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Old 07-17-2013, 09:58 AM   #121
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:42 PM   #122
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Schweet! I got a used BEGI downpipe! (thanks Wuga). Only thing is it for a 1.8, so a little fab will probably have to be done.

Now we can move onto the wideband, guys
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:47 PM   #123
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MTX-L

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Old 07-18-2013, 01:04 AM   #124
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Haha, you must be a coder...

I'm liking the Innovate right now, but the install and setup of use with the AEM is drawing my attention. Also, I don't know how many people have had faulty MTX-L's vs. LC-1's. I know the LC-1's had some problems but haven't found much on reliability on the MTX-L. So I guess thats a good thing?
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:20 AM   #125
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Yeah...I donno the big deal about LC-1's. Mine's been running perfect since I got it (used) and wired (grounded) it correctly. Either way, get whichever one you prefer and install it correctly, and you shouldn't have any issues. The people who have issues tend to shortcut their installs. I recently read of someone who had their ecu and sensors powered and grounded through the stereo...
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:38 AM   #126
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:O well I guess that's a good reason to buy a new wideband and ECU instead of used, lol!

Yeah I always love the threads that read "im not rlly good at electroncs lolz how do u wire my ECU not working I tried everything"
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:49 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds1 View Post
I know the LC-1's had some problems but haven't found much on reliability on the MTX-L. So I guess thats a good thing?
The LC-1s had some problems with people not reading the instructions and understanding how to properly power and ground them.

If installed correctly, they ******* rock. I replaced the AEM UEGO on my '92 with an LC-1 after I got tired of the jittery output, the calibration drift, and the unreadable display.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:03 AM   #128
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If installed correctly, they ******* rock. I replaced the AEM UEGO on my '92 with an LC-1 after I got tired of the jittery output, the calibration drift, and the unreadable display.
Yeah that's the thing I never understood about the AEM crowd. They say its better, but it has slower response time and averages values... What the heck is the point, then? (Considering this is basically the most important gauge ever, as I learned by being yelled at earlier).

I'll give it until morning and see if anyone can sway my to AEM. If not, I'll be a new MTX-L fanboy
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:12 AM   #129
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I don't consider myself part of any "crowd". I have had AEM in both my FM kits. And now I have another with the greddy. I might be missing out, but for a street car I doubt it. They have been rock solid.

To be honest get whatever you want lol. I'm not trying to sway opinions here. I'm just saying I don't think that you will really notice a difference.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:28 AM   #130
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:O well I guess that's a good reason to buy a new wideband and ECU instead of used, lol!
Eh, you'll save money buying used, but only if the timing is right. The deals tend to sell quick.

My used LC-1 had been running on the original sensor for a little over three years with no issues. I replaced the sensor recently, but that was just because it was cheap insurance at $40. The LC-1 is still rock solid (even better after a brand new sensor and calibration); it was the TPS was shot and throwing off my tune.

If I ever upgrade, it will be the MTX-L. Unless it's changed, the only bad part about the LC-1 is that I could not find a gauge to blend with the interior. I ended up removing the cover from a white G3 gauge and coloring in the display with red marker to blend with the interior.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:13 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds1 View Post
Yeah that's the thing I never understood about the AEM crowd. They say its better, but it has slower response time and averages values... What the heck is the point, then? (Considering this is basically the most important gauge ever, as I learned by being yelled at earlier).

I'll give it until morning and see if anyone can sway my to AEM. If not, I'll be a new MTX-L fanboy
Because its nowhere near as bad as these nancies make it out to be. The installation is literally the easiest that it ever gets for a wideband. nothing wrong with the display at all, reads crisp and easy to see. dims/brightens on its own too depending on how much light is shining at it (has a sensor). also the startup/heatup time is like 3-4 seconds. the values are not spot on to the .001 and the response takes about half to 3/4 of a second, neither of which is really a deal breaker for tuning a miata, or most other cars for that matter. I bet there's less than a dozen people on this site with tunes spot on enough for that to be the thing holding them back.

anywho, get which ever. I had AEM's for years, and currently running the MTX-L. So far so good, but it has a ton of wiring sticking out the back (non-removable) that I don't like, and I hate that its the weird yellow color, and I really hate that it doesn't auto-dim but you have to wire up a seperate wire for that function. lastly I HATE HATE HATE the fact that this stupid thing literally takes forever to heat up. that's retarded. basically startup and beginning of warmup cannot be tuned unless you wire it temporarily to a direct power source

oh well
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:55 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds1 View Post
Haha, you must be a coder...

I'm liking the Innovate right now, but the install and setup of use with the AEM is drawing my attention. Also, I don't know how many people have had faulty MTX-L's vs. LC-1's. I know the LC-1's had some problems but haven't found much on reliability on the MTX-L. So I guess thats a good thing?

I'm sorry, but look at the install docs of the MTX-L and AEM and tell me how they differ...
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:26 AM   #133
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Savington uses the AEM. That's good enough for me.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:07 AM   #134
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My MXT-L took me 10 minutes to wire up. It was 3 wires, that matter. Power, ground, and wideband output. There is a 4th wire if you want to hook that up to a power wire for lights so that it dims. I left it unhooked.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:11 AM   #135
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18psi, good point on the auto-dim function. I HATE when gauges are too bright (you know when you're in your buddy's awful Gran Prix that has the aftermarket radio thats so bright it practically blinds you, and theres no way to turn it down?), and I usually run mine at the lowest light setting anyway.

Warm up is a good point too. Hmmm this is a tough decision even though I know I'll be happy with either one I get, hahah.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:15 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ds1 View Post
you know when you're in your buddy's awful Gran Prix that has the aftermarket radio thats so bright it practically blinds you, and theres no way to turn it down
well, he could have wired it correctly to dim with lights on...
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #137
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Quote:
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well, he could have wired it correctly to dim with lights on...
Refer to post #126 above
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:26 PM   #138
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Quote:
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Thanks for the parts list, you have a seriously cheap (in a good way) build!

I'm going to avoid the Chinese turbo and manifold/dp, but other than that you're right on. How hard was it to build your MS? Because paying $150 for it vs. paying Brain $600 to build it for me is a biiiig difference.

I've been gathering parts for several years to boost my miata and like you my intention was to start as cheap as possible. A few areas I didn't go ultra cheap on and I've made some mistakes along the way that I'm not ashamed of making, mistakes that have cost me a few dollars here and there.

My megasquirt was purchased when they first came out with the v2.2 kit around 2003 for an entirely different vehicle which is now long gone. Had it assembled already, made some mods and add-ons to work with my miata and away we go. Make no mistake, the v2.2 board running MS1 processor isn't a THIRD of what Brain can build for you and I would highly advise taking that route. The point I was trying to make about megasquirt is the one I linked, and am currently using is WORLDS better than nothing/bandaids/fmu/piggyback/apexi garbage could ever be. Please don't waste your money or go cheap on engine management, and if that means going cheap elsewhere, buy a chinacharger instead of a Garrett..

Do your research and learn where you can 'cut corners' with costs and where it's advisable not to. For my build I selected a turbocharger which might've been a bit overkill for a stock motor with intentions of using on a built motor in the future. What corner did I cut? Reused an old rubber hose for my wastegate that cracked after 2 days, burst, and caused this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...2/#post1032170


Point is, if you do enough research, are careful in your planning and part selection it's still entirely possible to build a reliable inexpensive (relatively speaking) turbo miata. Had I perhaps used a smaller turbo, paid closer attention to manifold pressure, bought a brand new quality hose for wastegate signal line, or enabled overboost protection in megasquirt it'd still be running strong. It'll live again, though.

Don't forget to use the search feature on here, there's a plethora of usable GOOD solid stuff. Do your research carefully, watch classified sections, and most of all... Good luck.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:52 PM   #139
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Thanks! Yeah, I have definitely learned that there's some things you just can't skimp on. I think this build will go very well.... The entire idea has changed drastically since 7 pages ago :P

I'm really feeling the MTX-L for wideband. I think I'll go that way. Thanks 18psi for putting up a fight for AEM, though

Which brings me to a gauge question. I'll probably grab a boost gauge too - is there anything else gauge wise that would be highly recommended? And, what gauge mounts are decent looking and not ricey for a Miata that ISN'T in the air vent? (Need the heat in upstate NY!). I've tried some searches is the usual places but everything is either not made for a Miata or is a huge plasticy thing that mounts on the dash that looks retarded.
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:14 AM   #140
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