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In Soviet Russia car build YOU!

Old Jan 28, 2013 | 01:47 PM
  #1041  
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Originally Posted by TorqueZombie
Per their instructions
Got more pics of the Ex Mani?


Soviet, how goes the repairs? I think I bought a junk yard a-arm back in the day, it was not spendy at all. I'd overtorqued it and stripped out the threads.
Old Jan 28, 2013 | 02:06 PM
  #1042  
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The car is at my parents place, I'll go there tonight, look at the damage and take the busted wheel off so I can remount the tire.

I have a whole rear subframe assembly with all control arms and everything from my parts car, lol. Ideally I'll just have to swap both control arms, press out/press in poly bushings and re-align the car. Everything on the car is new (e.g. has been disassembled within a year) so taking apart the rear suspension should be cake.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 01:24 PM
  #1043  
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Well, after only three days of no work and only staring at the lap top I finally made it to the end of this ******* thread!
Soviet, You have inspired me. I ordered a new EFR6258 and it is on the way! I hope to have similar sucess as you.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 01:32 PM
  #1044  
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winning post.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 02:10 PM
  #1045  
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Wow. Did he just buy a brand new version of the turbo you are selling brand new? Maybe I'm forgetting the sizes, but what a lot of gratitude. :-)
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 02:16 PM
  #1046  
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I did. I tried to work out a deal on his, even asked him to call me after several emails. I had some concerns about his and while waiting for an answer I got offered a NIB turbo for only a little more than he wanted for his reworked turbo. I really wanted his and hope there are no hard feelings. I think Soviet has lead the way for us and thank him. I plan to drive up there and take him out for a beer to show gratitude.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #1047  
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His turbo is not reworked. It is a brand new replacement from BW to cover the failure he had before.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 02:21 PM
  #1048  
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Look guys, I have my reasons for not buying his. Out of respect for Soviet I am not going to go into detail. The point here is he did a great job on his build and I aspire to be like him! I think when you read my build thread it be similar to his. Lets keep the OP in mind.
GREAT JOB Soviet!!!
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 02:32 PM
  #1049  
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you can drive up here and buy me root beer for dowry.
Old Feb 16, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #1050  
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I will! And will pick your brain Brain....lol
Old May 14, 2013 | 06:27 PM
  #1051  
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to bring this thread back up.

Car is still on jackstands at my parents house, but mostly assembled. I replaced the subframe with one I had in my garage because I apparently bent it. So that took forever. Also found out I've been driving without an axle seal for a year. Woops. Nothing bad happend, though. But for the sake of keeping my sanity I took the diff cover off and checked it out.

After all that fail I figured some winning was in order. So I bought an M-tuned fuel rail and Fuelab 545 FPR. Both should be arriving soon.

The reason for the fuel mods is that I want to run E85. Not necessary for more power, but just for more safety and... why not?

There are 2 things I haven't finalized about the fuel system.
1) Hose. I want reliability and hence want to use hose actually meant for E85. Originally i was going to use PTFE-lined hose, like Aeroquip TFE (Sav's suggestion). Then, recently, I found out that Mocal makes lightweight, E85 specific hose -
Fuel Hose for Ethanol Based Fuels - Mocal Fuel Hose for Ethanol based fuels
http://97.74.32.155/files/lwhose.pdf

Part # is AHL-6F, cost is ~$8 per foot. Expensive but can be used with regular fittings vs PTFE-specific fittings. Also light and bendy.
Fuel specific hose designed to handle modern fuels and high fuel system pressures. Hose incorporates a synthetic Flourelastomer liner making it compatible with racing fuels as well as ethanol based fuels (E85 and higher percentages), diesel/bio-diesel. Incorporated liner protects against hose deterioration that leads to fuel permeation (gas smell) and dry hardened hose. Hose is finished in an attractive black nylon braid with
blue trace.

2) Fuel line routing. The M-tuned fuel rail is dual feed. But IMO dual feed is not necessary at all, especially with bore 250% bigger than stock fuel rail. So I'm thinking instead of Y-fitting bullshit... inlet on one side, outlet on the other and block the FPR hole. Less leak points, less hose, less fittings. Yay? Any thoughts?
Old May 14, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #1052  
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1 I'm planning on using the AN fittings direct hose and fittings for my setup, I want to see how good they really are. I wish there was a company with a ptfe hose with a kevlar or nylon braid that was for standard ANs not push locs and didnt cost like $22/foot, but I couldnt find anything. Looks like the mocal might be using something like ptfe in theirs as they keep saying Flourelastomer (which also describes ptfe).

2 Mine goes in the front and out the back to the fuel rail. You can plug the fuel regulator port on the rail with a 1/4 npt.
Old May 14, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #1053  
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Leonid I don't know that I'd want the fuel rail to be a high-flow area like that - that will decrease your effective pressure in the rail, since it's flowing. Also who knows what turbulent eddies and whatnot will exist in the rail which could further possibly affect your pressure at the injectors.

I would single-feed it from one end, cap the other end, and run the FPR as designed if you want to run it as single feed.

Edit: or maybe it will be fine. Someone with more knowledge or experience chime in. If it were my car those would be my concerns.
Old May 14, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #1054  
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I wouldn't to too concerned with it. The main purpose of going to the m tuned rail is that it makes it easier and cleaner to go to an FPR and also to switch to AN lines if you want. The difference between going out the stock FPR location on the rail and going out the end is ~ 3 inches and going out the FPR location is hard/impossible to do with a 99+ intake manifold.

Sov, you're likely going to have to file/grind a good bit off that rail to make it fit the 99+ head. Wait, do you even have a 99+ head I forget?
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:31 PM
  #1055  
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I think M-tuned is aware of the problem since my rail came and was obviously modified after the anodize. I have not checked it for fit but it sure looks like it was clearanced to fit the NB head.....
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:35 PM
  #1056  
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Originally Posted by Amellrotts
I think M-tuned is aware of the problem since my rail came and was obviously modified after the anodize. I have not checked it for fit but it sure looks like it was clearanced to fit the NB head.....
I bought mine the end of July last year and it needed significant notching. NBD just 20 minutes with the hand file.
Old May 14, 2013 | 08:41 PM
  #1057  
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yeah, mine was sourced last month and it had minor modification so maybe we will have to work it some more? Hopefully I can get my head back tomorrow and find out!
Old May 15, 2013 | 01:24 PM
  #1058  
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Originally Posted by soviet
2) Fuel line routing. The M-tuned fuel rail is dual feed. But IMO dual feed is not necessary at all, especially with bore 250% bigger than stock fuel rail. So I'm thinking instead of Y-fitting bullshit... inlet on one side, outlet on the other and block the FPR hole. Less leak points, less hose, less fittings. Yay? Any thoughts?
Not many thoughts other than I was thinking of doing the same - it seems an easy way to accomplish what needs to be accomplished. Obviously there will be fewer problems with "single feed" woes, meaning, the last port shouldn't get starved with that kind of flow behind it. If nothing else, you have the full fury of the fuel pump replacing missing fuel before the regulator even knows its gone. You could argue that there isn't enough back pressure from the regulator at that point but I think it's sort of pointless. Go with it, and tell me it's as awesome as I was planning on.
Old May 15, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #1059  
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Originally Posted by Leafy
1 I'm planning on using the AN fittings direct hose and fittings for my setup, I want to see how good they really are. I wish there was a company with a ptfe hose with a kevlar or nylon braid that was for standard ANs not push locs and didnt cost like $22/foot, but I couldnt find anything. Looks like the mocal might be using something like ptfe in theirs as they keep saying Flourelastomer (which also describes ptfe).

2 Mine goes in the front and out the back to the fuel rail. You can plug the fuel regulator port on the rail with a 1/4 npt.
I was thinking about "AN Fittings Direct" but I read that they suck. They are reasonably priced and pretty, though. With the MOCAL hose I can use regular fittings, which is what I like. The Flourelastomer is just a layer in the rubber hose and is what OEMs use in their E85/Biodiesel fuel hose - http://www.gates.com/oreilly/PDFs/Fuel%20Systems.pdf

Originally Posted by Leafy
Sov, you're likely going to have to file/grind a good bit off that rail to make it fit the 99+ head. Wait, do you even have a 99+ head I forget?
Yeah, well aware about that. I bought it used. I'm not worried about "fuel flowing too fast". That's the FRPs job, hehe. I do have a 99 head. I also have a VVT head sitting around but I never got around to building it.

Originally Posted by AbeFM
Not many thoughts other than I was thinking of doing the same - it seems an easy way to accomplish what needs to be accomplished. Obviously there will be fewer problems with "single feed" woes, meaning, the last port shouldn't get starved with that kind of flow behind it. If nothing else, you have the full fury of the fuel pump replacing missing fuel before the regulator even knows its gone. You could argue that there isn't enough back pressure from the regulator at that point but I think it's sort of pointless. Go with it, and tell me it's as awesome as I was planning on.
Yep.
It's also how fuel rails are done on just about any V8 engine.
Old May 15, 2013 | 01:33 PM
  #1060  
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Where do you expect to buy e85?

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