Good times. Thanks for coming out. It's always more fun when you've got buddies out there. It's even better when they are driving in the same session with you, so hurry up and get out there!

I bought something from Good-Win Racing last week and installed it on Saturday morning. Many more feels. Much more tight. And less money than a Miata Roadster group buy. The six speed gearbox is now tolerable!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...917_084914.jpg

EDIT: And I turned the boost up to 20.

When is the next dyno session? Or perhaps the drag strip?

I need to find a local dyno.

I am pretty sure there is one in Lakeland on Memorial Ave. The name of the place escapes me, but I can find out shortly.

That looks like the MR shifter, like to the T, did it come with a shift turret extender too?

Yup. I'm pretty sure thats that one. And yes it would have to come with a turret extender. You can see the bottom part is way longer.
MR-SSK-NB1-6-T-A-BR - MiataRoadster shifter kits - MiataRoadster - High-performance customer service...and parts for Roadsters

MR put them on sale this month but I got mine last month when Good-Win Racing was the cheaper option. I drove the car a few hours yesterday, mostly city driving. Shifter is good.

I got the hardtop glass and side windows lightly tinted and got 99.x% UV protection because harnesses and seat covers are fading. I kept it light for the sake of giving hand signals on track.

excellent
 

This is so perfect that I ran out to the Subaru dealer yesterday and got a set. By far the cheapest and best integrated way of venting the hood. How did you map our and mark where you cut? and could you post a side view under hood shot (from the drivers side to passenger side) I want to get a visual how much the come down into the area below the hood.

I think I understand how you trimmed the plastic in the back so they basically slide in and down with the shelf on the vent going under the sheet metal of the hood.

Chris Rummel

I eyeballed and measured. It needed to drain water between radiator and pulleys. I removed the screens because they lessen flow. I glued under the edges to retain them temporarily and never went back to do it right. The correct way would be taking the hood off the car and turning it over then applying industrial black adhesive to the underside. I'll fix it correctly when I get ready to paint the car.

Separation and location was all done by eye and with a tape measure and pencil. I took no consideration of the underhood bracing when locating them. I wanted them to be where I wanted them.

I may have posted all of the pics I have, but I'll upload everything I have from my phone in a minute.

Here.

Thanks for the update. I am doing this soon!

The modification is a few years old but he was asking for more pictures than I had posted earlier in the build thread. I don't take a lot of pictures of the car because it isn't pretty. It's functional.

good job
 

Well you did a hell of a good job with it. Enough to get me out to the dealer to get them. My car is just a street car, so i rather doubt that I need vents like the ones they sell at FM. These are just perfect and they look like they belong there!

props
 

My wife does vinyl work so when I do my vents I plan on having her make a temporary stick on template along with instructions and measurements to make this easier for those who follow. I figure I can sell the template and instructions for like $10 I'll be giving you full props for originating this vent option. again job well done.

Chris Rummel

That actually looks really good.

Upgraded to a larger oil cooler. Pic dump.

Old cooler:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_112112.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_112050.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_112136.jpg

New oil cooler is 2.75 inches longer and 2 rows wider.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_150057.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_150107.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_145812.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_145855.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_152714.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_152738.jpg

Old cooler versus new one.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_160422.jpg

Bottom of bumper mouth opening was notched to allow air to get to the rest of the intercooler and to bypass the intercooler beneath it to get to the radiator. More air is necessary. And the radiator getting air is primary, intercooler is secondary.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...507_183830.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...507_183804.jpg


And I had to replace my front shocks. Mazdaspeed Bilsteins brand new.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_165144.jpg

Whoa, clever solution

-

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_160439.jpg

Old cooler worked well enough, but I'm turning up the boost and want more headroom on hotter days. This was good enough for about 12psi on the 2871 without overheating. Part of the overheating problem was the retarded tune in boost caused by the IAT timing settings being wacked out. Retarded timing makes engines run hotter than with proper timing.

BTW, old oil cooler will be going up for sale along with the lines. All anyone will need is a sandwich plate.

The eggcrate foam is a great idea for lazy, push to fit, self sealing, ducting. I may be copying that.

This oil cooler location has always confused me. Sorry for the dumb question but where exactly does the air go once its through the cooler? How exactly is this thing getting airflow? Am I missing something because I have an NB?

The air coming up through the cooler goes rearward beneath the horizontal plastic filler plate, around the hood latch mechanism area, and into the radiator. I'm not sure how different the NB is in that area. When the radiator fan is running I can reach into the bumper mouth, through the space between the top of the intercooler and the horizontal frame brace and back over the frame brace to the topside of the oil cooler. With my hand there I can feel the warm air being drawn upward through that oil cooler and then rearward to the radiator. Laying on the ground you can see upward through the bumper mouth to the oil cooler. There is about an inch of distance at the front edge of the cooler between it and the bottom side of the bumper cover.

The trick to getting the best cooling is really to keep the air coming into the bumper mouth from going sideways to the fenderwell within the cavities created by the bumpercover's loose fittment against its supports. The foam is a simple solution that works well with all of the irregular angles.

The horizontal plastic filler plate can be seen in this pic. The bumper cover seals to it and it seals to the top of the radiator core support (with the aid of some duct sealing foil tape.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...120_112112.jpg

I think I'm picking up what you are putting down. I'll have the nose off the car sometime in the coming month so I'll check it out, thanks for the explanation.

The only thing that concerns me about this location is that it turns a 5/10 mph bump in traffic or in a parking lot into a potential engine destruction event. I'm not sure how I feel about that. :sad2:

5mph would bend the cooler or the aluminum brackets would bend and let it move rearward. 10mph would bend the radiator core support, both fenders, and the hood anyway.

I agree, anything that would damage it in the current configuration would likely damage it in a normal stack configuration.

any luck yet?:naughty: still waiting for more gtx28 results so I can hopefully order mine!

There has to be a few dyno jets in Tampa.

There are. But I took the turbo and manifold off to make some changes.

I did take a datalog of a 1 to 1 gear pull on the flat interstate last week. Maybe someone can drop it into VD. I've not ever used it.

Send me the file. I got you.

Datalog attached.

O2 numbers are weird. Funny, the TS AFR gauge on the laptop cluster was reading normal numbers and so was the XD-16 gauge face.

235kpa is about 19.5 psi.
230kpa is about 18.8 psi.
225kpa is about 18.0 psi.

What's up with the gammae?

It looks like I was still in warm up even after driving a few hours at that point.

Thanks to Ryan G for asking me for all of the details and sending the virtual dyno sheet to me. Here it is.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...s-dyno-map.png

That looks pretty solid! So shift points in the 5.5k-6k range to maximize torquey pulls?

I'm going to try to adapt that Subaru vent mod to my NB1 as well. I'll see if any of my subie friends have some sitting around. Need to figure out where to mount it there so rain won't have any negative effect if the car is sitting.

I usually shift between 6800 and 7100 on the track and it drops me to 5200-5500 ish IIRC.


So this dyno pull is about 3psi more and with more advanced timing than the 262hp 252tq pull I did on the dyno at Daytona. Sounds about right.

Equipped as follows- FM iron log manifold, GTX2867R, 3" downpipe with sharp dogleg, full 3" exhaust with HKS Hi-Power muffler, 2" hotside intercooler piping, ebay intercooler of unknown dimensions, 2.5" coldside piping, Skunk2 throttle body, DW700 injectors, MS1, 949 Supertech 8.4cr pistons, Brian Crower forged rods, Supertech light double springs, titanium retainers, '94 head ported by Miata2fast.

Places to improve- 99-up head, tubular manifold, better downpipe, better intercooler, cams, water/meth injection.

Things I have but not installed- Devil's Own water injection kit, Artech is building a tubular manifold and downpipe as we speak.

What are the dimensions of your oil cooler if you don't mind. I want to do this but I think my oil cooler is too big.

14in left to right. It is 15 rows tall but I don't recall the inches of height. I can measure when I get home.

I have the Trackspeed 25 row. It is 12 inches left to right which is not a problem but it is 8 inches deep plus 3 inches of 90 fitting. Doesn't look like it will fit the way you have it which is a bummer because I like that set up a lot. I won't know for sure until I get the bumper off. If anything I am sure I could trade someone for a smaller 10 or 16 row.

Well, there are multiple layers/levels to the inside portion of the bumper support. If my cooler had many more rows I would angle the frontmost nose end downward and seal it to the next level of plastic rather than the top one where I did. And that would leave the rear portion where the brackets and hoses are connected unchanged, aside from a different angle on the mounting bracket. If you lay down in front of the car and reach in the bumper mouth to feel the back side of the bumper support, I think you'll understand where I'm talking about. The air will pass upward through that area and go through the cooler at most any angle if it is sealed properly.

I also own an RX7 oil cooler and it would fit in the same location with different trimming. I debated which would be more efficient and decided the Setrab had many more fins per inch. The RX7 was longer and would require more cut length and I could always go to it later if desired.

Well, I can't walk straight or drive because of vertigo today, but I can fall on the ground with a pair of wrenches and put the new oil cooler hoses on my car. The fittings the hydraulic shop used are heavy and large diameter, probably a lot heavier than a real racing team would use, but the large inside diameter and gentle radius bends look good to me. And they fit very well.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...208_171504.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...208_171449.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...208_171523.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...208_171553.jpg

Six, picture of cooler from the bottom? Did you mount that into the plastic bumper support somehow? That's the are that you previously trimmed to flow more air to the radiator, right?

Yes, it is in the area I had previously opened up to give more air volume to the radiator. I simply opened it up a little more in a shape that matches the oil cooler. I couldn't get a good camera angle just now but here's some shots from beneath, looking up from the bumper mouth.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...209_140544.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...209_140826.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...209_140534.jpg

Nice. Should work well.

With the big Spal fan turning you can put your hand up there and really feel the air moving through it. At least you could with the smaller version. I'm sure this will do even better.

Maybe these will work for a bit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...213_091645.jpg


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...213_091702.jpg

Looks like this thread was started back in 2012 and you were fiddling with your MS1. Did you learn how to tune your car on the MS by yourself?

Yep. It was a combination of reading both on and off topic threads, manipulating the values and seeing the results, and just using it enough to be familiar.

thats awesome man. That's my end goal, being able to tune my own car. Hopefully I can have my turbo installed by New Years and give megasquirt a shot. I will def need some help.

Try to tune it NA first.
You'll be less likely to splode things.

that would make sense. I HAVE to learn. I mean, everyone and their mother here tunes their own cars.

Howdy Beefcake :) (yes - this was the guy)

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89428eb196.jpg

I understand this reference.

Trimmed a stepped down interior pipe restricting flow through the muffler out of it. It went from 3in to 2.5 for no apparent reason inside a portion of the baffled area. Not really easy to get way up in there. This is the after picture, 3in all the way through.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...223_154229.jpg

I bought a manifold.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...223_113331.jpg


It's curvy, not loggy.

Interested to see what the dyno sim difference looks like.

You would be good at getting all the way up in there and widening that hole :party:

I tried stretching it out with an expander first but finally decided power tools were needed to conquer it. Both rotary and reciprocating implements were employed. I bled and am bruised.

I see you like it rough

Built some heat shielding beneath and beside the new Artech manifold to keep the heat from destroying the water hoses and A/C compressor, etc.

Yesterday morning I had the v-band connection from the new Artech downpipe welded to the remainder of the exhaust piping. I then shielded the pipe to preserve the transmission.

I chased down a fitting leak on the new oil cooler hoses at the filter adapter. Tightening wouldn't cure it so I had to sand the rough edges down on the flare fitting faces. Then the other end at the cooler began to leak.

Sigh.

I guess I'll look into it tomorrow. Migraine has arrived. But so has boredom so here are some pictures to entertain you and me.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150109.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150124.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150137.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150147.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150016.jpg




Some of the previous heat shielding was made from scrap aluminum from one of my customer's yards and I made bracket tabs and used pop rivets to secure them.

The downpipe shielding came from a customer's junkyard and was factory shielding for a poly fuel tank on a minivan or something. I wrapped it around the pipe and secured it with clamps. As seen in the videos, it's not as glamorous as a bare pipe but works incredibly well.

Other pics including customized triple pass stock car radiator and shroud, Spal fan, upgraded valve cover outlets with larger venting lines, and catch can temporary location.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150228.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150044.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...101_150216.jpg

Other pictures of the parts that went into the car.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...40_resized.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...502_194401.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...721_121804.jpg