93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread - Page 175 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-02-2015, 10:20 AM   #3481
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Well you could dump a lot of money into it and save it... I guess I would see if it is rusted out anywhere. Get more pics, it is tempting for $500. Also $500 is asking price, so try and get it for $350 - $400.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:23 AM   #3482
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Ew. Not worth it at all.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:28 AM   #3483
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I wouldn't consider it at all if I didn't have a spare 1.6 block, 2 5-speeds and a shitload of parts.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:33 AM   #3484
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Neverminddd. Send me a 5 speed
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:34 AM   #3485
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Wait don't you already have a spare 1.6 block in your garage? You sent me the crank pulley off it.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:36 AM   #3486
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That guy from MN. LOL. There won't be even a "speck" of rust on this thing. High desert. End of story.

Those midwest/northeast guys just don't get it. And they keep buying local cars instead of springing $300 or so to get a completely rust-free car from another part of the country.

Would be a quick and easy fix. Needs a quicky paint job. Question is . . . can you resist being Jeffbucc? Can you do it quick and easy? You've got the parts laying around . . . . Look at this thing, still has its daisies! I'd totally do it. I'm thinking track car.
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:44 AM   #3487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
That guy from MN. LOL. There won't be even a "speck" of rust on this thing. High desert. End of story.
I would agree for anyone who doesn't garage their car. That was the whole reason for me ditching the WRX and coming to the Miata world. Minnesota eats cars! It sucks.


Jeff - that is a good move, put more money into your car.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:20 AM   #3488
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Yeah it all depends on what it looks like in person. I could flip it pretty easy, and I highly doubt it has rust.

I could buff the paint to the point where it looks shiny.

I have a spark 1.6 block, spare clutch, headlights, yadda yadda, so as long as I don't put any money into it it seems like a profit situation.

Course by the time I'm done I'd probably be tempted to build a NA track car knowing my personality...
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:24 AM   #3489
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Hmm looks like a repaint now that I look at the rockers not being black.

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Old 03-02-2015, 11:28 AM   #3490
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Cause that's its biggest problem...
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:32 AM   #3491
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That thing is done, don't do it. Look at the rear wheel wells and just above the side of the rear bumper...
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:38 AM   #3492
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Yeah the more I look at it, it is a mess. Maybe if I was serious about building a track car Lazarus style I'd be more tempted, just flights of fancy currently.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:40 AM   #3493
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Ignore the haters Jeff. That car NEEDS you.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:40 AM   #3494
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I mean... See if the guy will take $250-300 for it. Can't lose really, just depends on if you want to mess with it.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:43 AM   #3495
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Originally Posted by Monk View Post
Ignore the haters Jeff. That car NEEDS you.
Dunno if I should listen to a guy who innovates spring loaded ****** in a shipping box.
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Old 03-02-2015, 11:50 AM   #3496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
Dunno if I should listen to a guy who innovates spring loaded ****** in a shipping box.
It's exactly that kind of genius that you should be listening to.
Basically, I just want another amazing build thread to read.
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Old 03-02-2015, 12:11 PM   #3497
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My god, that thing is all but dead. Somebody shoot it.
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Old 03-02-2015, 12:16 PM   #3498
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You knew better than to come here and ask this question
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:17 PM   #3499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Make sure you ask to get it surfaced, not just sanded.
nothing wrong with sanded, if you use an industrial sized sander and not a small 6x48 or something.
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:21 PM   #3500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAB View Post
I also had doubts about this being Abe's work, maybe his earlier work?

This is why we use a huge aluminum back purging plate to pull the heat out of the flange during production.

Although im sure you check for flatness after welding, my first few manifolds were built with a 3/4" thick aluminum like that for a backing plate.

The plate after 3 manifolds was out 1/16" from the strong stainless pulling it out of spec.


I use 2" steel backing plate now... but if you surface the flange after welding and its still within spec-no worries.
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