Okay I'm thinking about this more... Is there anyone here besides ArTech that could build me a 1.6 bottom mount manifold? (Aka, cheaper than ArTech and BEGI)

 

Flip a greedy manifold dawg, i heard they bawsss.

 

You mean I CAN'T use a 1.8 manifold on a 1.6? Who would've thought!

 

Greedy manifolds are available for 1.8s?

 

I was just adding to the sarcastic ridiculousness :P

 

Sell manifold and downpipe. Then buy begi or fm manifold/dp combo. PROFIT!!!

 

Wellllll looks like that's sorta what I decided to do. Check out the classified section to see my stuff for sale!

 

THIS THREAD AIN'T DEAD!

Just to A) keep things chronological B) **** you all off, and C) prove I am not completely retarded, I'm going to turn this into my build thread. After a long time without a post, I've finally gotten all my parts together. Here's the details:

ArTech Greddy replacement Manifold and DP (this stuff is so friggen nice!)
The good ol' Greddy 15g turbo, but with a 19g coldside and rebuild a few thousand miles ago. Came with the oil/coolant lines too.
Ghetto intercooler setup, but already assembled and read to fit by the previous owner. Already has the IAT and BOV installed too.
eBay HKS BOV... not necessary but I want to swap it out for the already installed BOV at some point.
Innovate MTX-L Wideband (I did it, woohoo!)
Chinese Boost gauge (it cost $6 after shipping. Horrible? Maybe. Awesome? Definitely).
Chinese gauge pods (also $6 for 2... epic).
RX7 460cc injectors, just came back from WitchHunter and got a clean and flow.
Drill and tap.
Ghetto but awesome custom made air intake from the previous owner of the turbo stuff.
MS3X (go big or go home) built by Brain.
EBC Solenoid.
And a smidge of vacuum line, although I need some more.

Okay... I think thats it! Is there any sort of little piece I am forgetting? I definitely overshot the budget I was going for of $2000, but I'm right around $2400 for all this stuff, including shipping and all that jazz. And, its nice gear - no more $400 eBay turbo kits. I'm proud of myself so far.

I plan on installing everything at once - the turbo stuff, intercooler, and MS; because the MS will need the IAT and Wideband to run correctly, so I can't install it first and then do the turbo later. I would start off with REALLY low boost (4 psi) to be safe and then work up to 6psi after some tuning. Any input on this process?

In the process of getting the parts together I bought a rebuilt SR20 turbo, BEGi S4 downpipe (PO didn't tell me it was S4) and intercooler with piping that I obviously won't be using (oops). Buy them from me?

Also, I just want to say thank you all for the tough love and help with this so far, even if ya'll gave me -30 props in the process (that HAS to be some sort of record) and slathered this thread with those weird gay GIFs that I still can't get out of my head.

Now... on to the build next week, with pictures to come!

 

> Chinese Boost gauge (it cost $6 after shipping. Horrible? Maybe. Awesome? Definitely).

Will also be VERY inaccurate, anywhere between 20-30%, I don't trust any cheap Chinese gauges.

If you're just after an "Awesome" looking gauge, then you probably don't care.

 

As long as its inaccurate every time its ok. You got the map sensor. See how inaccurate it is and set that as the target.

For the shitty bov. Take it apart and lube the **** out of it if you expect it to last more than a week.

 

Haha, no, it doesn't even look awesome, I was just referring to it being awesome cause it's $6.

And triple88, you're right, and that's exactly what I was thinking. In this case I'll probably swap it out for an auto meter eventually, but just wanted to give it a try.

Which BOV are you referring to? (Lol). The one that's one the system now was actually used on a car that was making 34psi, believe it or not.

 

eBay HKS BOV... not necessary but I want to swap it out for the already installed BOV at some point

 

I installed the Boost and Wideband gauges yesterday. My $6 gauge pod set did will with a little modification. I didn't want to drill into my dash for the holes, so I took a chunk out of the gauge cluster... it actually looks kinda cool.

The gauges are sideways because I didn't actually mount them yet and it was dark by the time I was done installing.

 

That looks terrible, why didn't you just do a console/vent mount? Even a-pillar gauges would be better.

 

It will look better when I actually mount the gauges and pods in the right place. I don't like A-pillars because the gauges are too in-you-face and/or ruins your view, and I can't use the vent mount since I NEED the heat in Upstate NY. I was thinking about doing the gauge below the aftermarket radio mount but whats the point of having gauges out of your line of sight?

This was the simplest way to work around those and I don't think it looks totally awful. Plus I can always change it.

 

Because then no one else will see them and think he has racecar. Duh.

Obviously he did not check the price of gauge hood, either, else he would know that it's a benjamin to replace the cut one with a clean used one.

 

Console mount is the place to be for diagnostic but non-critical gauges. In your face is the proper location for critical gauges.

 

I already have an extra one sitting around, I appreciate your concern though

 

I agree, if I had a voltage meter that would happily go in the center console. But, these are the only two gauges that really matter that I will be adding. I thought this was a fine compromise.

 

Buy AEM Failsafe, have both gauges in one, put it in the passenger side vent if you need the heat.