You do not need an exhaust shop to make you IC pipes. I used an ebay pipe kit, and a hacksaw to cut the pipes to length. It takes a little longer and your arm gets tired from sawing, but it works and it is cheap.

 

What Lars said. Odds are an exhaust shop will do a very shitty job since they will rush it and your pipes will rub everywhere. Aluminum is very soft so the hacksaw will work fine on it.

 

forget a hacksaw, upgrade to a cut-off wheel.

 

I saw trying to get it so that both arms were equal size. One side had been getting a bit larger then the other.

 

Agreed. lol

 

I actually really want a chop saw with a metal disc. Because my cutting wheel can't fit the entire length of the pipe, I have to cut around the perimeter. I've never been able to make my lines meet, and I'm too lazy to tape it and mark it.

Then again I've also been too lazy to buy a chop saw.

 

wideband, spark plugs, spark plug wires, are in.

 

Ensure you read the LC1 instructions carefully especially when you calibrate it.

 

should this be in the builds thread? i'm not sure why but for some reason i hate seeing this on the main page everyday before i choose what category to go in.

on topic: I used an electronic bandsaw with metal blade so i could save my jerk off strength for later. If you ever see one for a good price i use mine all the time and was a great investment.

 

jeez,

 

i got mine for ~200 it was an open box return but i think harbor freight makes one for about 100 and i know a few people that have it and say it's pretty good. it's not nearly as sturdy or well built but they've all had them for a couple years with no complaints. you just have to take better care of them as they aren't as well built.

you could literally eat a sandwich while you were cutting your ic pipes. i use mine to cut all kinds of stuff. it's much easier to use then my sawzall on smaller things.

 

That's what I want on a stand.

Yeah, I'll move this to the builds thread section.

Any idea for a creative thread title? I just woke up.

 

The Harbor Fright mounted one (4x6) is pretty decent. I'd got one, and use it regularly.

 

I'm actually surprised with the lack of fail so far for how much you haven't read. I think that's why there's also a lack of flaming in here, because although you haven't read much, you listen to instructions and are grateful for advice. Looks like its coming along nicely. Once you get everything bolted up (and wideband calibrated) you may want to post your .msq (megasquirt tuning file) in here before tuning so some experienced guys can look over it to make sure you have sensors and such set up right (unless you have somebody local thats familiar with megasquirt, which is way better)
Oh and in case you hadn't read about it, mount that iat sensor on cold side of intercooler end tank.

 

Actually there was a lot of advice given. Step by step advice and he managed to not follow most of it. Most of us older folks saw that and moved on.

 

pretty much summarizes this whole thread.

 

So new problem. Car is acting weird. While driving on the freeway, the temp. gauge started reading hot. I pulled over on the side and checked my coolant level and it was still full.

-There's no leaks. Engine bay was dry
-Radiator still new
-Radiator hoses are hot (I'm guessing coolant is flowing)
-Coolant level in radiator & coolant reservoir full
-Fan still works.

I'm going to replace the radiator cap to see if it makes a difference. Could the water pump be bad? Does the skid plate make a difference? I remember someone calling me a total douche bag for removing it. (I didn't have the time to put it back on)

 

*cough cough*

 

Lol..

I forgot to mention I looked on here Miata Cooling System

for some help. I'll double check everything after work.

 

How did you burp your coolant? I am betting you have air trapped in your system. You then need to order one of Use it to burp your coolant and the over heating problem will go away. Also putting the undertray back on will help with cooling.