just a weekend car/track car.

Curly how did you cap your coolant ports on the back/front? Just weld the bungs shut after cutting them off? I have some rubber caps, but as you stated, it is still a failure point.

Also, it is ridiculous how fast those rubber caps start to crack on the intake manifold. Anyone point me in a direction that won't wear out as fast from heat? I'm guessing there are silicone versions?
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Old 02-09-2015, 04:22 PM
  #3327  
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
Cold weather isn't a big deal as it is just a weekend car/track car.

Curly how did you cap your coolant ports on the back/front? Just weld the bungs shut after cutting them off? I have some rubber caps, but as you stated, it is still a failure point.

Also, it is ridiculous how fast those rubber caps start to crack on the intake manifold. Anyone point me in a direction that won't wear out as fast from heat? I'm guessing there are silicone versions?
I had the same problem on my 318is when I modded the heater hose routing to eliminate a throttle body heater. I found these on ebay under the search "silicone cap" under industrial and automotive. They don't heat cycle out in a few months like the Autozone caps.

eBay link
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:31 PM
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I think I ended up using a giant 1 1/8" SAE socket to get that nut off there, but I'm using an NB block so apparently bigger nut. YMMV
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:10 PM
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The nut on the NB for the oil cooler spacer is 27mm. I know because I had to buy the socket very recently. No idea if the NA is smaller.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:22 PM
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Everyone says they are huge but compared to my 2860 it seems small.

Me gusta.

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Old 02-09-2015, 09:34 PM
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Damn that looks amazing.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:47 PM
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That looks sexcellent. Beautiful. Now manifold pics please.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:09 PM
  #3333  
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Mixing manifold and thermostat neck (if keeping) are twisted out, and welded shut. As for the rear port on the head, I use a piece of high quality hose (fuel pressure hose works well), a bolt, and 2 clamps. That's THE best "cap" you can buy, anything else will fail quickly. I have one of these "ghetto" caps on Laz's, Oregonmon's, my own, and my friend's VVT build. I also recently found the same on Ed's TSE built MSM motor, so yeah, that's your answer.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:43 AM
  #3334  
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Damn you and your flawless turbine housing. I said I wasn't going to do it, but now that I have the time I'm seriously considering having mine coated.

I hadn't realized I was this vain
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:44 PM
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I was just about to comment yesterday about how his is smooth as a 12yo and yours looks like a 85yo prostitute
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I was just about to comment yesterday about how his is smooth as a 12yo and yours looks like a 85yo prostitute
Good lord that's a vivid picture. I just had lunch Vlad! Damn you.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:00 PM
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Is it welded between the outlet and the body of the turbine housing?
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I was just about to comment yesterday about how his is smooth as a 12yo and yours looks like a 85yo prostitute
Yeah... or like my turbine housing has been doing meth.
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Is it welded between the outlet and the body of the turbine housing?
I believe its all one continuous casting, I've been looking at a lot of housings recently
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:02 PM
  #3339  
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lulzz

I was actually eating when I posted that, so I toned it down
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
Why does your EFR have a black data tag? Mine has a blue one and the only other ones I've seen with blue data tags were Soviets self disassembling 6258s...
Does anyone know if this actually indicate some production change?
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