So if it is a hg then I obviously need a new gasket. What about fasteners and other seals?

 

If it is a hg (check valve cover gasket first) I recommended an oem hg and arp studs. Also use head gasket copper paint. I did that on mine and it has been gold I mean copper.

 

I don't think you'd use copper stuff on 1.6 composite head gaskets.

 

You'll want new OEM IM and thermostat gaskets. Might need a new EM gasket if yours is cruddy. Are you due for a timing belt/water pump? Good time to do it. Good time to do a reroute/add an oil cooler/clean and match the fuel injectors too. List can go on and on. I'm terrible about that.

Cleanliness and flatness are the keys to HG success!! And, yeah, don't use any type of RTV/sealant on a composite HG.

 

I did it on my 1.8. Been working great. What's the reason not to do it. I figured it would help fill in any of the imperfections in the cylinder head or block.

 

**** never mind realized I used an mls

 

Are arp studs really required? This isn't a built motor.

If you go back a few pages I already have a rerout and cleaned injectors. This motor was out of the car 2 months ago.

Should I take the head to get checked for flatness?

Thanks josh.

 

If the head comes off, it definitely needs to be milled. My head guy cleans it, surfaces it, replaces valve seals, grinds valve guides, paints it with aluminum paint, and pressures tests. All for $225.

 

That's more than I want to spend on a 1.6 head. Any idea what just a surface costs. (Clackamas auto store right?)

 

For track duty, ARPs and MLS (which requires surface prep to both block and head). For street duty, OEM bolts and composite have given reliable service up to 12psi. That's a sample size of 1. LOL.

The fact that you have a leak tells me you should get the head milled like Josh suggested. That $225 he quoted sounds like a bargain to me. Clean/inspect the block carefully too, although they are cast iron and usually fine.

 

I don't think this 1.6 is going to stay long so this is going to be done on the cheap. I'm thinking OEM studs, gasket. Surface the head.

 

Local engine shop said 70 to clean and surface, 115 if I don't pull the cam myself. Are new cam seals required? If I determine its a head gasket looks like I'm at 100 minimum. Add in valve stem seals and it goes up.

Looks like I might be learning how to remove camshafts too yay!

 

Hydraulic cams. They just bolt in. Respect the tightening sequence. Really easy.

 

Once the front caps are off, the seals fall out. If they're still pliable and don't look like they've been leaking, they're probably still good.

 

Thanks guys.

Little side project. 25$ GPS chip + 7$ Bluetooth chip = cheap external Bluetooth receiver. I'm probably going to 3d print a case and sell a couple in the near future.

 

GPS is working:

 

i want a case

 

For sure. Want me to put a whole module together for you and we can finish out our trade?

 

works for me

 

Sounds good Should be a week or so. Need to figure out the best way to power it. Mini-usb would be perfect but adds space, I might just leave 2 wires hanging out and leave it up to you to find power.