Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky
My car will be getting a 12 cell once I get everything sorted out. The trouble with them is terminals. If you put brass or steel terminal posts on them you increase the weight considerably (mainly because the damn thing is so light). I also dont want to hack off my stock terminals in case I ever need to throw in a normal battery.
The battery is pretty much just along for the ride once the car is started. The alternator is the important bit.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 754
Total Cats: 68
From: Royal Oak Michigan
Meh - I ran a smaller battery in the past.. When My car sits at the track between sessions and is hot enough for the two fans to be running it had trouble starting.. Not worth the 6lbs of weight. Now I'm running a bigger battery and the fans don't run unless my ECU shows 300+ rpm.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 754
Total Cats: 68
From: Royal Oak Michigan
Installed my Quik-Latches this weekend – And my new throw out bearing.
So I now have the FM level 2 clutch with a custom 6 puck ceramic sprung disc. While I was swapping the clutch in I decided to replace the throw out bearing. BIG MISTAKE. Turns out the FM level 2 comes with an upgraded bearing that is intended to take the abuse of the serious pressure plate that they include.
This was a brand new OE bearing after about 100 miles:

Thanks to the guys at Flyin Miata I finally tracked down a bearing and here is the difference.



Tossed this guy in and decided to install my Quik Latches:

There was actually already a pretty good spot – Remove the plastic retainer and install the quik latch stud.

Drilled the holes and we were good to go.



It now takes me about 30 seconds to remove my front clip…
Since my manifold is out being coated at Dart I took the time to clean the under side of my hood..

Calling it a weekend.. I’ll keep you guys updated when the manifold shows up. Should be cool – Inside and outside ceramic blended coating.
So I now have the FM level 2 clutch with a custom 6 puck ceramic sprung disc. While I was swapping the clutch in I decided to replace the throw out bearing. BIG MISTAKE. Turns out the FM level 2 comes with an upgraded bearing that is intended to take the abuse of the serious pressure plate that they include.
This was a brand new OE bearing after about 100 miles:

Thanks to the guys at Flyin Miata I finally tracked down a bearing and here is the difference.



Tossed this guy in and decided to install my Quik Latches:

There was actually already a pretty good spot – Remove the plastic retainer and install the quik latch stud.

Drilled the holes and we were good to go.



It now takes me about 30 seconds to remove my front clip…
Since my manifold is out being coated at Dart I took the time to clean the under side of my hood..

Calling it a weekend.. I’ll keep you guys updated when the manifold shows up. Should be cool – Inside and outside ceramic blended coating.
RE11 or RE11A? The A is supposed to be pretty outstanding and the underdog that no one is really talking about from the new crop of ST tires. The normal RE11 is kind of like the slightly less good at everything brother of the star spec.
Its about the same performance wise. But its louder on the street and IMO not as good on the street in the rain. But that is moot now since you cant get star specs any more and I doubt there are many normal RE11s left.
So I'm guessing that TOB can be ordered through FM, how much? Can it be used with any clutch?
With such a bitch to replace part, ebay units fail, etc, I'm surprised this is the first I'm hearing about it.
With such a bitch to replace part, ebay units fail, etc, I'm surprised this is the first I'm hearing about it.








