<p>I've never been rammed that hard from behind before.</p>

 

<p>Glad I could provide such an eye-opening experience. Pretty sure I heard your girlfriend say that just a few minutes earlier.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>OK OK she said it to YOU, not to me.</p>

 

<p>Home depot racing brake duct inlets</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/gprmQXn" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://i.imgur.com/gprmQXnl.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imgur.com/uoHEcie" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://i.imgur.com/uoHEciel.jpg" /></a></p><p>Does this look right for the endlinks?</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/wM92cXM" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://i.imgur.com/wM92cXMl.jpg" /></a><a href="http://imgur.com/wznTqdu" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://i.imgur.com/wznTqdul.jpg" /></a></p>

 

Which HD Racing parts are those?

--Ian

 

<p>Some 3-2&quot; pvc. Going to be glued/riveted/connected somehow to the fog light bezels.</p><p>The hoses don't fit over the end of them right now so i'm gonna see what the lathe can do to them.</p>

 

End links look good. In most cases of lowered Miatas, I've found the 949 links to be perfect at their shortest setting. I know zilch about sway bar pre/post/pro-loading, but at their shortest length, the bar is usually parallel to the ground. The biggest thing I look for is that the end links still pivot freely by hand when the car is on the ground.

 

The car is still missing 2 shocks so this was just installed. There are way more spacers than needed so I tried to line up the link so there wasn't any side loading.

 

<p>Been working on it, failing at posting pics.</p><p>Lots of stuff happening simultaneously.</p><p>EWG dump tube flex pipe was broken.</p><p>http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/...8518_HDR_1.jpg<br />&nbsp;</p><p>Ben (yank) kissed it better.</p><p>http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420/trturbofan/10AE%20build/IMG_20150825_192922.jpg</p><p>Finished the seat mounts [insert pic of ugly hacked up garbage here] and it holds the seat down. Need to mess with the slider adjustment handle but that's not imminent. I hold more expletives for Sparco since their POS sliders have a significant amount of slop, translating to slop in the seat. I'm so damn fed up with their poor workmanship. Once again: NEVER AGAIN SPARCO. I'd expect this shitty quality out of a cheap chinese product, not this stuff.</p><p>Put the carpet in. It was filthy, so I cleaned it. It's not filthy anymore. I didn't take a picture.</p><p>Apparently I scrapped the tin stuff that fits behind the bulkhead. Ooops. For now I'll be running without that tin stuff. I thankfully didn't scrap the fuel tank cover bits though. Ordered new gaskets for the fuel tank seals, and ordered new alignment bolts. Speaking of which, forgot to get those from our parts department today. Snap.</p><p>Martin still has my shocks for testing. Should get them back this weekend or real early next week.</p><p>In a follow-up to Aidan's post, Home Depot Racing came through bigtime again. 3&quot; to 2&quot; adapter is actually about 3.5 ish to 2.5 ish, which works great for my purposes.</p><p>turned down the 2.5ish part so the 2.5&quot; hose would fit over it. It looks fiddly but only took about 5 minutes per side with the dremel and works a treat.</p><p>[img]http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420/trturbofan/10AE%20build/IMG_20150831_143051586.jpg[img]</p><p>I then roughed up the fog light covers and the adapter and glued them together:</p><p>[img]http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420/trturbofan/10AE%20build/IMG_20150831_143056106.jpg[img]</p><p>[img]http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420/trturbofan/10AE%20build/IMG_20150831_143111404.jpg[img]</p><p>within an hour I couldn't pull them apart, and I pulled hard. Now that they're fully cured I'm sure it'd take an act of God (or my luck) for them to come apart. I'll post pics of the glue later. It worked extremely well. Ready to go in.</p><p>Swapped out the lower part of the intake and gave the upper to Yank for port matching to the Skunk2 TB. Then, the next day, I bought a square top <img alt="" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/birthday[1].gif" title="Party Kitty" /> Going to proceed with VICS, then at some point will do a back to back dyno at 300+ whp. Wooten. Speculation time will come to an end, then.</p><p>Josh and Aidan are coming over Sunday, hope to do first start. Then it's just putting the interior and glass in, intercooler plumbing, and adjust allthethings.\</p><p>It's close! I can taste it. Tastes a little bit like confetti.</p><p>[img]http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420/trturbofan/10AE%20build/IMG_20150830_215038589.jpg[img]</p><p>Oh, and I took some crappy pics of my fuel line routing from the tank side. I expect this doesn't help anyone at all. But here they are.</p><p>[img]http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420/trturbofan/10AE%20build/IMG_20150829_222120333_HDR.jpg[img]</p><p>I should probably get some of those nifty fuel line clamps and replace these worm gear clamps. Maybe. Eventually.</p><p>http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/..._222144267.jpg</p><p>Those hard lines disappear into nowhere. I don't know where they go. I left them disconnected.</p>

 

<p>dammit stupid photo uploader thing is not working for me for the first time ever. ugh. Let's try again...</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Edit: screw it. I don't even care. Pics are borken, click the links to view. Sowwy.</p><p>Edit X2 the links don't even work. This is ridiculous.</p>

 

You need a /img at the end.

--Ian

 

Let me fix this for you:

 

Thanks Zaphod.
<br />
<br />Gentlemen I have a question. Are AN fittings for stainless&nylon braided hose different than fittings for JUST nylon braided hose? I got a new oil cooler hose but it's slightly larger in outside diameter and I can't get the old fittings on. Oi.

 

<p>Hoses and fittings should match brands is what ive heard.</p>

 

Hmm. Ok. Also, on the sandwich plate, which port should go to the thermostat side of the oil cooler? How does that even work?

 

<p>Oil cooler thermostats open and close a bypass. Oil is always flowing through the cooler, because if it didn't you would get a pressure drop. But when it is cold the thermostat opens a passage to let the oil by without going to a cooler.</p><p>@curly can help with the routing. I think he runs one. Google too.</p><p>BAM</p><p>http://www.nopistons.com/fsm/88FSM/0...ION_SYSTEM.pdf</p><p><img src="http://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/746x695/80-34hbq2g_6737e6e62ab602354fe7c3fbbc93660cfd11c2fb.p ng" title="" /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p><p>BAM</p><p><img src="http://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/360x298/80-thermostatic_sandwich_adapter_4_04f5f44b41d513b7e9 0e37be1551340abf70e5c5.jpg" title="" /><br />&nbsp;</p>

 

<p>oops, sorry josh. don't ban me plz</p>

 

Lulz. Never mind. Fitting fits fine, just had to remove all electrical tape and push it on. Okidoke.
<br />
<br />As for the thermostat goody, I don't know if it matters. But I'll ask Josh for sure.

 

<p>See my pictures. It shows the routing</p>

 

Oh awesome, thanks for posting. So assuming my sandwich plate is the same, that's how it should be. Very good!

 

Even more than that, some manufacturers have multiple lines of hose and fittings, and they aren't necessarily interoperable. IMHO the best way to handle it is to pick a brand and stick with it for everything you put on the car.

AFAIK Mocal is pretty much the only company out there making thermostat sandwich adapters for oil filters, so you should be good.

--Ian