Rather articulate for a cat, isn't he?

 

Ayiyiyi the school system has failed.

Graphs are your friend. The slope is .5

Rise/Run = Slope

1 / .5 = .5

What Brain posted is correct, although I'm not quite sure why he is using 4.25v = 18.5 AFR... As I am pretty sure the gauge only reads from 10-18 AFR.

So I don't see why you wouldn't just use 0v = 10 AFR and 4v = 18 AFR

but it doesn't really matter as long as you have 2 data points with the same slope, it's all the same linear formula.

I'm not exactly sure how it calls for the inputs in TunerStudios, but as far as linear algebra goes, you could even put 0v = 10 AFR and .5v = 11 AFR and it's the exact same thing.

 

Lol My lower shift boot is not currently installed and Ive been attempting to tune my car all day.... Needless to say I've been a bit loopy all afternoon. Come to think of it now I know where this splitting headache came from...

 

I'm really hoping to get a couple hours to start messing with the tune today. I'm also hoping those numbers work, haven't input them yet.

So anyways, I'm pretty set on "the plan" now:
-Sold the 2560, will be running the t25g. Currently rebuilding completely.
-Will run the stock injectors and stock clutch and pump gas for now
-Will "test the limit" of both the stock clutch and stock injectors. For science

T25 housings are getting sand blasted by a friend in the next few days. t25 rotating assembly getting balanced at G-Pop shop currently. Hoping to get it back next week. Right now my only hold up is Flyin Miata having their silicone lower rad hoses on back order, so I gotta wait for that. Then I'm gonna need to find a couple days to dedicate to start installing all the turbo parts

 

Vlad, you want my RC750s to play with for better flow? No charge until you find something better, then ship ehm back.

 

Thank you my friend, but I have ID725's sitting in a box. I appreciate the offer though

The point of stock cluch and injectors is mostly:
-have fun while testing the "true" limits and posting about it here
-finally fry the stock clutch so I don't feel bad about taking it out and throwing it away
-boost the car quickly instead of overthink and overbuild everything and never enjoy it

After this, my next goal will be to test the limits of this T25G. Then..who knows

 

I'm excited to see what your small baby turbo can do. Strangely enough the 2860 is just a little too much power for me unless I cut the boost in half.

 

$10 says you can't come anywhere close to the "Alpha and Omega" numbers on stock injectors.

You're just not experienced enough...

 

Or why not wire the setup properly so it comes with with key "ON" and doesn't get interrupted? That's how all the AEM things in my car are wired. (Their boost gauge requires it)

 

My ringlands are not experienced enough

 

Innovate stuff don't behave nicely with the voltage drop while cranking. The safe way is to power it through a terminal that is live on Run but not during Crank.
But I have not tested with a dedicated wire from the kill switch though.

 

I had to use a spare battery from another car on the last ms3x to power the stupid MTX-L through cold crank/ase/beginning of WUE.

It works, but is super annoying and frankly I just don't care. AEM is up and running within 3-4 seconds vs like 15-30 for the Innovate.

The stupidest part is that it says "warming up" even after you hot-restart the car. Obviously its not warming up. It's so stupid.

Great wideband otherwise.

 

Yeah... my very first wideband was an Innovative... it was also my last Innovative. Been using UEGO's since 2005 and they are so much easier... Operationally and wiring.

Do you still have the stock fuel pump?

 

He won't come close to tapping out his fuel pump. I barely could justify it.

 

I'm wondering because I'm still using my stock fuel pump, and I am using RX8 440cc injectors and a T25...

Wondering if using the stock fuel pump will give me problems or if I will be fine, as I haven't really looked into it.

 

You'll be fine. I only started approaching high duty cycle with ID1000's @25psi around 300+HP. Only time it makes sense is your duty cycle or your OEM pump fails.

 

I gave up on my LC-2 .... The Controller took a dump after I had it installed for maybe a month when I was bone stock. It sat after that for 3 months. Tried to get MS going on the turbo setup and realized I had no wideband. Been extremely happy so far with the new UEGO w/ new o2 sensor. Not to mention wiring it was a billion times easier. Power-Ground-Singal, done!

I wish I found that out before I got my Walbro when I first started buying parts... I still haven't installed it because I now know that my stock pump is doing the job just fine. I guess its nice to know I have it in the garage in case the stock pump ever fails

 

Depends on your car and your needs. Its a little different in 18psi's NB without vacuum reference on the FPR and 60psi base pressure. The stock NB pump & system is not exactly a team player when you start asking it for much more beyond its design capacity. Its been tested, and its not great. You guys with the NAs have the 1:1 FPR from the factory and base pressure is 43.5psi? Its kinda a different animal.

 

I ran 550s on a stock pump (which was maxed at 108% duty cycle...) , when I upgraded to a 255HP the car was SUPER rich up top, ended up pulling some fuel out, then realized I was now only at 75% duty, so cranked to boost up to get it back to about 105% duty cycle.

TLDR- more pump means more booosstt

 

At 16 psi boost, the fuel rail is at same pressure (assuming no pressure drop in supply line) for either system. So, I'm not sure why that is a deficit over the referenced FPR regarding fuel and boost. Over 15 or 16 psi then I can see a difference. Also, how would a pump that can push more volume help if the in-tank regulator is just dumping the excess?