18 if you dont hit 300 with that 2860/T3 combo you suck, infact if you dont hit it ill send you a SNC 1.6L with a 2560 thAt'll do over 300 easy

Good luck bro, nice build.

Dann

 

I dont think the motor will run properly upside down.

 

does that stuff come with a 4.2 correction for the dyno?

 

Yeah, I think the setup would have been happier at higher boost. However, I was at the limit of my comfort level on the stock block. For reference a stock first gen Audi S4 runs 220 whp on that dyno. I've attached my Hydra 2.5 map (450cc injectors) used for the dyno run as well as a datalog. Note that even though the datalog says 4th gear the actual dyno run was in 5th gear. We did another run in 4th gear afterwards when the dyno operator was trying to show me that it didn't matter (can't recall his logic). After the dyno I did more road tuning and have since pulled quite a bit of timing...I've pulled so much that I think I'm being overly conservative but the Hydra keeps indicating that the knock is decreasing as I pull timing.

I loved the setup it spooled fast and compared to the stock MSM setup the acceleration was brutal (in a good way). I think I've since gotten used to the power and now want more.

The previous owner had the ETD manifold modified to have the external wastegate off the collector instead of off the #4 runner. This made installation interesting as it was a very tight fit and I could barely access the bolts. Then there was the lower bolt on the 5 bolt downpipe flange that was almost impossible to tighten. In general, one big pain to install.

I switched to the full vband Artech setup since I couldn't keep the turbine housing attached to the manifold. It would always vibrate or stretch the bolts loose. The turbine would then twist (I couldn't find nuts that would fit with a stud of the proper size) and result in the downpipe banging. I think this led to a couple small cracks in the welds on the manifold. Note that this was before inconel studs were readily available. Regardless, the manifold to turbine, manifold to wastegate, and turbine to downpipe connections were very difficult to get tight so I just gave up and went full v-band. The manifold and downpipe are now gathering dust in my garage.

I love the Artech setup. It's been very reliable and is incredibly easy to remove. Originally I got the .64 AR Tial turbine housing and the spool and response was great. But it really seemed to choke at higher rpms. So I've switched to a .86 AR Tial housing. It definitely doesn't spool as fast or seem as responsive but it's also more laid back as a result. I haven't dyno'ed either Artech setup.

 

+PROPS for that post

I really appreciate your input and attached map/log.

Thanks

 

You obviously dont understand how that correction works at all.

Dann

 

No problem.

Let me know if you need a gt2860rs T3 turbine housing. I still have a few that I ordered but didn't use while figuring out what to do. At times I got frustrated and ordered too many things that were never used.

- New .63 a/r version of T3 5 bolt (Ford style) Turbine Housing (identical). This was the first turbine housing I ordered but that weird square protrusion on the flange interfered with my wastegate so I couldn't use it.
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=GTH

- Used .48 a/r T3 5 bolt (Ford style) Turbine housing that I ordered directly from Precision. This was the housing I used but it was a major pain since it was machined to fit a GT2860RS turbine wheel which resulted in the CHRA being countersunk into the turbine housing (I had to have my CHRA bolt heads machined down to fit). I can't find any pictures of it right now.

- New .48 a/r version of T31 V-band Exhaust housing for GT 28RS (looks identical) w/ output downpipe v-band flange and clamp...can't recall where I got it since ATP doesn't sell the .48 a/r. Originally I was going to swap to this since the lower bolt on the 5-bolt flange was impossible to tighten...but it didn't address the manifold to turbine issues so I just went full v-band.
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=GTH

 

So I was bored and sad that there's no updates in this thread, and did some shopping. Bought some intake manifolds, so now I have: stock 01 vtcs, EUDM Square top, and bought a BLOX b18 type-r

The PLAN is to try dyno on the vtcs, if topend is fail step up to square top, and ifs still choking up top go to the big bad BLOX for that HAWNDUHH VTAK topend.

We'll see what happens.

 

Isn't the 01+ VTCS just there for warmup emissions? I pulled out the rod and flaps on mine before I install it for more flow. Least that is what I was told and it makes sense as it just takes up port volume even when open.

 

Correct.

But it basically still sucks big time and the worst of the NB manifolds for topend/flow.

The squaretop is a middleground manifold with a balance of both.

The honda is more geared towards topend with gains seen in the 5k+ range.

At least that's what I gather.

 

What is a cheap upgrade manifold and what gains can be expected in hard/soft numbers on say a S4 DiscoP. RS at 15-18psi?

See what you did there, now I have to start worrying about a new manifold and I'm so far away from my build completetion again...........

 

Sorry to dilute your thread. I'm keeping my VVT OEM intake and may take out the EGR castings and do some minor clean up. Nice thing is it's an easy swap compared to other jobs so I can visit this later. I do need to find detailed info on getting rid of charcol cannister and associated plumbing. In Cali do you need to keep all that for appearance sake ?

 

Vlad, do you still have a BP4W VICS manifold? It would be AWESOME to see someone actually test ALL these options back to back on the same car/setup.

I happen to have a spare that I would be willing to loan out for the cause.

 

In ****-CA everything has to be stock. Everything.
My plan to deal with that this time around is to have a completely oem/untouched "engine bay" sitting here for smog time. Swap literally everything over at once, smog, swap back.
Nope. If I'm really going to go through with dynoing all of them and don't get lazy, I'd probably take you up on that offer. I am lazy though, so it will depend lol

 

or become a nevada citizen.

Although it would be very interesting to just see the front subframe with an engine/trans mounted and all the bits that go with it, just sitting on a dolly just to be rolled under a car and lowered upon.

 

Actually, exactly that has already been posted in this very thread

 

Hey, 18psi. I see you dynamatted your rear shelf like I did.

What's your plan to replace the fuel pump? I'm trying to figure out the best way about it.

 

you cant think of a solution?

 

lol

razor blade bro

 

Oh, I can think of several solutions.

All of them are seriously labor intensive and a pain in the *** though.

/emo

Thanks 18psi. I was hoping you had a slightly less work intensive idea.