Sorry, I meant the damn clutch slave cylinder bolt strippped. so did a damn motor mount bolt hole. Ugh


Regarding one-man-menthod, I assume you put drivers side in first?

 

No it was easier to take the turbo out than the intake manifold, since the exhaust was always out when the motor was pulled. So, i always removed the drivers side and put it in later.

 

What is this mount removal method? I managed to do it (not one-manned) with both mounts bolted to the motor by having a ratchet strap on one side in addition to the hoist. Actually made it pretty easy.

 

The studs on the motor mounts that hold the motor to the subframe are angled out, away from the motor. If both motor mounts are attached to the motor, the end of the bolts are farther apart than the holes in the subframe. If you take one motor mount off you can easily get the other one in place. Then you can slip the other motor mount in and bolt it back to the block and subframe.

 

Or you can slot the subframe a little and drop everything straight down from the top.

 

You forget who's thread this is? "Slot a little" means taking the saw to it and hacking out half of the metal.

What's so hard about removing one mount?

 

Reassembly isn't Faefae's strong suit. Or really his suit at all. Anything that makes that easier is a good thing.

You're right about cutting the subframe in half with teh sawzall, though... Soviet, can you handle that?

 

Wow this is a fantastic idea. I do have my cool new grinder. I got a 1/4" thick disc for it so two cuts should do the trick next time.


After a couple hours of frustration, I got the motor back in with the one-mount trick. I used this method earlier this year. I forgot how time consuming the mount-in-holing is when you're doing this by yourself. Like last time, this took me wayyyyy more time than any other part of the motor pull or reinstall.

Most everything is ready to go now. Just may need a pair of helping hands to get the downpipe in. Note that my downpipe is 3.5" and has two -12 crankcase vent hoses going into it and also two wideband sensors. That means it is kinda heavy so it sucks getting it to sit still up by the turbo so i can get the vband clamp on.

Doing the motor pull/reinstall once every three months sucks. Remind me to be a little nicer to my car because it really is a pain in the ***. Not that hard at all, but just takes a lot of time.

No more flat shifting
No more hard launching

If I kerblooie this trans again in a straight line I might downgrade to the s246 permanently.

 

Please stick to this.

 

...at least until we have a dyno vid with allofit

 

what a joke

 

Fae. Dyno your car, and I will send you beer monies. I will send you 2x beer monies if you have a video of said dyno, and you have tire slippage because the dyno cannot handle ALLOFIT.

 

ftfy.

 

forreal, Min's little "project" here already rivals the space program in both budget and failure

 

For some reason i get the feeling Fae is spending a whole lot of time on the cr forumz we dont know about. Would explain the drinking and wrenching techniques.

 

Wrlp i got the downpup on myself with the aid of a jackstand.

Just need to button up fuel lines, ic piping, radiator hoses.

Done for the night cus i need to hit some booty.

Please. Please. Remind me friends to not break more ---- because this whole thing just sucks. Bolt after bolt the hours add up and i just want to drive my car again.

 

Hit it like ya mean it!

Don't break that ---- again. At least not until you hit a dyno.

 

oh man I can't wait for the next thread title

 

I know that feel. Its exactly why I decided to just shell out $1600 for another EFR and not take up the Garrett sponsorship deal.

And you know what....


DRIVING OWN CAR FEELS FUСKING GLORIOUS

 

you have to be one of the dumbest mother*******