I'm not sure what you want a picture of. You raise the lower spring perch to elevate the car and allow more travel.

 

But on the BC coilovers you raise the car by lengthening the shock. so you twist the bottom mount effectively screwing it in. you dont touch the springs at all

like this

Adjusting BC Coilovers (Lowering Ride Height))

 

Finally fixed the iat issue. Turns out the ground wire wasnt earthing at all. Cleaned out the earths and now its perfect. Took hours to figure out haha

Also fitted the rack spacers

Gotta track it badly!

 

What's the idea behind rack spacers?

 

Well when you lower the car the steering rack comes with it but the track rod end stay at the same height So then you get a fairly serious angle between the rack and the track rod ends that can cause bump ster and heavy steering.

 

Gotcha. That's what I'd thought when looking at it, but I wasn't sure.

 

First I've heard of the rack spacer. Is this just for slammed cars, or when does this start to help?

 

I wouldnt say my car is as slammed as most. but it is quite low. the angle was pretty severe and it did give bump steer, but not anymore. just have a look at the angle of your track rod ends.

Blew my first gear box last night. it appears to be stuck in fifth gear although the gear stick moves around like there are no gears at all.

 

Sounds like you broke a shift fork. You should be more gentle.

 

I agree man, i was too hard on it while changing gear.

Does anyone have an exploded diagram of a g/box? Cant find one online. I have a second box in the garage that i could use parts out of to make one out of two

 

Gearbox sorted and im running 0.9 bar as of last night. everything seems ok, afrs and duty cycle etc are normal.

i couldnt do a full pull in second because it was pissing rain and my tyres aren't the best. log attached

 

Put her on the dyno this week. I guess I'm happy. Timing still needs tuning so there's more in her I hope. Lots and lots of little improvements to be made I need a knock sensor so I can change the timing its still pretty much stock timing map but the dyno man changed a few cells while still staying safe. 200 HP is still weak though. Baby steps I guess

Not sure if you can see from the picture but boost stays quite level.

I'll scan it in on Tuesday at work but for now its attached


What are the thoughts?

 

Were you datalogging during the pull? That could tell us a few things about your tune.

 

Yep i datalogged it.

181hp Run

this is my AFR Table


and the timing map i was using


200hp Run

this is the timing map that dyno man came up with



and the AFR Table after he had a look at it


I've also attached the log, msq and both dyno sheets. one with my tune and the other with his.

any thoughts?

 

Your datalog shows a 18.7 degrees of spark advance at 6710 rpm and then only 7 degrees at 7000 rpm. Do you have it set to retard spark starting at 6900 or something?


EDIT: and your actual AFRs during the run look good but the targets he set look a bit lean for my conservative tastes from 180kpa and up.

 

Sounds like a spark retard soft limiter.

 

on the money there man. i have the soft limiter set at 6500. its what was there from day one.

what do you think the afrs should b after .8 Sixshooter?

and the fact that my max power is at 6500 does that have anything to do with the soft limiter? should my top end be later?

 

Looks like you'll squeak out a few more ponies if you remove the soft limiter. If you look at your torque curve, it moves down until ~6500 and then takes another turn down there, right after your peak HP.

I think the general consensus on the forum from what I have read is to shoot for 11.8 above light boost.

 

What would you consider as light boost?

 

made a mistake on the rev limiter in the previous post. its 6800.