Congratulations. Any intention of finishing the garage walls, or will you just leave them bare like that?

 

Jack - I probably won't do much. It's a rental property.


Alright guys - Sorry for the lack of updates lately. This is unusual for my car to be down for this long even after such a catastrophic failure.

But I has good excuse.. A real game changer for me... I moved out of my apartment into a house. 3 bedroom, 2 car garage. It's on.

I have a lot of work to do....


This turd is about to shine... I bought 6x 6000k shop lights to hang from the ceiling to brighten the place up and I'm currently working on making steel top benches. Then I'll be running 220 into the garage to support the welder and the air compressor.



Side note - I'm going to order this for my car.



And I picked up my block and pistons from the machine shop.. They had this 3800hp slug sitting next to mine just to make me feel bad... My piston is basically smaller than the valve relief... :(

 

That's going to be sooo nice. I remember the first time I had my own garage, I was so excited. Then we moved to an acreage 3 years ago and I got one with heat attached to the house and I was even more excited.
I see the planes and saw a Revo earlier. What do you have ? I love R/C cars. I've got a Hot Bodies D8T, a Losi XXL and a Muggy and then the only electric is a 1st gen EMaxx with an early edition Novak Brushless. Out where I am I can scream the nitro's with no worries. I turn the throttle down for the kids and friends.
Say how's your Canadian Import/Export business going Mr. Vandaley?

 

Got the bay all ready to drop in. Taking my sweet time as you guys can tell from the lack of updates. I've been very busy lately building a couple of engines.



Motor built... No bs this time you guys have seen it before. Unfortunately not too long ago.



While the motor was out I welded up the spring shaft in my de-powered rack. Should feel 1000 times better.



Dropped the motor in, pretty basic stuff here.



Bolting up the pretty stuff.





Oh yeah and I bought one of these: Sparco Pro ADV

 

Ballin'


SO glad to see updates. You rock.

 

HE'S BACK!!

Glad you're back to wrenching on the car Bryan

 

Awesome work as usual. Good luck fitting that seat though. You might have to cut off the left shoulder bolster

 

Your girlfriend should really dye her hair blonde for this thread. Or you should build a brunette young beefcake.

 

So wheres my airbox I paid for SIX WEEKS AGO?

 

Looks awesome! Really like that seat but I'm curious about the fitment as well.

 

Just put the first 20 miles on the motor tonight. Ran great. Looks like its probably still pretty well tuned from the dyno.

Chili - I thought I shipped it before my move - I'll take a look in the garage in the morning and try to get it out at lunch.

 

in4 dyno

 

What oil are you using for break-in? I recommend the Brad Penn break in oil. Straight 30w with their break-in additive package.

 

I'm actually using Joe Gibbs Driven BR30. Brad Penn oil does not use the new synthetic mPAO base and the detergent/zinc ratio is not really what I'm looking for.

I'd rather have higher zinc and lower detergents. Many people do not understand that detergents are also a polar molecule designed to remove everything, even ZINC from the surfaces in your engine.

Detergent additives compete against zinc in the engine because they are polar molecules as well. Detergents clean the engine, but they don’t know the difference between carbon buildup, silicon (dirt) and zinc so they clean all of them away.

I'll continue to run Joe Gibbs oil for the following reasons:
-ZINC vs Detergent ratio
-mPAO base means better viscosity stability. This basically means it's got a great viscosity index, it holds the proper viscosity at lower and higher temps which equates to the oil getting to the bearings sooner at start-up and it staying as thick as it should when I'm beating the **** out of the car on a track.
-mPAO base releases air 5x faster than any other synthetic oil base (fewer tiny air bubbles).
-Since the oil is being formulated for Nascar which is now running a percentage of Ethanol in their fuels, Joe Gibbs utilizes an oil film technology developed that they originally for the U.S. military. Not a Nascar fan but you can’t say that those aren’t some of the hardest driven engines around.

 

Thanks Bryan, great answer. I never thought of the detergent package competing with the zinc. Too late, I already used the Brad Penn. But I was considering Schaeffer's synthetic but it sounds like the Joe Gibbs oil has its own advantages. Time to hit the search button.

 

I use Brad Penn religiously. One of the local speed shops sells it for $5.25/qt. For that price I'll just change it twice as often.

 

It's priced very well. Can't beat it for the price and honestly it's great oil. I wont knock it, I'm just going with Gibbs on this one.

 

Bryan's pretty good at taking care of his customers all over this continent, right.

 

So you are saying you do things regardless of what science and actual facts tell you? Not really a good argument when talking chemicals.


btw that was a knock at religion, not your choice of oil.

 

To be honest, $5.25/quart for racing oil is so cheap I cant blame him. I'm seriously considering dropping money on Joe Gibbs oil for the first synthetic change in my car, I mean its getting driven like less than 1k mile/year at this point.