whats this hose by the control arm?

 

Looks good.

 

Not quite done yet. Head flange is just tacked on and I still need to find a good spot for the WG. That seems to be a problem with these huge turbos + long runner manifolds. I'm not sure where the WG will dump. There's no room between the block and DP or steering shaft and DP to route it through there.

I'll try a 90 degree silicone elbow on the compressor later. I'm pretty sure it'll fit.

 

It's a PS hose. Doesn't belong there. I just moved it out of the way.

 

So are you going to re-clock the turbo?

 

Manifold looks awesome.
Didn't realize the QSV had such a thick flange.

 

Yes, the flange is 3/4"

Went to an autocross yesterday.

Here's a link to the pics:

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?p=755240


I had a pretty good time. I liked it when I was driving. Unfortunately, I only drove for a total of about 10 minutes :( It did however make me more comfortable with my car so that was good. I just wanted to drive more. Like do laps around the course.

I disconnected my rear sway and the rear felt nice and planted. It did not come around ever unless I power oversteered. The front however, pushed and slid A LOT when I gassed it in a hard turn. Front sway is FM and is at max stiff. I will have to check what my KYBs were at. Tire pressure was 28psi and alignment is max caster, 2.8* rear, 1.8* 0 toe. How to fix push?

 

probably less stiff on the front sway should help in dialing back the understeer

 

Nicest looking pic from autox:

 

Smooth transition to power will help as well. The tighter the corner the finer the line between to firm/soft the swaybar/suspension is. Sticky tires will help as well.

 

For autocross, the main factor affecting understeer is the driver.

Some points:

A) In the picture I marked up in the other thread, it looked like you entered a turn way too hot and so slid past the position you'd want the car to be in WRT the cone. You'll have understeer or lost time until the entry speed is reduced. So that the car can be placed better, and on the proper line. The King of the Late Brakers seldom makes it through slow turns without understeer. In such cases a perfect racecar will understeer way too much. Some might scurry around making more mods and doing quick tweaks to deal with the "problem" but the main issue is the nut behind the wheel.

B) Corner entry rotation can be used very effectively to get a bit more turning done earlier leading to less being needed later on. Hence more power can be put down earlier. Don't get greedy early on or it will cost ya!

C) Tied to (B) are advanced driving techniques whereby trail braking (mods needed on Miata brake bias to do this best) is used to create some oversteer to reduce understeer. This does not lead to a drift with opposite lock. Rather, you are still on lock, but with less steering input needed in total.

An Alien driver I know and log seldom has understeer in nearly any car he autocrosses. What he does is brake a car length or so earlier than most drivers. With his right foot at about 30% on the throttle during this braking he works to get the car left foot trail braking hard. As the corner entry progresses he is looking at the exit point. As the understeer rises, he suddenly releases the gas pedal for about 0.2 seconds. This adds rear braking force since some of it was being cancelled out. Then he is back on the gas, quickly getting it floored. After that 2 tenths the back of the car moves enough that less steering lock is needed and as the wheel is getting close to straight again, he is already back on the gas hard.

During a run he basically never is off the gas fully for more than a fraction of a second. This technique leads to about 60% of total steering lock being required compared to the usual load the car to the understeer limit and wait driver.

 

Manifold is pretty much finished. All the runners are the same except for the frontmost one which had to be shorter for fitament.

 

Same as in same material? I know how much I had to lengthen Lars' 1&4 to match the length of 2&3 and yours don't look close. Again, worth 2hp. Lookin' great IMHO nevertheless.

There's more than 2.5" (~20%) difference in runner 1 & 4 centerline length between this (Lars'):

and this:

 

Turbo is not centered

 

*

 

My fuel system is currently a bosch 044 in tank with the factory hard line and regulator. I'm going to weld shut the uh factory regulator line.

I have a second 044 to put in tank too (going to strap em together) and will run a -6 up to the engine bay. I will not tee. Each individual line will go into opposite ends of the FM rail. I'm getting a bung welded onto the rail for the regulator. This should give me the combined volume of a... -10ish line. If I could buy everything again I would just tee the pumps together and run a single -12 up to the bay. Oh well.

 

I would run -8 to the rail then -6 as a return. Kind of silly to run all that pump and choke down the delivery at the rail.

 

? How would delivery at the rail be choked down?

 

All things being equal, -8 has the potential to deliver more fuel thus increasing your safety margin. I would rather have my resistance that creates pressure be at the rail than at the pump. How quite is your intake pump, my out of tank has a little hum to it.

 

????????

No no. I am running two pumps and two lines up to the rail. One pump has the factory line. The other pumpe will have a -6 line. Each pump goes into each end of the rail. Third fitting will come out of rail to regulator.

My 044 moans and whines very loudly when the tank is approaching empty.