Undertray from street sign and ducting from white coroplast for oil cooler. Any resemblance to a street sign at the Air Force base Southern Command headquarters visitors parking area is a coincidence.

Nice improvements. How did everything perform at MATG?

Thankfully it was just fine. Just wanted to have a good time with no drama and it worked out.

I dig the undertray.

No drama? Is there generally drama at that event?

I've been to MATG twice and have never experienced any drama. I think he means a nice extended weekend getaway from "life."

BTW. It was nice meeting you at MATG, Steve. I am happy to report the radiator I got from you made it home safe and sound! It survived many trips through the dragon in the trunk without any problems. Color me surprised. :laugh:

No, but a life goal of the turbo Miata owner is to be able to take weekend trips without anything stupid happening to the car. Some succeed. Many don't.

That makes a lot more sense.

Yes, drama as in my vehicle has failed at an inconvenient time causing me to be the boat anchor dragging all of my cohorts down. There thankfully wasn't any.

MATG was successful and car was reliable.

Now time for more upgrades.

750/400 Xidas with helper springs and V8R adjustable aluminum upper control arms.

Coilovers no hit FUCA

Preparing for Sebring track day this Saturday.

Changed oil and filter. Swapped to my singular vented track hood. Reinstalled homemade cool shirt cooler system and wired it back in. About to get suspension realigned to add caster because 4.5 isn't enough.

Haven't been on track since January and have been dealing with vertigo and migraines for two months so we'll see how it goes. I don't expect to be fast but want to get out there.

This will be the first track day with the larger thicker radiator, oil cooler being ducted, and larger brake ducts. We will see if better or worse.

Steve, how did you determine that you need more camber?

I didn't. It needs more caster. This is most evident by twitchy behavior over uneven pavement.

I really, really hard to write “caster”. Yet still wrote camber. Fortunately, you answered the question in my head, not the one I asked in my post.

How well do the subi hood vents work? Do you recommend them? Did they help?

They do extract air but don't have the volume of some of the larger ducts like Singular. I opened them up with a saw. They are my street vents. I have a separate track hood with the singular vents. Needs depend upon rain and how much cooling you need.

Thanks. Will post some questions in the hood vent thread.

Car stopped holding 20psi to redline. I snooped around under the hood and adjusted a few pipe couplers but didn't see anything glaring. I removed the BOV and plugged the hole and its behavior didn't change.

I bought a boost leak tester from silicone intakes. I like it a lot. See pic.

When I pressurized the system I heard a leak and found an intercooler pipe that had partially collapsed. See pic.

I replaced it and replaced one small vacuum line that was leaking. Now it holds pressure with the tester. So I took it for a drive.

Same problem persists. It usually spikes up to 20ish and then drops back to about 16. Sometimes it struggles to get to 16 and never spikes. It used to go right to 20 and hold dead steady.

It holds pressure from the air compressor without leaks anywhere. Testing with the key on, the boost solenoid rapidly cycles when I get the test pressure close to 20. It's like a jackhammer. The two different boost settings make it happen at different pressures, 12 and 20psi, so I guess it is working correctly. IDK if it is supposed to cycle so rapidly on not.

This is a Longshot but maybe the wg can failed and it's blowing open causing boost to do whatever the eff it feels like

That is definitely not a long shot. I put a mityvac tester on the wastegate actuator can and it held vacuum without leaking. Applying pressure causes it to open with no audible leakage there either.

Interesting find. There are different sizes of the rubber grommets that mount on the top side of the fuel injectors. The small ones let the injectors push back from their bores and leak boost.

Have you fixed it yet to see if that was the all or some of the problem?

There were a few little leaks in a bunch of places I never would have found without this tester, but they weren't the actual problem. I love this tester and that it allowed me to find them.

Applying pressure to the tester with the key on and playing with the ebc settings let me determine the GReddy Profec Type-S wasn't always behaving in a predictable manner. The head unit is getting flaky. I did eventually determine that with the "gain" knob turned all the way down to zero the boost would hold all the way to redline like it used to when adjusted halfway up. And it didn't waver on the way up as much.

I went ahead and ordered a different wastegate actuator to switch from 8 to 14-16 psi for a base level. Because who ever just wants 8 psi? Maybe in the rain or something. It should make the boost control solenoid and the actuator not work so hard.

I may have to learn to use the onboard boost control in the MS3 Basic...