Are you refering to my inner beauty?

 

No no, on the inside, you're beautiful. And pink.

BTW, buddy wants the white female kitteh with the blue eyes. He's a broke college kid and concerned about vet things, though. (i probably scared him with Peach's $400 vet bill and Kaia (Turbo's new name) and her ~$600 total over the first 6 months.) He's in Lima, OH right now. Think we can make things happen?

 

Yes, we can do the things. I will give him some moneys for spay.

 

Hokay i will let him know.

 

Really wasnt much ******* about. When I had the motor out to do the NA8 to VVT swap I took about 8 feet of electrical tape off the car and 1 like 1.5" diameter wire loom off and it was very obvious what the problem was. I have no ******* clue how that wire got fucked up though. It was literally in the inside of the bundle of wires and looks like it was cut with a set of side cutters.

 

That is only partially true - the sNB sensor has both sensors for ECU and the gauge cluster included. The ECU sender has a ground wire, the gauge sender needs to be grounded via the housing. So try to ground this and it should be working...

 

This guy is right. I was wrong.

 

Figured out the gauge issue.

NB1, or at least 2000s do NOT have an additional ground back there. The temp sender is actually 2 sensors in one.

Black/Red wire is ground, red/blue is signal to ECU, violet/white is signal to gauge. Black/Red wire is for ECU circuit ONLY, and turns out that that was working, or at least i had no indication that it wasn't. Ground wire showed good continuity, and there was no visible damage to red/blue. Didn't both testing it at the ECU, that's annoying.

Turns out that gauge end grounds through the body of the sensor itself (at least one or two of you told me this, i just couldn't brain why that was an issue until i worked on it). Which... let's think about this for a minute. The sensor is in the spacer.

So we have...

1) Head
2) Gasket
3) Spacer
4) Gasket
5) Tstat housing/waterneck

So the ONLY way this spacer will be grounded properly is if the bolts are contacting the spacer. Apparently mine shifted due to the pressure on it from the waterneck not being spaced far enough off that nipple on the back of the head, and the spacer lost contact with the bolts, rendering the sender ungrounded.

I lightly loosened the bolts, smacked the spacer down with a wooden dowel, and retightened the bolts. Voila. Working gauge.

Not super impressed. Thinking i'm going to move to the M-Tuned re-route over winter. Less things stacked there apparently has more advantages than just "less things stacked there."


Working temp gauge!

2015-08-24_09-36-33 by concealer404, on Flickr



Oh, and i swapped the new license plate on. Required use of an air hammer with a chisel attachment.

2015-08-24_09-36-19 by concealer404, on Flickr

 

It's crude, but you can just run a separate ground wire to that sensor. For my goofy VEI gauges I just stripped about 6" of jacket off the end of a wire and wrapped it tightly around the sender units, then added a hose clamp on top of the wrap to clamp it tight; attached the other end to a proper engine ground point and all has been well since. Function over form.

 

<p>Ben: Get a real temp gauge, quit bitching about stacks </p><p>good2go: ******* thank you. I had been brainstorming how to ground my vei sensors.</p>

 

Since mine are down in the sandwich adapter, I slathered some terminal grease to the bare wire to try and keep corrosion down too.

 

Meh. I don't like crude when it comes to wiring. Works now. Fixed it with a hammer.

 

<p>If you don't want crude then buy me this and I'll send it to you when I'm done with it.</p><p>https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5738</p>

 

But why? I already have a solution.

 

<p>Cuz i want that thing.</p>

 

You could always man the **** up and solder the ground wire to the sender body.

 

<p style="text-align: right;">I've had bad luck lately with soldered joints in my engine bay.</p>

 

Anyone know the dimensions/specs on the rodends in the 949 endlinks? I have at least 3 that are pretty worn and noisy, figure i should just replace them all. However, at $96 + shipping from 949, that's a no go. I'd just buy new endlinks from Emilio (and i might go this route).

If not, i can try to get down to AED next week.

 

<br />
<br /><br />
<br />[Utag]turbofan[/Utag] has one on his workbench right now.

 

take one out and take it to aed