Greatest f%#%ing gauges ever! Super jelly right now!

 

Picture dump from pulling the head:

Cylinder 1:



2 and 3:



4:



Bolts:



I found it interesting that some bolts were covered in oil and others weren't.

Grime on one of the bolts:



Ok so the head is at the machine shop. What do I do to the cylinders and block surface while I have it off. What is the best way to clean them.

Anything I need to be careful of when re-assembling?

Also I could tell that my CAS o-ring was about to start leaking out the back, can I get a thicker one or something? I might see if Ed can get me an OEM one.

 

Shoot me the part number.

There is, however, going to be a point where they start asking how many Miatas I own since I've been using my employee pricing on everything

 

And cylinder pictures:

 

To be fair you owned 2 until about a week ago.

And nvm, OEM doesn't seem any better, I might just try a thicker one.

 

sticking with composite right?

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...stalled-65074/

 

Going with whatever the dealer sells. Which I don't actually have yet. Getting it from Ed tonight.

 

figure out what that is first. the prep for the head will be differnt for each type, and i assume the block would be too. and reagrding the head, you need to make sure your mahinist knows which type he is prepping for.

 

Getting this one: GASKET,CYL. HEAD (B6F4-10-271B) - $43.14 - B6F410271B

 

someone correct me if im wrong, but im 99% sure thats a composite

 

There is some back and forth in that thread, some people say just a razor blade, others say sand paper.

 

to be honest, ive never used that method. i have done more headgaskets than i can remember and have always used a razor blade to get to clean metal, then "sterilize" the surface with brake clean, leave absolutely no oil/grease/build up or old gasket behind. ive had not one HG fail on me, but they were all composite on (with the exception of a supercharged 3.8 that i can recall)N/A vehicles.

i like the sandpaper method as it cleans and "resurfaces" the block, but i dont see why either method wouldnt work well.

 

I'll just sit there with some razor blades and get it all clean, need to go pick up some brake clean and seafoam to clean the pistons.

 

do pack the rings with grease, or something equivalent to keep crap from getting in the rings/ring lands. i always used a grease or oil soaked rag. and please note my obligatory ninja edit.

 

When I pulled the head I had some carbon and coolant drop into the cylinders, will this be an issue?

 

Also should I do anything with the HLA's? Soak in cleaner, re-oil, etc?

 

get out what you can, wet/dry vac first, followed by compressed air. do an oil change when your done.

weve had customers whos engines ingested sooo much **** it was ludacris, or let coolant sit in the holes for months, so the bores were super rusty. some didnt want to pay for us to pull the bottom end apart to clean everything out and just had us do the headgasket, and not one of those engines had an issue that im aware of. im amazed at what some engines can take. obviuosly this is no excuse to not do it right, but jut some anecdote for ya.

 

That's what I was hoping to hear. No excuse to not clean it well but something to make it less stressful. First time this far in an engine.

 

unfortunately, i have no hard science for that and usually didnt touch HLAs on customers cars, just replaced them if they had issues. i have no miata specific experience with HLAs, although i helped one of the shop helpers with his 323 from the early 90, i cant remember if it was a b6 or what though. on one of my nissan KA24s, i painstakingly pulled everyone of those apart and cleaned and reoiled them. it was a fuking bitch, but they were $30 a piece from beckarnly, and more than double that from nissan, and a few were collapsed from 175k of "wife oil change intervals".

 

You could give this a read through if you want.
http://www.miata.net/garage/hla/cleaning.html