blasphemy. he should make a new post asking for a map that someone spent ten minutes on.

 

Actually haters, I already did make one.

This is FM's stock VVT map:



I do not understand why the cam is in full advance in cruise.

This is the one I made per Y8s findings:



Advance in boost in the midrange. Not sure what to do with it out of boost.

 

what do those numbers mean? the old hydra was directly in cam degrees. like -13 to +6 or 9 or something.


you want full retard (-13?) to 2500
you want max advance (6-9?) 2500-3700
you want 3 degrees of retard 3700 to 4700
you want full retard above 4700

and you want full retard for everything below about 80 kPa to prevent oscillation etc. there may be some mpg benefits by doing it differently, but i haven't tested.

also I wouldn't sweat making the transitions from full retard to whatever setting over 250 rpm instead of 1000 rpm (ie adjacent cells). same for load. at 69 it should be retarded and at 80 it should be advanced.
anything beyond that requires dyno time.
you want

 

Yah, I tried to do that with my "speedbump" map above.

With Hydra 2.6 the values are as follows:

Full retard is around -33.
Full advance is around +12.
Zero retard/advance is around -10.

 

I just drove the car a little trip to Mr. Tire to get a tire patched for my subaru.

I loaded the FM super duper ultra conservative timing map up and took 2 more degrees out at the "pain zone" and what do you know? No knock. o_o

The car did feel much slower, but after several pulls with wheelspin through third, the joy returned. Whoever says wheelspin is no fun is ignorant or lying. It is actually super fun, particularly at 65mph.

Oh and I took a daytime video for you guys. Wait, no, I didn't. I decided I will wait until it is night again and use my super 8 camera.

 

Update.

I bought Trackspeed/Savington's incolnel stud kit. Also got a tap from Amazon to clean up any possiborked threads. Got a hood lift kit too. I was jealous of all the super slick hood openage at the dyno day.

Still have to get all the steering juice out of the rack but my jack was stolen from my parking garage (surprise! says Baltimore) so that will wait until I can go to harbor freight.

Am running around 17-18psi now and it is great. Had my first "kill" this week; some lame acura or something. Sorry it is a sucky story but 1st and 2nd were kinda neck and neck, thanks to **** traction and one second 1st-2nd shift times thanks to the dead 2nd gear synchro. Third part throttle was good bye real fast.

The cold 30/40degree weather makes those first two gears very interesting- if I floor it, the RPMs are pretty chaotic until it sort of warms up the tires then there is a burst of warp speed. Very fun in the city

Dyno tune session #2 will be in about two weeks. Hopefully I will have a nice fully gutted (upper and lower gut) IM to use for it. BTW for all you stock IM haters, did you know that the plenum volume, when gutted, is about 2.2 liters???? Post-TB flow restrictions aside, that's pretty damn good!

 

Dyno tune session #2 will be in about two weeks. Hopefully I will have a nice fully gutted (upper and lower gut) IM to use for it. BTW for all you stock IM haters, did you know that the plenum volume, when gutted, is about 2.2 liters???? Post-TB flow restrictions aside, that's pretty damn good![/QUOTE]

Interesting fact about the intake manifolds, thats not bad for a mild setup, but still has a small throttle body and a lot of odd shapes and angles inside.

 

Yah the nasty part is really the "neck"- that part which is immediately post throttle body. Rest of it is pretty nice. If I knew how to weld- anything, I would hack that part off and put a cylinder on the front. Mebbe that would work. Hmm

 

We might have to make a short trip down to Turbo XS to see how much they would want to hack the front of the intake off and weld on a straight piece of pipe to get rid of the little jog in the neck. That way you can make a gazillon HP.

 

I was thinking about this driving home from work-- I would also need a TB flange. And why not maybe a larger TB to go with it.

 

You could get one of those awesome Ebay 80mm TB's that use a Q45 TPS I mean if your gonna do it DO IT BIG!!! lol But for real you could get one of the ebay all aluminum TB's for around $100, you could even order it with a flange if you look. With you stand alone you should be able to make just about any TPS work and your golden bolt on 7000000WHP. lol

 

Brandon is working FT up in Frederick. Part-time at TXS. He's in some complex that's near Brian Karwan's "Karcepts" shop. Oh, it's Maryland Performance! I thought I knew the name.

 

If you go the Q45 route, please let me know because I have one already set up that I would like to sell.

 

Finally starting to feel better from a stupid cold so I am going to harbor freight now.

To do:
finish power steering looping
hood props
turbo mani studs

 

FaeFlora talk to Saint_foo about TurboXS, I believe he knows all those guys.

 

The guy at turbo xs that was the welder is gone I would not trust any one else down there to weld anything. There are a couple places in Bmore that are good and in college park.

 

I've heard Agile Performance in Belair does good fabrication work and stuff. They normally work on subies, but a miata should be a breeze for them

 

I'm not sure I trust Agile. They dyno "tuned" Airbrush's hydra and didn't even touch the timing map. WTF?????

I know they can make exhausts an **** but they quoted me $1000 for a 3" exhaust. Mebbe I will call and talk to them anyways though- thank you for the tip.

 

Reliability modification weekend:

-Put on incolnel studs and stage 8 fasteners
-fixed some downpipe-"midpipe" exhaust leak with a more appropriate gasket
-figured out why alternator belt had started squealing- the damn alternator mounting bolt had fallen out. How nice it was that the alternator did not fall out too.
-cleaned up a few thread-borked holes with a tap. taps are pretty awesome
-removed the passenger rear fender liners because the tires were rubbing under boost
-cleaned up steering depower looping, got a bunch more juice out of the rack. Feels pretty good now, but I think I will need to hack off the steering cooler loop because there is still a little inconsistency when turning the wheel. Gonna need some bolt cutters for that.

The next reliability mod plan is to go for SS braided or nylon braided lines for everything possible in the engine bay. I want to do away with the BEGI cold air box and the hard-to-soft line bulkhead and just run everything point to point using various fittings. That will also be an appearance mod because I do not like the look of the rubber hoses.

 

Brandon is working in Frederick, MD. He really is a great welder. He still can be reached via TurboXS...but I wouldn't count on it. He's working at Maryland Performance, IIRC. It's in the same area as Karcepts (Brian Karwan's shop).

He should be at a Subaru meet this Thursday. I'm hosting a meet at Allsports GP from 6:30-8:30 then off to Glory Days in Ashburn, VA.

-Ed