EO2K

iTrader: (37)

5.8 psi (140kpa) @ 2300 rpm with zero wastegate preload. lololol

gesso

iTrader: (1)

0.o you aren't allowed to buy s-drives anymore.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Correction: so loose it rattles at idle

I need to pull the valve cover and check the clearances on the shims, its noisier than I'd like it to be.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Ok, so its not loose anymore and something in the turbo is definitely rattling. I'm going to try not to lose my mind until tomorrow when I have daylight to thoroughly check things over.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

<p>I'ts the sound of little magical unicorns trying to ram their way out of the compressor housing. It means you're not running enough boost.</p>

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

At idle? Seems excessive

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

<p>All of the boosts, all of the time. This isn't miatarunnoneofit.net yet.</p>

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

It def makes boosts, I can assure you of this

AFRs are excessive right now, running as high as 10.5:1 so that needs to be sorted but I need to get this rattle crap figured out. Its very much grating on my nerves.

I also swapped out the turbosmart recirc valve for the stock BW one and it has a much more civilized sound. Less sharp *** 'CHARF!' racecar noise and more rubbery kinda 'foooooop' noise. Much more tolerable.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I bet the rattling from the turbo is from the wg flapper being too loose. I've had that happen before

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Needs more CHARF, less FOOP.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

It's only excessive if you aren't a little magical unicorn trying to ram your way out of a compressor housing.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Does more preload usually fix it? I tried 1mm and 2mm of preload and it still seems to do it. The shaft seems to move in and out of the housing an awful lot more than I'd expect, could that cause it? I'm going to do a bolt check tonight and see what I can find. I'm also going to pull apart the housing and check for wheel rubbing, because honestly, this is me we are talking about.

Needs more CHOO CHOO MUTHAFUCKA!

I'll put the turbosmart back on for trackdays, so everyone will know when I lift rather than rear end them. Might help with point bys

18psi

iTrader: (76)

put more pre-load on, like a lot more and just drive it out of boost and see.
I'd start there cause it takes all of 3 seconds to test

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I should get a boost gauge.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

eh, with properly tuned boost I find myself almost never ever looking at the boost gauge
I didn't even bother with one in the MSM, and once your car is properly fast you won't even look at them at all cause eyes will be glued to road due to butt puckering warp speed

1st to 2nd shift is almost always done by sound/feel cause you're likely to smack the limiter hard if you don't shift immediately.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Boost gauge can be helpful ish for tuning. Otherwise is just for show.</p>

18psi

iTrader: (76)

yeah, and I guess for dat economy (staying below 0)
tuning I always look at TS cause that's what actually affects the maps/cells

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

It needs to pierce the ears of those unsuspecting poor souls called normal people



Loving all of this G, and the FMIC is looking GREAT! Your exhaust is the 'quiet' magnaflowmaster 3" offset in/out correct?

When can we expect a videooooo? I'd be happy to just hear efr spoolz & slow driving around the neighborhood

PatCleary

Check that, I thought I could spin the SDrives because they were done. Did the same to the new ones this morning. On the upside the car has power and tires are consistent down to the very last. On the downside, they're not 200tw Rival-y goodness. Not the tires I'd want in a lighter car with twice the power. On a side note, Rivals probably aren't a good daily either, stick with the RS-3.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

mickey thompsons wrinkle wall slicks
because sometimes you need to pop a wheelie on your morning commute