I can agree with you on that last one. I was actually considering doing this with a set of Magnecor KV85 Miata plugwires that are sitting in my garage, but I'll want to see how this comes out with the NGKs :bigtu:

I got a present today.
Attachment 127923

Went to the dragstrip for fun just to see what the car could do. I kept having trouble getting the shift from 3rd to 4th. I don't know if it was trouble finding the gate or synchro issues. I was told my trans fluid was not as thin as it could be for optimal shifting, but it works well for the road course. Even on my best run of the night, it was very notchy and didn't readily want to go into 4th. This was on old Hoosier SM6 road race tires I have been driving on the street because it is warm (74ish degrees at the track at 9pm) and seldom rains in Florida in the winter.

Overall, I had a fun time but wouldn't want to abuse my drivetrain like that again. Troy (Miata2fast) and my buddy Gary came down to offer some coaching to me. Troy rode with me and Gary brought his turbo 350z (425whp) to put in some runs. Kjrage from the local forum showed up in his Miata to hang out for the evening, too, but he didn't run his car.

On to the videos.


Lined up against Mustang of some sort with a big hood bulge:



Lined up against Mustang Cobra thingee:



No video of run three. It was a single lane pass with a missed shift to 4th and a 13.7 ET.


Fourth run had me lined up against Volvo S60R:


If I was a better driver or willing to launch a little harder (pussay) I'm sure it would be better.

How did Gary do in the Z?

It was like he was on ice with the ancient street tires he was using. His 60ft times were closer to 3 seconds than to 2 seconds. That and he has the rear suspension dropped down too low for looks and it bottoms out when the weight transfers rearward which makes it spin easier. And he's got too much rear camber because he's got it so low. He's too stubborn to fix the last two items.

So you were faster then I presume?

He was in the high 14s but had a 107-8ish mph I think. Troy saw his slips and I didn't.

Slips?

Maybe that's what I was doing wrong.
The slips are pictured at the end of each video but I will upload them to photobucket and get them up on the timeslips thread, too. It just hasn't happened yet.

In the cue to enter the track this morning at Miami-Homestead Speedway.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422272144
Attachment 131862

Sweet jesus

McLaren, Z/28, C7 Z06, SLS AMG, GTR's galore. Lots of the high dollar hardware is in the beginner group, too.

Attachment 131868



Attachment 131869



Attachment 131872

Ok, I haven't updated in a long while.

I installed the Skunk2 throttle body from Fab9. Nice piece of equipment. Using blue silicone couplers because Braineack hates them.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443374811

FD alternator is a direct bolt in for the NA8 alternator and will generate 100 amps to the NA8's 70 amps.

The only real differences are the long bolt in the bottom that comes from the rear on the NA8 needs to come in from the front on the FD alternator because the threaded section is in the rear. The other difference is the the FD has a 5 rib pulley. I am simply using the back 4 grooves. I could swap the pulley but saw no need to bother.

It works. It works fine. There are no problems with wack of power at idle as there were previously.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443374750



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443374750

What prompted the FD alternator install, were your subs and neons sucking too much juice for the stocker? Did you see any obvious gains from the throttle body?

I'd missed your Bradenton trip, I'm planning to make a trip out there sometime this winter.

There were no notable gains with the Skunk2. I don't think the stock throttle body was a point of restriction.

Too much bigass Spal fan and a tired stock alternator were contributing factors. I would love a radio if hearing the car wasn't important. I like hearing what the car is telling me. And my neon says "Liquor Beer and Wine".

you're telling me that the fd alternator bolts right in and its easier to bolt in because you dont have to shuv your hand between the jaws of a shark to get to? Grr wish i had known this 2 months ago. I just swapped my alternator.

And the intake brace isn't in the way when the bolt comes from the front. And 30 more amps on tap if you need them.

Are you able to compensate for the SPAL better now with the FD alt? I bought a 14amp H.O. alt on when I had my 14" SPAL but that thing would still bog the car down when it turned on.

It does a much better job, yes. 16 inch Spal here.

Is it bolt in for NA6 too?

I think my H.O. alt was a bust then. It was a rewound NB alt. Maybe its because they're regulated by the ECU so maybe I 'd have better luck going a different route.

Or use the FD alternator and ditch ECU control. :)

The NA6 uses a v belt and makes 60 amps. The FC alternator uses a v belt. Check into it for a possible fit unless you want to upgrade your balancer and water pump pulley for the FD unit.

I think the stock miata alternators just blow. Even the 55amp geo tracker alternator handles the big cooling fans at idle much better than the stock na8 alternator. And of course that one does that with a 3 lb weight savings.

I switched to the skunk2 TB for fear of losing a butterfly screw in my engine... Piece of mind for me.

That's why I did it.

How much re-tuning work did you do or intend to do after the throttle body install. Also, how much larger is the butterfly over stock?

I changed some of my AFR targets as well so it was necessary to autotune again anyway. The TB is visably larger but I don't recall the specs. I wasn't looking for empirical evidence of better flow in my VE table changes so I can't speak to that other than to say there were changes up and down in various spots. I know it can flow more than stock and is better made, but for me it was insurance against throttle failure and the loss of an engine and turbo.

Sixshooter's Slow Torture™ Build Thread
 

The car is on jack stands. 5speed and 4.10 are coming out and 6speed with 3.63's going in.

This is preparation for Daytona. Last year I was up against the rev limiter in top gear on low boost on both the front and back straights. No fun having to back off every lap. 144mph was all the gearing would allow with 7000rpm soft limit. Now I have Supertech light doubles, titanium retainers, a skunk2 TB, and I should be able to get over 160mph with 7200rpm limit if I have the HP to do it. And since I'm going from about 8-9psi to 15ish and had so much straight left, it will be interesting to see how fast it will go.

I hope it doesn't lose a tire or hub or something.

No aero right?

Imitation GV lip and a rear spoiler about 4 inches high, but I don't recall the name.

I seem to recall people complaining about the stock 6speed shifter a few years ago. Is there something I should know?

Spoiler is one of these :

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/p...909-495z_2.jpg

6 speed is not as nice as 5 speed. But I like it on the track more. It feels stiffer.

What motor mounts?

160 no aero should be fun

Mazda comp mounts.

I think you will like it if not there is the MR shifter.

In 4 vid with GPS speed readout (since speedometer will be pegged).

Does this car have a cage?

160mph in a street car with no cage is a bit cray-cray...

That's what I was thinking. Cray. No cage. Hard Dog DD and the matching door bars with a set of Kirkeys and 5pt harnesses.

I use Race Chrono right now so no overlay. Unless someone can recommend a way to make my Galaxy s5 talk to the GoPro. I never looked into it and could use a tutorial.

I need to order a corrected speedo gauge face from Revlimiter. That would complete the ensemble.

Use the Motorcraft fluid in the 6 speed.

If you don't know the life of any of your hubs, I would change all four this winter. Or at least the rears, and repack the fronts.

You can overlay afterwards with race render.

Motorcraft didn't work for me. It burned up.

I'm going to try a combination of Redline MTL and Redline Shockproof Ultralight. I've had great results with the Shockproof in the 5 speed with drag reduction and easing shifting by reducing synchro buzzing going into 3rd.

Yep, I know the transmissions are very different but I heard what Aidan had said about Motorcraft not holding up to the heat.

I know the Shockproof has worked well in other applications and I am willing to give it a whirl. I'll report if it works or sucks.

Overlay what? What program records the data? Can my Race Chrono or do I need a different one?

Good idea. Try things out. As long as you pay attention to it, maybe drain a little bit after a track day.

You have good heat shielding. I think you should be fine.

Richard, how long did you run Motorcraft on the track?

Race Chrono works fine. Its a little tricky your first time but I can write up a little how to with some videos next week.

This was made with RaceChrono, RaceRender, and my GoPro

Cool, thanks.

Since ... you got your license ?

Lol

I've run the Motorcraft since 2007 I think? It's always been in my car. I could dig up my m.net posts if I was motivated and not on my phone. You burning it up is the first I have ever heard of that happening. It's a full synthetic lifetime fill for street applications. I changed it yearly with about 8 track days/year average.

It's always worked for me. YMMV.

Understandable. I'm not hating on it. Just saying it didn't work for me. It also didn't help my shifting issues.

As Mobius said YMMV.

I never sent a sample off to blackstone for analysis. Next vehicle I'll do that when I change fluid after a season.

I'll send mine off too and we can compare!!!

Your instantaneous response time concerns me. I think you've been borged.

Us young guys are good at internetting.

Still real life

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444628587

Wait is that a murrica flag behind that TV?

What are you guys doing to my thread? Aidan's off topic ramble thread is over there somewhere>

lol

Pilot bearing had a little bump in it when I turned it by hand so it has been replaced. Throw out bearing is good and has low miles so will be reused. Rear main is newish and not leaking. Diff oil drained and it looked pretty green/dark. More heat shielding for diff will need to be arranged. Same with fuel tank.

Fuck ya!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444708594

Which fluid do you run in the diff?

I think it was just off the shelf Castrol from the auto parts store. I don't recall, but I think it was the heavier stuff 90wXXX whatever and not the lighter 80w90 judging by the consistency of what came out. It has been 3 years (I don't drive it much) and I just don't recall.

Exhaust was thinly veiled with heat fabric against the diff. There isn't much space, but there will be an additional layer this time. I am set up to make more power now and will be shielding everything more. At 6-8psi it was adequate. Not so much now.

Valvoline or Mobil1 synthetic for the diff would be my recommendation. I use the M1 but the Valvoline can be easier to find.

y u no Amsoil SVG 75w90? Is great for diff. Tough like bull.

Another vote for Motorcraft. I was about ready to give up on my 6 speed (notchy/grinding) before I replaced the Amsoil I was running and it shifts 1000x better now.

Do those have any noticeable affect on the car's aero? My car feels very unstable at higher speeds, especially on breaking/decel. It's considerably worse than other miata's I've had even after an alignment. I've been wondering if a lip and/or spoiler would help at all.