Annnnnd that's backwards.

At least from how I've mounted it, tap flips back for me, not forward.

Although the way you've mounted it is kinda useful, you can paint/sticker/nail polish the tap a bright color so see it before you drive off with the hood open.

 

Instructions say try and put the smaller part forward, but I don't think it actually mattered. I looked at yours and a bunch of others and decided to go this way. It was definitely harder to cut out the underside but oh well.

Also holy **** aluminum dust goes everywhere. I'm going to be cleaning this stuff for a while.

 

Update to the list:

To-Do:

1. Inconel studs (most likely 10mm OEM, not sure if thats rx-7 or something nissan)
2. Exhaust bracing. (Ordered a 3 inch exhaust clamp)
3. Locking downpipe bolts (ordered but amazon still hasn't sent them, cancelled and switched to summit)
4. Seats + Harness + back braces (Drivers side harness + seat installed minus back brace)
5. Install new springs (550 Front, 350 rear)
6. Oil+water temp guages. (Going with a VEI systems gauge)
9. Put beads on intercooler pipes (Probably DIY: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org, unless someone local knows somewhere to get it done cheap)
11. Find diff leak.
12. Heat Shielding. (master cylinder, brake lines)
13. Tune.
14. Break stuff.
15. Manifold relief cuts

Done:

8. Hardtop (Got one)
7. Helmet (Going to continue to run my open face helmet and wait for sa-2015)
10. Find coolant leak. (risky to put this here but so far I haven't lost any coolant)

 

Also thinking about getting some of these:

Toggle Latch Lock Medium Size Adjustable Type | eBay

And DIYing some side latches for my hardtop.

 

What aluminum seat was that? I missed where you said what company makes it. I really like it.

 

It's an ultra shield. I drove to Seattle and back this weekend (3 hours each way) and all I needed was a bit of extra foam right under my *** bone. Otherwise super comfortable.

 

New item on the list: Brake ducts, DIY or purchased, time will decide that.

 

Update to the list:

To-Do:

1. Inconel studs (most likely 10mm OEM, not sure if thats rx-7 or something nissan)
2. Exhaust bracing. (Ordered a 3 inch exhaust clamp)
3. Locking downpipe bolts (ordered but amazon still hasn't sent them, cancelled and switched to summit)
4. Seats + Harness + back braces (Drivers side harness + seat installed minus back brace, also fender washers to prevent tearout.)
5. Install new springs (550 Front, 350 rear)
6. Oil+water temp guages. (Going with a VEI systems gauge)
9. Put beads on intercooler pipes (Probably DIY: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org, unless someone local knows somewhere to get it done cheap)
11. Find diff leak.
12. Heat Shielding. (master cylinder, brake lines)
13. Tune.
14. Break stuff.
15. Manifold relief cuts


Done:

8. Hardtop (Got one)
7. Helmet (Going to continue to run my open face helmet and wait for sa-2015)
10. Find coolant leak. (risky to put this here but so far I haven't lost any coolant)

 

How normal is the smell of burning oil after a boost pull? I used to think it was because of my dipstick but I have a check valve in the pcv line and it doesn't pop anymore. I'm also very slowly losing oil. Compression check?

 

If you ruined Laz's old motor already I'll be really disappointed... I ran the **** out of that thing with no issues, please tell me how you managed to ruin it already... for shame sir, for shame.

 

It's called boost. Plus, if you beat on it a ton then even more reason it'd be toast.

Compression test.

 

No oil smoke at all though which makes me think its a leak. I've done the engine brake then accelerate test and get no smoke so I don't think its the rings.

Also its not something new, I've had it since I first put the turbo in, maybe even before.

 

And were talking almost no oil lost. The oil stayed gold looking until at least 1000 miles since the swap, and its barely brown now. I have no reason to think its the motor, I'm guessing pressurized crank case or need an oil restrictor.

 

I'm going to first try routing the exhaust breather hole to a catch can, then get a gtx pcv valve.

Maybe Ed will let me borrow his compression tester this weekend.

 

Compression test last night. Pretty sure I did it right lol. The Autozone gauge was pretty hard to read but everything was within 10psi of the other. With these numbers the oil smell must be coming from somewhere else right?

170
180
180
175

 

Yeah those are great numbers. This was no plugs, WOT, and 5 compression pumps?

 

Damn, I didn't count the pumps. But yes no plugs wot. This was until it stopped jumping like 5psi per pump. Somewhere between 5 and 8 though. If I have time I'll do it again tonight. But they all climbed the same so I think my oil smell is something else. Right now I'm thinking valve cover or turbo related. Might try a catch can off the exhaust breather first though.

 

Also how the hell do you tighten the compression tester all the way into the cylinder, just twist the hose really tight?

 

Yeah, just twist it. Most have an o-ring. Doesn't have to be super tight, just right enough to seal. You're not really looking at the numbers unless it's a super expensive gauge, just comparing the numbers.

There's a finite amount of places where you can leak. I'd look extremely close at oil feed and oil drain, since that's close to the exhaust. If not there, then route the PVC lines to the intake side, let them dump on the ground, or into an incredibly well vented bottle, to catch and measure any output. Then work on a catch can solution if the smell goes away. But with a properly operation pcv valve, you should be able to leave the intake side stock, and the exhaust side VTA, until you start racing, usually with higher hp.

 

Compression test: