new manifold looks sexy

Lars is awesome!

MK TURBO midpipe back setup for the win!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...224_090737.jpg

This is the exhaust that came off the car. HKS Hi-Power 3in muffler with a bigass 5in tip and 3in exhaust. It was a little too loud for someone my age. But it probably sounds mellow with a catalytic converter. The muffler is apparently $200 new. I'll be selling it, pipe to the front of the diff and all, locally for $50 if you know anyone who wants it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...225_120058.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...225_120157.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...225_120337.jpg

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Updates:

I love the MK Turbo Magnaflow. Good job, Lars!

I pulled out the MS1 and installed the MS3 Basic. Didn't really need it but upgraded anyway. It handles a load better and really does well with the A/C. It allows me to idle a little lower and recover better when A/C or electric windows are engaged. The CANbus connection to the LC-1 is better because it eliminates the o2 signal offset the MS sees sometimes. It is a digital instead of analog signal to the ECU. MS3 Basic was lightly used and I got a fair deal on it.

I recalibrated the LC-1 and reset my base timing with a light. Timing was a wee bit off but that is remedied now. I did a little VEAL road tuning after tuning the basics. Then did some hand smoothing and interpolating. Then road tuned some more. I haven't gotten it up to the 240 KPA cells yet but it feels stronger than it did with the MS1 when it was in the 240 KPA range. Maybe it is my imagination. Or maybe it's that it is breaking loose when the boost hits in 2nd with a passenger now.

Eventually it will be ready for a VD run. And maybe a trip to a real dyno, too.

Maybe one day I'll hook up the water/meth injection system that's waiting in the garage.

I have been in the car in various stages of development over the years. Today the car feels like, "now that's what I'm talking about," fast to me.

Time for another virtual dyno!

Are you using open or closed loop idle control? I know when I looked at Frankb's stock map for his MS3basic at your lake house Rev only did open loop. I would highly suggest switching to closed loop and tuning it as it is far better. Also what firmware are you on on the MS3? You should get into 1.4.x at least if you are below that.

It's closed loop idle. I think it is 1.4.3, but not sure.

Need to tune more before anything else.

Edit: Version 1.3.4

Issue. A/C compressor and fan cycles on and off every couple of seconds when blower fan is on 4. Cycles normally with interior blower on 3. Not sure why.

Separate logs of idling with blower fan on 3 and blower fan on 4 attached.

You still on 1.3.4 firmware? I would suggest upgrading to 1.4.1. Besides having much better EBC code, I think their AC code is a little bit more refined also.

Where/how do I do that? The only website I know for MS Labs is... sparse... to say the least. There should be a download page for this stuff somewhere but his posts all seem to refer to having it emailed ???

So you can put whatever firmware you want on Rev's ecu's, but you use his 'programming'. You should reach out to him to see what his newest firmware is!

He doesn't use custom firmware for his MS3 units. The biggest difference in MS Labs units is his hardware, the software is identical.

Oh awesome. That was just the MS2 Enhanced then, eh? Cool.

Six, just be warned that some of the engine state stuff on 1.5 is... interesting. There's not a ton of familiarity on here with it, but it would be pretty awesome if you got good at it because your tuning posts over time have been pretty great!

Oh, sure. Make me the guinea pig.

The A/C behaving differently between blower speed 3 and 4 may or may not be ECU related. I'm not sure why it kicks out at the higher fan setting. It doesn't appear to be a voltage drop problem.

Haha well I inadvertently updated mine when I first got my megasquirt so... Yeah. There's a reason I've had a harder time getting going. The engine state stuff is cool, but I'm not sure why they wouldn't make it an option instead of a necessity. Things worked fine for everyone before that was in the foreground!

^^ This.

You might consider Brain's basemaps from Trubokitty.com, though you may already be happy with your VE and Ignition maps.

I don't remember how he has the Idle timing correction set up. I am quite happy with running 10* idle advance, and a very aggressive correction curve. That way, when your A/C comes on, if you have a 200 RPM adder set, the MS immediately sees the RPM as 200 low and pumps up the timing. So, in that case, it is anticipatory, rather than after-the-fact correction.

I can't recall which threat it was for someone else talking about Cooling and I mention the air going up into the bumper mouth in addition to the air moving forward into the bumper mouth. Here's another picture.

I did a thing. I exchanged my 949racing hybrid mounts for a blackbird fabrication Street set up. The Blackbird setup is much tighter and offers a fair amount more resonance but I really needed tighter with the horsepower and torque that I'm producing.

time to put the beer down :giggle:

Thank goodness, I was hoping that wasn't just me :giggle:

Referring to bytevenoms thread about bumper cuts and hood vents?

Where can I find specs on these " blackbird fabrication Street " engine mounts you are talking about? I can't find them on the @Blackbird website, is it a discontinued product? As far as I can tell all they sell is a ND rollbar.

Lern 2 serch noob. :giggle:

https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-mounts-89332/

Moti's site is useless. He has lots of products that are cool, but you have to follow on the forums and facebook and basically keep your own spreadsheet to keep on top of things. No idea why he hasn't fixed that.

I talk, it typestypos. I'll go back and fix that.

I did search, the website, the logical place to find an inventory of parts for available from a given vendor. Is this not how the internet works anymore?

Six, when you get these installed please report findings. :bigtu:

Shit's tight, yo. Or whatever the Millennials say. And a little vibratey. Going to have to take some silicone and glue a few things to each other so they don't buzz and squeak. But the engine is not going to fall out and the shifter stays put which is the point.

For me the vibrations went down quite a bit after about 1000 miles. Still have some rattle hunting to do, it is a NA after all, but I'm no longer self-conscious at stoplights with the top down.

I don't street drive it much. I've street driven it more lately since I couldn't track drive last year because of the vertigo. All of my buddies are screwing off and not ready to go to the track yet and track season starts next month so I'm left with...

I hate to go to the track alone. It's about sharing the experience.

I prefer to say building as opposed to screwing off...though there is some of that in there too.

Some are building cars faster than others. Ryan G's nearly ready but his EFR won't stop puking oil so it is an unknown quantity. Yours is making big progress but has months of work ahead of it. Troy's car looks totally stripped just like it did 3 years ago. Gary's bare body GT-R just got subframes installed and is going back to Mazworx for major surgery so it is still way off.

Meanwhile, I got tired of waiting for Singular or Sadfab or someone on this forum to make 3D printed inlets for the GV lip and found someone who was already making them.
I made an Etsy account to order them from https://www.etsy.com/listing/4686491..._home_active_1.

Works with a 2.5 inch hose so I will likely get the Singular kit.

https://img0.etsystatic.com/128/0/13...58214_temv.jpg

https://img1.etsystatic.com/168/0/13...39295_qunx.jpg

https://img1.etsystatic.com/120/0/13...87079_5hd0.jpg

I'll report on quality, fitment, and take pictures when they arrive.

:bowrofl:

Thanks for the good laugh!

I got a thing or two. Looks like this. Seems sturdy and looks nice. This is the "shiny" finish, in case anyone is curious.

I am a little surprised you bought something instead of shoving old vacuum cleaner attachments into those holes. If you keep doing this you are going to have to repaint the car eventually.

Initially considered vacuum cleaner nozzle. Only had one from old eureka. Purchasing spare eureka would be more expensive but would have spare vacuum to show for it. Some benefit there. But time required to modify could be better spent criticizing people who couldn't find oil leaks preventing them from doing track days. :rolleyes:

Brake duct nozzles installed.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...917_174312.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...917_174333.jpg

My homemade undertray setup was wider and lower than stock and had to be trimmed a little.

Singular 2.5in clamshells were ordered last week and should be in soon.

watching this brake ducting project with interest.

Just signed up for Daytona on Sunday, Dec 10, single day with MVP Track Time.

MVP Track Time

Brake ducts installed. Pretty nice stuff.

Daytona was canceled by the organizers so I went to Road Atlanta for the NASA Southeast Region Toy Run.

Lots of wrecks on Saturday. It was my first track day in a year and a half and the first time at RA in 5 years. I'm still not 100% on balance and coordination so I don't trust myself or the car. Needless to say I was careful and slow. I just don't have the guts to push it.

Last time I went to a track I was running 13-15 psi. Now I have 21ish.
This allows me to hide poor driving skill behind the extra horses. It also means I am tripping the high oil temp alarm occasionally. Needs more hood vents and such I guess. Always something to tinker with.



It was almost over when it was red flagged.

My brakes were hot when they stopped us on track and after a couple of minutes the pedal went soft when the fluid finally boiled. I tried to let the car roll a little so the pads wouldn't cook to the rotor or crack the rotor. I ended up waiting for a flatbed rather than taking a chance on having brakes when they waved us in.

I'm just quoting for honesty, sensibility and the very reason you get to drive your car home from events. ;) Now fix your video! :D

Looks good! Still have AC huh? Must be nice :pitlab:

did your brake ducting not help much? inquiring minds want to know.

I don't have any back to back testing.
My brakes didn't fade, but they weren't fading previously. I am also making a lot more power than I was before the ducting was added, so I've changed several things at once.

The only real problem I had was with the red flag causing me to have to stop hot without a cool-down lap and it heat soaked the calipers and boiled the fluid. I bled the brakes again after that and went back out with no problems.

What did the official see to cause him to red flag you?

The red flag was for all the cars to stop because of a wreck. Emergency vehicles needed to get on the track. If there was a problem with just my car they would have given me the black flag.

Red flag is an entire course stop. There was probably an accident that required emergency vehicles to be parked on the track.

This was said red flag event. I didn't get to see it transpire, because stock miata, but came across T9 right after it happened. Driver was OK, car... not so much.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...754b87f429.jpg

Derp a derp. Of course

Drove on the paint in outside of turn 5 several times on Saturday. Apparently it is different when the paint is wet. Soiled my drawers.


I waved by a lot of braver souls than me this weekend, especially when the track was damp first thing Sunday.

It makes keeping the car cool on the track a lot tougher. But the car would be parked 6 months out of the year if I didn't have it. Not that I drive it a whole lot on the street. Trade offs and such.

My Chin instructor warned me of the evils of the paint in Turn 5. I believe he'd written off a car in the past there.

Nice catch. Bet that woke you up.

Yep- on a wet T5 I keep the wheels straight, drive straight across the paint to the cut through and then turn on the cut through asphalt. Sounds whacked, but it minimize lateral load on the paint and allows for more speed through the turn. Of course this is racing- otherwise I just stay away from it.

I think you need to pull more Gs in the turns/braking- that dime on your center console never moved. ;) Otherwise a lot of your group could learn something from your line.

My line? I was Helen Keller!

And the dime is the sticky mount for Hula Kitty:

Dude- the guys in your camera were missing apexes by over a car width, not to mention being on the wrong side of the track in odd places. Your line at least had reason. It looked to me like you had a clue. I always told my students to drive a fast line regardless how slow you are now, so that then you only need to add speed. I knew that wasn't a dime. :D

@ 5:08 I suppose you are referring. Completely let go of wheel and let car correct itself? Nice catch.

The front wheels were initially slipping somewhat like the rear. When they hit blacktop they were trying to correct themselves faster than I could move so I let them have it. If I had held on to it I would have finished spinning and dented a pretty red NB and an S2000. Much credit goes to the fact that it goes from paint back to blacktop and stuck the back end again and swung it back in. Weird feeling going from grip to nothing to grip again.

and then poo came out? :rofl:

Any particular reasoning behind your hand shuffling?