93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
02-23-2015, 09:00 PM
#3444
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
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No point for oil pressure, as Mazda already has the stock location available for you. If you have a aftermarket pressure sensor as I do, just remove the OEM sender and put your aftermarket one there. No need to create more work.
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02-23-2015, 09:12 PM
#3446
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I'm not saying I'm logical...buy c'mon, that one is a given!
There ain't no rhyme or reason to my logic structure; especially when it comes to making things shiny and clean.
I have another PPF laying in my garage that I want to polish like the first and mount it on my wall. Because art.
Also procrastination of several projects on the Miata I've been avoiding as of late...
There ain't no rhyme or reason to my logic structure; especially when it comes to making things shiny and clean.
I have another PPF laying in my garage that I want to polish like the first and mount it on my wall. Because art.
Also procrastination of several projects on the Miata I've been avoiding as of late...
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02-23-2015, 09:49 PM
#3447
If you tap for oil pressure at the sandwich plate, you'll be reading the output of the oil pump. That's BEFORE potential oil pressure drops from a clogged cooler or oil filter. It could mask a critical blockage.
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02-23-2015, 10:02 PM
#3448
Uhhhh . . . .
Think about it. I know you'll come to the correct conclusion.
Hint #1 . . . our oil pans have fins for a reason.
Hint #2 . . . liquids like oil and water don't follow the ideal gas law -- they're considered "incompressible."
Hint #3 . . . even if the oil pump raised the temperature 1000F, that's still the temp going into your cooler/engine -- so wouldn't you like to know what it is?
That said, generally the difference will be on the order of 15F under light running and 30F under track conditions, so the oil pan is "good enough." Beyond absolute numbers, the main thing you want to catch on track is a bad trend (i.e., oil suddenly getting hotter for no apparent reason -- time to slow down and investigate).
Think about it. I know you'll come to the correct conclusion.
Hint #1 . . . our oil pans have fins for a reason.
Hint #2 . . . liquids like oil and water don't follow the ideal gas law -- they're considered "incompressible."
Hint #3 . . . even if the oil pump raised the temperature 1000F, that's still the temp going into your cooler/engine -- so wouldn't you like to know what it is?
That said, generally the difference will be on the order of 15F under light running and 30F under track conditions, so the oil pan is "good enough." Beyond absolute numbers, the main thing you want to catch on track is a bad trend (i.e., oil suddenly getting hotter for no apparent reason -- time to slow down and investigate).
This should be the end of the discussion. Tap your Mocal and call it a day.
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02-24-2015, 07:52 PM
#3450
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
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Let's play a game. Find the exhaust manifold leaks...no idea why it was so bad. Flanges were nilled and new gasket, nuts were and was torqued to spec. 2 studs backed out with their nuts. Resbond new studs?
This explains why AFR tuning and idle always fought me.
This explains why AFR tuning and idle always fought me.
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02-24-2015, 10:16 PM
#3455
When you mentioned this earlier I was under the impression you were speaking of raised areas of the flange that were machined into the flange. This looks like the flange warped during construction of the manifold and beads were run around areas that no longer made solid contact with the head.
This is what I thought you were talking about (clearly not the case).
This is what I thought you were talking about (clearly not the case).
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02-25-2015, 02:45 AM
#3458
Elite Member
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Location: Cedar City, UT
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I want to go back in time and slap naive me after I took a look at the flange surface. Such a shitty job that I am going to stop by the "machine" shop that did it and ask them what the hell they actually did.
OK, that makes more sense. I was a little confused by your earlier comment.
You and me both sir.
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Bryan could tell I was a little annoyed and so he sent me a very pretty picture of the latest revision to his manifold flange.
I love me some CNC ****.
When you mentioned this earlier I was under the impression you were speaking of raised areas of the flange that were machined into the flange. This looks like the flange warped during construction of the manifold and beads were run around areas that no longer made solid contact with the head.
This is what I thought you were talking about (clearly not the case).
This is what I thought you were talking about (clearly not the case).
You and me both sir.
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Bryan could tell I was a little annoyed and so he sent me a very pretty picture of the latest revision to his manifold flange.
I love me some CNC ****.
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02-25-2015, 11:02 AM
#3460
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Location: Beaverton, USA
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I had mine belt sanded and no issues so far, the major issue to me I is the cylinder 1 port. Will you post a picture looking parallel to the flange? Is the area around the cylinder port raised?
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