Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
Forget helicoil. When threading into aluminum you want to increase the area that you are distributing the force over. The helicoils do not greatly increase the hole size. Using something like a threadcert where you drill and tap a 1/2-13 hole for a 3/8-16 threadcert allows you to get much more better strength out of the bolted connection. I did a lot of testing on this and found that if you have at least 10mm thick alu you can get the 3/8-16 fasteners to work very well with 30 ft/lb recommended torque. They will strip at >50 ft/lb so there is little margin for heman torqing.
I have sold my last two sets with no inserts and no complaints. Just make sure you use torque wrench. I have installed and removed my set close to 10 times with no issues.
I have sold my last two sets with no inserts and no complaints. Just make sure you use torque wrench. I have installed and removed my set close to 10 times with no issues.
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lake Forest, CA
<p>I'm still feeling annoyed that I didn't see the V8R Dynapro kit that doesn't require spacers before I ordered my Dynalight spacers-required kit from 949 for $40 more....</p><p> </p><p>
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--Ian
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
<p>Don't they just put the caliper farther inboard of the hub? doesn't seem that hard to do with a custom hat.</p><p>Hey sean, thanks for stopping by, hearing from people like you is really helpful for us less track experienced people.</p><p>Do we need another thread title change?</p>
How much taper are you seeing >1/16" front to rear? I would only be concerned if you are getting so much taper that you have to trash a pad that still has a ton of material left on it.
Edit. Sorry posted before I saw the pic. That is more taper than I would expect.
I need to try Sean's idea of rotating pads to extend life. Easy enough to do when rotating the tires.
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
<p>@Lincoln Logs, so switching to dynapros *completely* alleviated the taper issue? Or just made it less shitty?</p>
Dynapro pads are a little more expensive. Quick search showed about $20 more for a set of DTC-60 pads compared to Dynalite pads. The pads appear to have the same area so it is not like you get more pad volume or area for increased pad life.
I also read that you see much less pad taper with more aggressive/higher coefficient of friction pads since you are applying less pressure and deforming the caliper more when using a pad with low coefficient of friction. Makes sense. Proper ducting and cooling will reduce taper as well.
I would like to see how much pad taper is seen with DTC-60 pads that most people seem to use.
I also read that you see much less pad taper with more aggressive/higher coefficient of friction pads since you are applying less pressure and deforming the caliper more when using a pad with low coefficient of friction. Makes sense. Proper ducting and cooling will reduce taper as well.
I would like to see how much pad taper is seen with DTC-60 pads that most people seem to use.
<p>@Lincoln Logs, so switching to dynapros *completely* alleviated the taper issue? Or just made it less shitty?</p>
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
<p>Good to know, thanks for the info.</p><p>I'm really leaning towards dynapros.</p><p>Have the dynapros changed over the years? Or if I find some used circle track calipers will they be the same.</p>
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From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ







. I thought they also might have been thicker</p>