Thanks for the link, I read through that on my phone but will look it over again.

 

I plan on going through my HLA's on my car in the process of applying turbo. Just gotta get one first.

 

Machine shop called, valve seals are fine, I'll pick the head up this afternoon.

 

For future reference the water pump inlet/mixing manifold gasket is part number: B366-15-165

 

As I'm scraping off all the head gasket stuff I notice a lot dropping into the water/oil passages. What should I do to wash these out? Mineral spirits+drain the oil pan??

 

Yes, once you're completely finished, douse it in minteral spirits with the drain bolt removed. These are also coolant passages though, a garden hose through the mixing manifold with the radiator drain plug removed would be good here.

 

Mineral spirits in the oil cap hole?

 

More pics:





Freshly surfaced:



Gettin there:



Installed

 

It was the last head bolt too. What do I do? New block? Ez out? I need to go to bed now though, too pissed.

 

wtf!?!?


i assume this occured during final torque?

take the head back off, unless the thread somehow got bugered it should just walk right out. it looks like a fatigue failure, not like you forced it, so i dont see why youd need and ezout or new block.

that sucks even more because you proabably need another headgasket now. if you can extract it without taking the head off, them no need for another HG.

 

Yep final torque, it got easier then snap.

 

It's very unlikely it was a fatigue failure.

Much more likely that "something" was on the threads that significantly changed the friction on the thread engagement that caused the bolt to be overloaded. "Something" being oil/grease/anti-seize/coolant/water or the like.

You may have been over-torquing the bolt without knowing it. If there was a significant amount of fluid in the bolt hole, it can change the friction interaction and then more of the force of the torquing action hoes into the bolt itself and not into the clamping of the bolted joint.

Also, this bolt may have been over-stretched the last time it was installed (assuming you re-used the headbolts). Did you measure the bolts before installing?

 

you would know better than i would

maybe im misusing nomenclature, this is what i meant by fatigue. bolt was torqued past yeild in the past(or something caused it to yield) and caused the failure this time around. i would almost bet this was the bolt near the location of the leak and is what caused it in the first place. would the proper term be "yielded" luke?

aidan why you up so early?

 

Yes reused, no measured. I was going to but then I got all excited to have it back together. I didn't clean the threads well enough is my guess.

Questions:
are 1.8 head bolts the same?

If I pull the head off will the head gasket really need replacing. It was placed onto 2 clean prepped surfaces.

Will the head need to be resurfaced?

 

were any of the other bolts torqued already or was this the first one? if the gasket has already been compressed, then yes i would replace it, especially a composite(they like to pull apart when you lift the head after theyve been clamped). and yes, people have reused them after things like this with success, but i wouldnt take my chances. if the gasket wasnt compressed, then you can reuse it.

you do not need to resurface the head

 

It was the last bolt, on the last round of tightening.

What about bolts? I can't find any 1.6 bolts anywhere.

 

parts of a head gasket(fire rings, oil port) are like crush washers. they get crushed once and thats it. i would replace it, unless you want to risk doing this for a 3rd time. i know it sucks, but be glad its not a V8, i spent $250+ on 4 head gaskets on my SBC because i made a stupid mistake and had to pull the heads before it ever ran.

im not qualified to answer 1.6/1.8 bolt compatibility. ill see what i can dig up, but im sure your already researching it.

 

Good news! I put the bolt back down in the hole and started turning left. It backed right out.

Can I pull the rest of the bolts, clean the threads, and replace without taking the head gasket back off?

 

No need to do any researching, im sure someone knows off the top of their head that's why I was asking. ARP studs are the same so I would guess head bolts are too.

I was just looking for spoon feeding, this whole thing had me pretty riled up. The thought of pulling the engine again was enough to make me quit early last night.

 

i had a feeling it would come right out, i really dont think threads bound up or anything like that from the pic you posted.

i wouldnt touch the other bolts and remove the preload from the head gasket. replace that bolt, work up slowly to the torque value and slap the rest of that bitch back together. do you have a tap you can run down in there just to make sure threads are clean? drop it in there and use a 1/4" 12 point socket that fits the square end of the tap, and an extension. i hope it goes without saying: make sure you oil the head bolt heads and threads when torquing.