No PS/AC FTW.

Just get the VHT, the BBQ paint is no cheaper. I just picked it up because I liked the idea aluminum color instead of silver or black, and I was at ACE hardware, not a car parts store.

 

I hate wastegate flex. So here's my solution, hopefully it'll work out. Still have to cut it to length, deburr it, and possibly paint it.




I do have to stretch it a bit to slip it on, think it'll cause over boosting issues? I'm not sure what it's built for, but I'm aiming for 12ish psi, so I hope this is a 7-8psi can.

 

Annnnnndddddd done. Well, running at least.






Only victim in the test drive was a leaking water hose with a clamp I forgot to tighten. I'll eventually replace the whole length with one piece to get rid of the connection and to use better hose.

Here's the start of my heat shield. Dunno if I'm actually going to use license plates or if they're just for mock up. The water line will obviously go behind the heat shield. Held on with aluminum and angle iron eventually.

 

I like the plates, I vote they stay!

 

Nice, I used my front license plate for a heatshield too. I was pulled over for no front plate so I opened the hood to show the occifer, but they were burned. Got a ticket anyway.

 

Hmm, they're off a 1952 Chevy pickup, the first project vehicle my dad and I worked on together. They're kind of special (excuse the pun). I don't want them to get burned, but I don't mind bending them...we'll see.

 

Manifold and DP are not stainless? Looks DAMN good either way!

 

No, abe says it's more expensive, and even the best stainless (that can be used on a manifold) will eventually rust. So I went with mild, and painted only the manifold. The dp is partially stainless steel, I saw at least a few "SS 3xxx" tags on the pieces abe welded together, not sure if it's all stainless though. It's unpainted and will hopefully be okay.

 

Even on his stainless DPs he uses non-stainless for the flange (warp prevention?). At least that's what he was doing a few years back.

This was confirmed when I tried 'pickling' the exhaust not realizing the flange wasn't stainless ... the flange oxidized like a **** while the 3XX SS tubing looked untouched.

If it were mine, I'd at least coat the flange seeing as mines managed to rust sitting inside a garage for a year and a half unused.

-Zach

 

do you not have a prop valve?

 

He's running it near the trans tunnel I believe ... the info is in a brake thread somewhere.

-Zach

 

I run "all of it" with my brakes.

Must find shittyest pictar for the brain...



Obviously there's no bipes anymore, but the center console is in right now, covering the bias control. It only comes out for race days, since I can actually daily the car now that it has MS. If I really want to.

 

Curly, regarding that actuator arm. That's how mine looked on my gt2560 and it WAS overboosting. BUT, that wasn't the cause, it's should have a little pressure on it to keep it shut.

 

Sounds right, because it's been running perfectly.

Here's a pic of my log, I haven't used megalog viewer in a while, is O2 supposed to be my AFR?



From the moment I stabbed the throttle to the max MAP reading is 4 time units in MLV, what is that, .4 seconds? This little SR20 is fast! Looking at the log and my tune, I have three rows of unused fuel cells up top. What's 150? I can't seem to manipulate the numbers to get the 7 or 8 psi it should be at. Once I up it to 10psi, which should be right around 200hp, I'll scale the fuel table to have only one row for a safety margin and be able to have a little extra resolution.

Found out my #4 injector is leaking, so with a choppy idle, I purchased $60 in injector seals () to take care of it before anything happens. Steep yes, but I wanna do around 3 track days this summer, so I want this taken care of now.

Otherwise after welding a few leaks in the exhaust and going for an hour long drive, nothing went wrong and the car is an absolute blast. I'll be tinkering around with the heat shield and a few other minor things until my injector seals come in on the 11th :(

 

Not what you want to see after a nice summer's drive:


In the past month or two, I've fixed:

leaky front main seal
leaky CAS o-ring
leaky oil cooler fitting (pass side)
leaky fuel injectors (didn't fix it)

and today was:

leaky fuel rail (that fixed it)
leaky oil cooler fitting (driver's side)
leaky coolant line.

All of that of course, on the day I sign up for a track day 4 weeks out.

Oh well, for the time being it's all leak free. Except the transmission, which needs it's output seal replaced

 

Did that line really back itself out from the fitting?

 

Yup, hadn't touched a damn thing when I took the picture, aside from opening the hood.

Noticed it was over heating 1.5 miles from home, turned the fans on, heater on full, backed WAY off, and prayed it wasn't anything horrible. Unfortunately I was lured into a false sense of security when my mechanical gauge started to read lower when I turned the fans on. I think the fans just cooled the sensor, since it's right behind them. Lame.

I also have no idea if it was over heating before I noticed the gauges. I tend to be extremely observant, but you never know. I went back in my DD and searched the last 5 miles of my trip twice and found no indication of a huge puddle of coolant. I'm hoping it was only a slow leak, so there was still some coolant circulating till I was close to home.

Unfortunately the line runs behind the license plate and then takes a 90* turn towards my water source (intake manifold), and is under a little bit of tension. So as soon as it came loose, it was pried apart, as shown in the picture.

 

Awesome.

T25 > Churbo.

 

im running pretty much the same as this set up.. did you just remove the coolant pipe from under the mani and loop it around?

how do you find the T25? any lag? whats the boost threshold like?

Cheers Curly

 

I'll address these one at a time.

The mixing manifold, which is what the hard line under the stock manifold goes into, was flipped 180* with a 90* hose and piece of straight pipe used to connect it to the lower radiator outlet. The old hole where the pipe entered needs a plate welded on top.

In that straight piece of pipe used I inserted a T connection to connect the old heater line.

You can see that T connection here:

The stock water line outlet was pulled out, tapped for 1/8 NPT and a hose barb threaded in for the turbo coolant feed.

I found the T25 in the classifieds here.

Once you're above 3,000 rpm, which is basically any time cruising around the street or on the track, the boost builds almost immediately. Unless you're bashing your foot down, it builds pretty much just as fast as you apply the throttle.

Not sure what you're asking about with the boost threshold question. It's at 5psi by 2800rpms, 10psi by 3200.