<p>I want scientific data.</p>

 

My methods are admittedly rudimentary.
My pickup squats about 1/2" on average per 100lbs.
The bed drops about 1-1/4" per the average Hoosier stripper, and 1-1/2" per average Nebraska stripper.
Assume an N of 112 for group 1 and N of 115 for group 2.

 

Like the tire? I'm confused.

 

A Hoosier refers to a person, or sometimes thing, from Indiana.

Hoosier is a much better name for a tire company than Indianan.

 

Weight of?

 

I believe we were discussing strippers. Or maybe tires?

 

Hoosier strippers are definitely heavier than tires.

Unless you get into the Kokomo area, then it becomes debatable. Because meth.

 

Sometimes I'll go into your thread or aidans thread, and type some sort of a post, then realize that 10 pages have gone by in the meantime, with discussion about everything from hookers to anal warts, and I just hit "back" cause I don't even remember what I was commenting on anymore. ror

 

My thread is nowhere near as bad as his. Though that said, sometimes it's hard to remember which thread you're actually in.

 

Concealer's car made 127whp on a heart breaker mustang dyno. Not bad at all.

 

 

Whoa

 

Troof!

(RPM scale is slightly off. We hit rev limiter @ 7500rpm. The way Mustang calibrates for RPM means it's a little off up top.)

2015-09-28_09-31-02 by concealer404, on Flickr

Not shown: Everyone frantically covering their ears.

That's what we all said. I, and the shop owners were expecting more like 110-115whp, and certainly not continuing to make power all the way up. I haven't even installed the BP5A cam yet. o_O

Motor is obviously healthy, but i also seem to have inadvertently stumbled across a combination of parts that just WORKS.

 

Update copy/pasted from another forum:

Clutch update:

ACT sent me a defective disc. Spec is .312-.314" for the pads. Mine were .319, .317, .317, and .329. So that wasn't cool. What also wasn't cool was spending all the time and money to find out that i did nothing wrong and replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't need to be replaced.

ACT sent me another disc, got here Tuesday afternoon. Measured it before deciding to put it in anyways since i had to leave the next morning. .317, .319, .317, 3.18. Not cool. Of course, it did the same thing it did before, wouldn't disengage. Briefly considered sending it all back to them and telling them i'm no longer interested in running their clutches and making an emergency call up to South Bend, but i really didn't have it in me to do the job AGAIN.

So i just beat the hell out of the clutch and now it seems i've worn it down enough that it works. Still not really happy at all with the quality control or ACT's lack of caring about the huge amount of time and money of mine that they wasted, but at least i have a functioning clutch now, and i know what company to not buy clutches from in the future.

The other saving grace is that the setup is AWESOME. Super easy to drive, revs like CRAZY. Added some more NVH, has some really entertaining/bad sounding resonance decelerating in higher gears between about 5000rpms and 3000rpms, but now that i've already got 1500 miles on it, i'm pretty sure it'll be ok.

I installed a Scosche amp interface in order to clean up the signal between speaker level outputs from headunit and the factory Blose amps. Made a HUGE improvement in volume and quality, i was very excited that i might have a usable stereo on this car. And then i got on the highway and still couldn't hear it. Bummer. Looks like stereo is in fact coming out this week. Lost cause.

One of my foglights also shattered when i hit my bumper on some train tracks. They look cool, and actually worked, but light output was poor and i don't feel like spending money to replace it, so the foglights are getting removed this week as well, will eventually throw brake ducts in the holes.


Also: Dyno'd the car on Thursday at 42 Autosport in NC. This is a really conservative Mustang dyno, car seems to be VERY strong. Made a good 10whp+ more than everyone was expecting. Power is carried higher than "normal" for a BP.

127.1whp, 108.5wtq. RPMs shown on graph are slightly inaccurate, we spun it to 7500.

2015-09-28_09-31-34 by concealer404, on Flickr

2015-09-28_09-31-02 by concealer404, on Flickr

Due to power it made and the fact that i still haven't REALLY driven it and thought "MAN THIS THING IS SLOW," i had a rare moment of clarity and have decided that i'm not going to open the motor for another year. Instead, i'll focus on dialing in the suspension, brakes, swapping the seats because i've had enough of these Cobras, and working on aero. The parts i already have for the motor will be installed (BP5A intake cam, Honda intake manifold in the works), and i'll probably get a Haltech on it.

Looking at eventually running TTD with it.

 

Wow... Good numbers.

 

Yep! Can't wait to see what it does with BP5A cam, Hawnduh intake manifold, and Haltech Elite 1500. He's an angry little beast.

 

If the RPM numbers were off as indicated in the graph then the car actually made more horsepower than indicated.
You have more than 127.1.

 

How do you know the RPM numbers were off? Based on the tach?

 

It was spun to 7500rpm. I didn't mess with doing the maths.

BP5A ecu has 7500rpm limit. The problem is that when you set calibration RPM on a Mustang dyno with a stock ECU, when it asks you to move the car to 3500rpm in your testing gear to sync up, you're relying on the garbage Mazda factory tach. That becomes an issue, because your "sync" rpm wasn't REALLY 3500, but the dyno now "thinks" that it was. Inaccurate at 3500rpm = Inaccurate at 7500rpm, probably more so.

 

JDM ECU powahs, duh.