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Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!

Old Mar 11, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #681  
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Worst case we will drop you tank and run a return system with a A1000 fuel pump if you out run that just stop driving the car because it will rip in half.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 12:57 PM
  #682  
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm
And the build goes on...started accumulating fuel system parts. In the pictures, a weldon 2040 rising rate fuel pressure regulator. A comparo shot, our stock fuel pump compared to a bosch 044. Fuel supply fittings on the gas tank top plate.



The huge physical size difference between stock and Bosch 044
This controls fuel for my build and runs flawless. I have not heard good things about the walboro...other than it is cheap and seems to get the job done. Given where you want your build to go, you need to grow some hair on you peaches and man up on the greenbacks. Fast and reliable in FI means you need to spend money, and run quality equipment.

Since I got the car running I went gravity feed with supply to the pump which has caused the pump to run quieter.

Originally Posted by hingstonwm

Last edited by hingstonwm; Mar 11, 2011 at 01:11 PM.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #683  
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Originally Posted by Sean
I'll look up the part number for the FPR later but aeromotive only makes 3 or 4 different ones. I am not positive it is the fuel but it seems to be. I am wondering if you pump was giving up and that is what gives you the up and down dyno. I would put the 300 in there with the FPR and run it again if it doesn't work get a mani and turbo somewhere there is a restriction I am leaning more towards the turbo side of things than fuel but the fuel side is a lot cheaper and what you want to do you need it anyway.
Maybe it's the stock fuel lines causing the issue. 60 pounds in -5 line will not supply as much fuel as 60 pounds in -8.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #684  
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I've got a Fuelab 54501 in my engine bay.

-Smaller than the Aeromotive
-Available in 2 or 3-port config
-25-90psi base pressure adjustment
-Uses standard -6AN unions, not expensive-*** ORB fittings
-Cheaper than the Aeromotive

www.fuelab.com

I can get them as well. Faefoolish, you should be converting that car to return anyway.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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2001 fuel pressure spec is 53-61 psi.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 02:52 PM
  #686  
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Adventure time!

I guess setting up a fuel system for a 400 (hopefully more) hp car is like setting up an aquarium pump.

stick filter on the hose
stick hose in the juice
stick pump on the hose
stick another hose in the pump
stick filter on the second hose
stick hose into regulator
stick regulator hose into rail
stick rail hose into regulator
stick return regulator into juice
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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You know I have never been able to find an actual write up on a returnless to return write up
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #688  
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if you have to ask, you'll never know.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #689  
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Its as simple as running a return line to the tank. One comes out one goes in with a fuel rail and regulator in between simple as that.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:34 PM
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holy crap, slow down... you lost me at a line goes to a fuel rail.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JayL
I've seen many of these fail, I'd recommend going with an Aeromotive.
What failed on it? I've cracked them open, and they really have nothing to them. Our Mallory unit on the truck howls like a banshee when its hot out.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by shlammed
holy crap, slow down... you lost me at a line goes to a fuel rail.

Here is a very poor picture but you will get the idea. The fuel line come out of the tank threw the filter and into the pump.( you can also do this with an in tank pump and filer) out of the pump and to the fuel rail, threw the fuel rail and threw the FPR, out the FPR and back to the tank. This is about as simple as a drawing you will get but this should give you the idea. The stock NB does not have the return line to the tank it just has the feed.

[IMG][/IMG]
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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Could you run a junction block before your inline pump for your return? Can't remember what size lines these cars had in stock form.

That would keep from having to run the line all the way to the tank.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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Yes you can but some people do not like to do that. We just put together a LS1 s-0 where the FPR is mounted right next to the tank and only one line runs up but it tends to make for uneven fuel pressure over a long distance like that.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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You can also use the hard aluminum AN line summit sells for something like $25 for 20 feet it works great it is what is on my car and it is simple to use. Hold the pressure like any other line just easier to bend.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
What failed on it? I've cracked them open, and they really have nothing to them. Our Mallory unit on the truck howls like a banshee when its hot out.
They all have had large fluctuations under high boost levels where the fuel pressure won't hold steady. Never bothered to try and take one apart, just tossed them in the trash and put on a quality part.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean
Here is a very poor picture but you will get the idea. The fuel line come out of the tank threw the filter and into the pump.( you can also do this with an in tank pump and filer) out of the pump and to the fuel rail, threw the fuel rail and threw the FPR, out the FPR and back to the tank. This is about as simple as a drawing you will get but this should give you the idea. The stock NB does not have the return line to the tank it just has the feed.

[/IMG]
i was joking....
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:41 PM
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Well I just went out for a drive and the car almost drives great. 8000RPM with 3.6 gears makes for a first gear that lasts longer than 1 second. fun. Some of the time on the dyno yesterday was spent on the vvt map and it's hitting hard.

I was however, seeing some OCCASIONAL fucked up lean AFRs at 21-23psi and some spikes on the knock sensor. I am not sure if it is misfiring coils or detonation. My gut is saying detonation due to fuel pump dying a slow death or just being at the upper limit of it's capabilities? I think I will just lower the boost until I fix this. I ordered a fuel filter just in case that is an issue and will get the rest of the stuff tomorrow.

I'm considering these fuel fittings and using the fuel tank vent as a return line:

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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:41 PM
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when did you last change the fuel filter?

lol could be a $10 part.
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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You do know that you're going to trash your intake drivetrain revving to 8k right?

Those VVT cams have a nasty harmonic imbalance above 7.3k.

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