aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>corn hole juice.</p>

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Because I'm an elitist and I love stainless steel.

There is nothing worst than dealing with rusty hose clamps and fasteners while lying under your car. I tossed several boxes of clamps from different manufacturers that claimed to be "all stainless" but it turned out the worm drive was mild and only the band was stainless. They rusted so bad I ended up having to cut them off. Any more I use CompCams Gator clamps for worm drive stuff and all SS "fuel injection" type clamps for everything else.

Edit: ******* EDITOR! If I use certain symbols it cuts off my posts

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Almost done with the fuel system and I'm missing ONE fitting. Thank goodness for Winchester Auto in Santa Cruz, maybe I'll get it started in the next couple hours.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

inb4VICTORY!!!

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

If it wasn't for the bloody Santa Cruz traffic I would have had this done at 9 instead of midnight but at least it's done!

Return system seems to work. I jumped the connection in the diagnostics box to run the fuel pump flat out and then cranked the regulator to 100psi. I didn't get blasted with CA91 so I assume it's fine. I dropped it down to 90 and let it sit for 5 minutes while I thoroughly checked for leaks. I had one weeping connection that needed a little more torque but other than that, its looking solid. I'm going to leave it set at 60psi base pressure and go drive it around a bit tomorrow morning and see what it does.

I claim conditional victory. Pics tomorrow.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

What better way to test your completely unproven fuel system than to drive 2 hours across the state?

gesso

iTrader: (1)

Twin charged! Sequential even.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

It started! But its leaking, need to solve that before it can be driven. Also not driving 2 hrs home tonight this sleep deprived.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Also, surprise, 100% throttle while cranking no longer gets you into flood clear? WTF? I need a clean pair of shorts after that discovery.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>It does if you've configured it to. Check your settings.</p>

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Love that electric supercharger.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I hope you didn't discover this at 1:22am or your neighbors probably called in a drive-by

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

It WAS set that way in 1.2.x, I'm glad they renamed it or whatever in 1.3.x
Its green and free.
Yes we did actually, and Gesso's neighbors so I'm actually more impressed that it started at 98% of WOT more than anything else.

So here is a woefully incomplete set of pictures:


Fuel lines and turbo drain from the other day. I seriously hate the orange sausage so I sleeved it in DEI silver stuff. Also seen here, Mr. Monk's Miraculous Bovine Serum Tape™

I have no pics of the regulator installed, but it works


Finalized intercooler upper mount. Again, it bolts to the factory upper condenser mount. It's not there to hold weight, its just there to keep the top of the IC in place. It's slotted to provide a little left/right movement while installing and the relief cuts ground in the edge are there to clear a ridge in the factory mount.


Top hat spacer chingadera fresh from Gesso's spinny machine


This is how the OEM lower condenser rubber isolator sits on the top hat. Veddy gud!


There she is in her new home on the drivers side.


Drivers side again from a lower angle, with the intercooler on top. The weight of the intercooler is almost completely supported by the radiator/condenser mount, rather than "hanging" from the upper mount.


Passenger side doin' the same. We pushed the intercooler forward so there is now slightly more than 1/2" between the IC and radiator cores and at least 1/4" between the IC and radiator end tanks.


Here you can see Gesso doing more fabrication magic with his fancy Miller TIG. If you look closely at the intercooler you can see the outline of where the top hat will be welded on. We cut off the edge of the top hat so its flush with the face of the back of the tank. In theory, the IC and radiator should never be allowed to touch, even with both the rubber mounts.

And then I failed to get a picture of the top hat welded to the IC

At this point we depowered the steering rack and I took zero pictures. I'm on the fence as to if this was a good idea or not. You will notice at this point I pretty much stopped taking pictures.


Changed the oil again, because why the hell not? Much smaller particulate and much less of it. Hopefully it stops doing this soon... New turbo, new oil seemed logical, I didn't want to risk getting anything in the bearing cartridge. It was an early change but IDGAF. Rotella T 15w40 dino oil as we finish the last couple hundred miles of the break in cycle.


A wild EFR appears! Also, you can see the Fuelab 53501-1 regulator in the background.


Somehow this is the ONLY picture I have of the intercooler tubes. It's super unfortunate because Gesso does AMAZING work and they fit great.

I drove home with the turbo and it makes turbo noises I set the wastegate with absolute minimum preload on the "low" actuator and it still makes boost at like 3200rpm. I didn't have a boost gauge in the car at the time, but it'll start doing turbo things with very little provocation. I'm not confident enough in the tune to start doing full power pulls right now.

The FIRST thing I noticed about this setup is the amazing stability of my AFRs. In all the time running N/A I never saw this type of stability. My **** used to be (relatively) all over the place, but I think now that the IAT is in the fender and I have a ginormous IC, the consistent air temp is helping A LOT.

The second thing was the sound. You can absolutely hear the turbo doing things while cruising through residential neighborhoods. It's got that high pitched whirring whistle that says "I haz trubo" all over it. I need to figure out how to get that reigned in. We went with the MSM style hotside routing so building an airbox for this thing is going to be a challenge. Part of this may also be my Skunk2 throttle body as they are known for whistling at part throttle. We'll see.

The next part is the BOV. I'm running so little boost that it almost never does anything, but when it does its very noticeable. It scared me the first time it went off. It's not that its that loud, its just very distinct. I've got the Turbosmart recirculating one on there now, I may swap it out for the BorgWarner one and see what happens.

The next was more subtle, and that would be the exhaust. Its completely un noticeable. It's insanely silent compared to all the other noisy things I've now added to the car. And I absolutely LOVE it.

I've been working crazy hours trying to get a work project done so I've not had a lot of time to play with it, other than to drive around and listen to the sounds and check for issues. While the car is doing MUCH better with things like stop signs and traffic lights (no more stalling) my hot restarts have become abysmal. I'm also not 100% sold on the depower. I think I probably should have driver 2-3 more cars with depowerd racks before I made this leap. I'm going to put something other than 225/45-15x9 combo on the car and see what happens.

Gesso: if you are still interested in trading your 15x8 for my 15x9 I might actually take you up on that offer.

I'll try to get more pics tonight.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Also, there was beer. Specifically, Gesso introduced me to something surprisingly drinkable from Sierra Nevada:



Its not exactly what I would call an Oktoberfest Lager, but its surprisingly drinkable and great in hot weather. I immediately went out and bought a 12 pack. Wife also loves it, so bonus points all around

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Ok, I need a quickie replacement air filter. I screwed up when I ordered my fancy Amsoil filter and it won't fit in the space I had avalible so I ended up stealing Gesso's really really old and really beat up K&N from his FM turbo kit in order to get home.

I used this data:

So using the above questionable data and my questionable inputs, I get 334cfm requirement for 110cid @ 7500rpm and 20psi

Looking at this air filter: K&N RD-0720 Universal Rubber Filter, Universal Air Filters

2.5" opening will clamp directly to the turbo inlet. 3.5" OD and 6" height.

Using more questionable data from the same source as above:

...I get 346cfm from that K&N RD-0720. Assuming the math is correct, its borderline but it will fit in the physical space I have available, and its avalible via Amazon Prime. If someone has a better filter that requires no thought, post up with a quickness before I order this.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

loving the progress
that fmic mounting is baller-tastic
also, your AFR's are probably smooth because you probably went from the crap-tastic returnless to return style fuel system?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Thanks! I'm actually quite proud of that particular feat, though I have to give credit to Gesso for his fantastic fabrication skills.

You are absolutely right. Now that I'm thinking about it, it did that before the turbo and after the addition to the return. Another +1 for the return system.

gesso

iTrader: (1)

They haven't mentioned it yet so I think I'm in the clear. We'll see what they say when I turn the garage in to a paint booth

We still have the steering rack in my NB if you want to go back to a powered rack.

And yep I'm game to swap my 8's and some cash for your 9's.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Oh geez, make sure you blow out the hot water heater first

Yeah, still on the fence. The car desperately needs an alignment and that will probably help, but I realized yesterday that my wife may never be able to drive the car like this.

I'd need to buy another set of 205 street tires to go with them, but I'm thinking about it. I love my 205 NT-01s on the 15x8s, so we'll see. Had I been thinking about it and had there been time, I would have tried to swap for your 205 sDrives on 8s while I was there. But we'll see. Tire budget is significantly constrained at the moment.

PatCleary

sDrives on 8s on that thing? Are you going to drive it daily? The sDrives are decent but with that much power I suspect they'd be pretty gripless. I spent the end of my sDrive's life spinning them everytime I stepped on it leaving a corner. And I just paid about the same amount for a set of sDrives as I did my Rivals. Oh and so much tire block flex.