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Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata. (the search for more torque).

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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #361  
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oh yeah I forget you live in the desert lol
Old Aug 16, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #362  
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I like the look. As long as there is no rust I honestly couldn't care less what paint looks like.
Old Aug 16, 2013 | 11:24 AM
  #363  
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The desert DESTROYS paint. My grandparents 07 hummer h3 already has clear coat peeling. So does their 04 jag. It sucks, lol.

I also dig the look, it's got a "track rat" thing going for it. Hell no, no rust at all, southern car all its life and has never seen that terrible road salt. Even in the winter when its snowing a shitload they use ground up lava rocks (red dusty ****) instead of salt, which is awesome. Not like I would subject the miata to a winter if I can help it at all.

Anyways I will be doing paint on this thing, will be sanding/prepping/shooting the car myself. DIY so I can learn how to do it.
Old Aug 16, 2013 | 11:36 AM
  #364  
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Body work is just one thing I've never had patience for.
Old Aug 16, 2013 | 12:27 PM
  #365  
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Originally Posted by FRT_Fun
Body work is just one thing I've never had patience for.
It really sucks if the entire car is dinged up. My miata has a few, but it's actually REALLY straight for the most part. I've done some bodywork before so I have some experience on that. I really don't want to sand the car and start on that yet though, because then i will REALLY look like **** until I get paint on it.
Old Aug 16, 2013 | 12:59 PM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
I know you guys will just LOVE this pic. LOL.



Seriously though, i love this car. Do you guys think matching the roll bar/tow hooks with the gold wheels would be too gaudy?
Roll bar in gold will be to much, but it depends on the overall flow.

I just got some Renmetal tow hooks in black but going to paint them red to match my front Willwoods. Subtle but a little noticable. Rollbars need black or stainless. I've seen grey that worked and perhaps a white one. Gold might be pushing it for the rollbar unless you talk like this:

"There are only two things I can't stand in this world. People who are intolerant of other people's cultures... and the Dutch."


Odd that you have to deal with such powerful sun damage, but never rust. Ha, too much sun and heat. Seems like another planet to a person who thinks high 70's and maybe getting into the 80's is very warm for a week straight......... We hit 30-32 celcius three times this year !!
Old Aug 16, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #367  
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Originally Posted by Landrew
Roll bar in gold will be to much, but it depends on the overall flow.

I just got some Renmetal tow hooks in black but going to paint them red to match my front Willwoods. Subtle but a little noticable. Rollbars need black or stainless. I've seen grey that worked and perhaps a white one. Gold might be pushing it for the rollbar unless you talk like this:

"There are only two things I can't stand in this world. People who are intolerant of other people's cultures... and the Dutch."


Odd that you have to deal with such powerful sun damage, but never rust. Ha, too much sun and heat. Seems like another planet to a person who thinks high 70's and maybe getting into the 80's is very warm for a week straight......... We hit 30-32 celcius three times this year !!
Haha, funny thing is although I live in the desert, it's the "high desert" 7000+ ft elevation. It's relatively cold here at night in the summer ( can be in the 40's), and relatively hot in the day (80's, sometimes touching 90's but that is a HOT day), but NOTHING like the AZ desert, or anything down south from me. We have incredible sun though, which is where the sun damage comes into play.

For example, this weeks forecast:



We also have wicked winters here that rival CO, as I'm less than an hours drive from CO where I live now.
Attached Thumbnails Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-jj9ojh0.png  
Old Aug 16, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #368  
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I think the paint looks pretty cool in that picture.
Old Aug 18, 2013 | 07:32 PM
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Thanks Jimmy. Was cool to see your car, thanks for hitting me up when you were in town.

everyone else: Got my walbro 255 installed. Did NOT seem to overpower the stock FPR so far at least, afr's were still spot on after installation. Installation was super easy with the install kit, and the pump is probably LESS annoying than the stock replacement i had in there. The stock one was more quiet, but made a kind of clunking noise. This one just makes a high pitch whirr. barely audible over the exhaust once I put the insulation back in the parcel shelf area.

Anyways that's all for now, should have an e85 update soon.
Old Aug 18, 2013 | 10:10 PM
  #370  
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Dude I had a great time today, thanks for having me. I thought your car would've been way faster than mine so I'm pretty chuffed with my "safety tune."

Glad I wasn't blowing smoke. Would've thought there'd be some black smoke cuz I was about 10.5:1. You were blowing some oil when you got on it.

Made it home ok, no issues. Topped her out too

Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-forumrunner_20130818_200817.png
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 03:28 PM
  #371  
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What is your PCV setup like? I noticed early on it looked relatively stock but with vacuum being drawn on the hot side of the valve cover from near the turbo inlet....

...but later pictures show a catch can, but only vented to atmosphere (no vacuum).

Details? :3
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 03:35 PM
  #372  
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Yeah, it's both VC ports > catch can > VTA. This pic is most recent.

Attached Thumbnails Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata.  (the search for more torque).-ax7gwh9.jpg  
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #373  
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Did you route coolant the fan switch as well as the cluster temp sensor on the back of the block, or is one of the fans on permanent ground?

My coolant reroute kit has a threaded hole on the front blockoff plate to accomodate the switch, but kinda clutters the front end of the motor.
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 04:38 PM
  #374  
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
Did you route coolant the fan switch as well as the cluster temp sensor on the back of the block, or is one of the fans on permanent ground?

My coolant reroute kit has a threaded hole on the front blockoff plate to accomodate the switch, but kinda clutters the front end of the motor.
Since I'm rocking a MS I no longer require the front switch to activate my fans. They are now controlled by the CLT sensor via the MS. The CLT sensor and cluster temp are the only two I'm using - and CLT is mounted on the reroute spacer itself (BEGI unit), while the dash sensor is located in the head on one of the unused ports.
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #375  
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Thank you, sir. Looks like I have plenty to learn still optimizing my cable methods and megasquirt features.

I'm confident with mechanical things, but once I stare at software and options, i glaze over.
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 05:05 PM
  #376  
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
Thank you, sir. Looks like I have plenty to learn still optimizing my cable methods and megasquirt features.

I'm confident with mechanical things, but once I stare at software and options, i glaze over.
If it's a MSPNP from diyautotune, you don't even have to touch the software. By default the mspnp reads CLT to operate the fans.

No idea how any of the other builders set theirs up, but probably the same... because **** that front fan switch.
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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so one could effectively just remove that switch and reassign those wires for something else?
Old Aug 20, 2013 | 12:05 AM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
so one could effectively just remove that switch and reassign those wires for something else?
I just removed that switch and taped those wires up in the harness out of the way to make it look cleaner. IDK about reassigning them, but you can absolutely remove the switch altogether with a MS.
Old Aug 28, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #379  
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Yo man, clean out your PM box.

Have you seen this thread?:
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...example-61616/

Just got mine together and it works great. I need to pick up some better headphones though. I built it with the stud ring method in post #24 so I can leave it on the motor permanently.

Should give you some more confidence over the oil pressure gauge
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 01:20 AM
  #380  
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Done.

Saw that thread, but this looks like the way to go:
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...det-can-73384/

That OPG is whack now, hoping it just needs a new sender. Thanks for the tip, I've already got the harbor freight stethoscope sitting at home, just need to build it.



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