I think we all end up there at one point or another. You REALLY start to lose momentum when its not derivable and you start to forget how much fun the car can be. Go drive someone else's NB and you'll catch the bug again.

Did you still want the spindle and hub? Its still sitting on my workbench.

 

Pretty sure ha had one last time I was over there. You should save it anyways, I'm about to get traction control up and running. I think I need rear abs too.

 

Depending on how you are doing TC the rear will come from the VSS.

I'm not aware of many people who have got this working though. What MS are you on Aidan? I need someone I can copy

 

<p>That was my plan, until I looked at logs and saw how screwy my VSS signal is, I'm worried the difference might be enough to screw with TC. ABS front and rear solves this problem because the signal sources are identical. I will install the front ABS first and see how the speed signal looks in the logs, but I'm worried that I will need to add rear also.</p>

 

<p>Also the irony of all the VTEC kicked in jokes, and now Ed actually has VTEC.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

These are things I was afraid of. Did that NB you just bought include ABS and thus rear ABS uprights? Because that would make this easy, you can sell me a rear knuckle hub tingus, sensor and ring

I was thinking about that this morning, but I didn't want to be cruel.

 

<p></p><p>Maybe? I haven't seen the car. Someone else would know better. Maybe I can get the VIN.</p>

 

G, I'm sorry I never let you know, I ended up buying one off Richard's car since it was local and Josh dropped it off to me. Too bad, guess you'll have to stick with your plan of running traction control :P

I bet this new car has ABS. It's an '01 SE. It should have it.

Edit: come to think of it, shouldn't it have Sport brakes too? If so, just those are worth more than half what you paid for the whole damn car....

 

The sacrifices I make

Wait, that means Richard's car has rear ABS hub knuckle things with sensors and tone rings... do you guys know if they are still usable? I should probably PM Richard or Curly about it.

 

Passenger side was tossed. Driver side was sent home with Richard since it has his bushings in it.

Driver front was sold to ed, passenger front is bolted to my house as a hose reel.

 

<p></p><p>G come over to my thread we'll talk about it there. ABS rings in the rear are on the axle. I should have bits for you.</p>

 

My 01 SE does not have ABS. They do have Sport brakes and all the underbody braces stock, though.

 

Wait, this isn't your thread?

 

ALLOFTHETHEREADSAREMINE

 

Sport brakes could be had without ABS. I think, but am not positive, that ABS was never standard but was an option on LS/SE/MSM.

 

correct

 

Mazda confirmed it for me too :(

 

MSM ABS is standard, but optional on LS/SE.

 

I thankfully have sport brakes with no abs. That's almost definitely a non-abs washer bottle.

 

**S2000 update**

So, I tried to have the car aligned after swapping the steering rack but, well, it wouldn't. Front subframe too bent.

Acquired new subframe. Removed old subframe. One hole where the bolt went into the frame was tweaked, so I straightened that. After much cussing and fussing, I managed to get the bolt threaded in.

However, there's a bit of a problem. In the image below, you'll see the 3 subframe bolts. The forwardmost one on the driver side was the problem child. But I accidentally swapped the bolts. You'll notice that I should have been putting in the bolt with the threads most of the way down the shank, but instead I put in the bolt with just a couple inches of threads.





That's pretty dumb, but then I reached a whole new level of dumbassedness. I started tightening the bolts with a regular socket wrench, but then that bolt got really hard to turn. I knew it wasn't cross threaded and I was getting impatient, so I decided to put the impact wrench on it. MUHAHAHAHAHA!! It was tightening... Then I could tell the 'nut' inside the frame broke loose. Holy ****. OK, so I tried to back the bolt out... not happening. I'd wedged it in there. And obviously, since the threads didn't go far enough up the shank, it wasn't holding the subframe in.



So I figured I could cut it off, then drill it out... Maybe cut a hole in the frame to try to weld the nut back inside so it'd stop spinning... But I found that however the nut is mounted in the frame, it was still quite difficult to turn, and the bolt of course is in there VERY securely. SO. I decided to do this:



Which resulted in this:



cleaned up a bit...






Got it tapped. Took me close to 2 hours, i was being very careful. Even so, i chipped the die. It was also over 90 degrees out and I was working in the driveway. I love heat exhaustion.



Ready to go!



Got the car back together, and after setting the alignment bolts the same on both sides it really feels pretty good. Hoping to get an alignment done today. Still have the following to do:

• reset radio code
• Figure out why the EPS is unhappy. Driving with unassisted steering currently.
• car thinks the eBrake is on even when it's not
• passenger airbag/module, and clear airbag light
• ABS light is on. not sure why.
• bleed the brakes again. They're awfully spongy.
• I hope that's it, dammit. Although we'll see what the alignment says.

That being said, all that stuff is now taking a back seat. Since the car is now drivable, it's back to the Miata. Next weekend swap brake lines and mount steering column, then off to paint.