Rebuild all the salvage Miatas! ASS!
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
I have a tig...but there's no way were seam welding after paint. Throw that idea away Ed.
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<br />I do like the sound of the v8r beefiness. And the powder coating is supposed to be pretty strong too.
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<br />Which would you pick G?
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<br />I do like the sound of the v8r beefiness. And the powder coating is supposed to be pretty strong too.
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<br />Which would you pick G?
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lake Forest, CA
https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/seamweld.php
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<br />That shows it's all internal, so I could always get some spray paint to match. But you're right, that's silly. I should have done it sooner. Anything I could do to increase rigidity that's reasonable, but at this stage that's probably not really reasonable.
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<br />That shows it's all internal, so I could always get some spray paint to match. But you're right, that's silly. I should have done it sooner. Anything I could do to increase rigidity that's reasonable, but at this stage that's probably not really reasonable.
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Elite Member
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From: Santa Clara, CA
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
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From: Lake Forest, CA
Maybe we could do a couple of the spots that end up covered by carpet? Or covered by fenders and such? Maybe not engine bay stuff since that's visible... Will have to take a look when it comes back. Would love to play with a welder. Plus I have a grinder if we create birdshit welds.
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If you are budget conscious, pick whatever is cheaper + shipping.
If you are weight conscious, pick the FM as they are a ton lighter.
If you want the beefiest, heaviest, most overbuilt framerails on the planet, get the V8R.
IIRC (and I could be wrong) Crusher had a set of the V8R rails, but that car was I believe dyno classed. So while it was weight sensitive they were also trying to meet specific goals. While the V8Rs are heavy, they are also very very low as to the CoG on the car. Check out the size of the hardware V8R uses compared to the FM, its pretty dramatic.
Again, I'd pick the FM rails. I'm not going to tear the tub in half with a BP 
Oh MIG absolutely would work. TIG is so much cleaner though, less spatter all over the paint and such. With the right prep you could probably make anything work.
We all probably should have started this conversation before Ed sent the car out for paint
If you are weight conscious, pick the FM as they are a ton lighter.
If you want the beefiest, heaviest, most overbuilt framerails on the planet, get the V8R.
IIRC (and I could be wrong) Crusher had a set of the V8R rails, but that car was I believe dyno classed. So while it was weight sensitive they were also trying to meet specific goals. While the V8Rs are heavy, they are also very very low as to the CoG on the car. Check out the size of the hardware V8R uses compared to the FM, its pretty dramatic.
We all probably should have started this conversation before Ed sent the car out for paint
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lake Forest, CA
<p>Alright.</p><p>According to info I'm finding, the V8R ones are 15 pounds and the FM ones are 13 pounds. So according to that, the weight isn't that much different.</p><p>I am going to buy the FM ones. I want stainless steel. I have seen some pics from people who have the V8R ones and they scraped and rusted. Ugly. Nope. Underside of the car = stainless. I spend the extra money on the zerks, I'm spending the extra money on the rails.</p>
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15lbs each and 13lbs for the pair? Because that sounds more accurate
Oh yeah, also stainless. Mine are still pretty and I scrape them every time I roll in and out of the driveway.
Oh yeah, also stainless. Mine are still pretty and I scrape them every time I roll in and out of the driveway.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lake Forest, CA
<p>Yeah. Aidan alerted me to the GarageStar stainless ones. I can have those for $160 shipped, whereas the FM ones are $185 shipped.</p><p>I told him that I think the FM ones are prettier. He responded:</p><p>
</p><p>Which is true.</p><p>Josh (curly) keeps saying not to do the butterfly braces. I am thinking to do the FM braces and add the Sport bracing back on, and go from there.</p><p> </p><p>Why is this so difficult? WTF is wrong with me?</p>
IT'S THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR
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Thread Starter
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From: Lake Forest, CA
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</p><p>want to sell me your butterfly brace when I come down for MRLS?</p>
I have FM frame rails and butterfly, although the actual butterfly portion spends most of its time sitting on the workbench, rather than actually bolted to the car. Why? Well, the center section is a serious PITA to get on/off, and it needs to come off to do pretty much anything with the exhaust. So I take it off and I don't put it back on after finishing because I want to test it first. Then the difference it makes in actual around-town driving in my NB is fairly minor, so I never get around to reinstalling it. The frame rails, OTOH, never have to come off again. I hate door bars. Major downgrade in interior comfort and usability, IMHO. --Ian
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lake Forest, CA
<p>Yes, that's exactly why I want it. it's pretty, after all.</p>
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Beaverton, USA
I like the idea of doing the easy to get to seams. Split the cost of gas and filler with me and I'd definitely be down. Not until later though.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lake Forest, CA
<p>Sweet. I'll pay for gas and filler, for sure. Winter project then.</p><p>Really getting excited here.</p>
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